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DBain

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Posts posted by DBain

  1. I’ve use Hemptique (Dark Brown and Earthy) 1mm 20lb hemp cord off of the big river site.  I did a quick epoxy soak then whipped off as much as I could as I was wrapping. 

  2. A few years ago I read a short article that explained the craftsman’s opportunity to be a bladesmith / blacksmith in today’s world.  I was reading several different forums at the time so it may have originated here or elsewhere. I’d love to find it again. 

    Im going butcher it but I think I can get the heart of it across.

     

    “” “”It begins stating that since the beginning of man’s time man has strived for an easier more efficient way of doing things/making things.  Now for the first time in history life is so easy craftsmen can seek out and revive the old ways of doing. “” “”

    If this rings a bell with anyone and you know where it originated from please let me know. If this is a butchering of your quote, forgive me but please correct me.

    Thank You

  3. After talking to and taking the advice of a an experienced smith, whom I’ve taken a couple of classes with, I did minimal forging to shape and more stock removal on these. I’d say forged to about 60%, just a general profile and tang with slight bevels.

  4. Sadly yes, sort of. The pin hole was drilled in the tang correctly but I gouged the scales and had to grind out quite a bit of material under the front pin. 

    Also had some etching issues, my typical jar wouldn’t accommodate the knife so I foolishly tried to insert and etch then flip and etch the other side which resulted in a pretty substantial overlap line. I cleaned it up but not as good as I should have. I ended up pouring my etchant in a shallow pan and laid the blade down in it which worked but I should have had a better plan. 

    Im thinking about trying some aluminum black on the pins I don’t like the way they clash.

  5. My first attempt at multi layer Damascus, I chose low layer twist on a modified cleaver. 
    15 layers of 1084 and 15n20 dry welded by hand and a homemade press with a 20ton air/hydraulic jack. I got down to 1.5” square then cut my end off to check the welds.
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    I BBQ quite a bit and wanted a cleaver shaped blade to slice with. I welded and forged out a billets my shop, then went to a hammer in hosted by DanGraves to pick his brain and use some of his toys to do the real work. Handle is Buckeye Burl that I picked up at the Arkansas Knife Show. OAL is just shy of 14” and a cutting edge of 8.5”. I made some mistakes along the way but am pleased with where I ended up. IIRC this is knife 21 for me.
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    It sliced a brisket and ham Easter Sunday like a champ.
    • Like 4
  6. First San Mai is dry welded hand forged 15n20 core and 1084 jacket. OAL is approximately 8.5” with a stag and quarter mokume handle. It has a threaded butt cap nut and GFlex epoxy.

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    Second San Mai is dry welded and hand forged 1084 core with 15n20 jacket. OAL is approximately 14”.  The handle is stacked Ebony and leather with a wrought guard and pommel. The pommel was tapped for threaded and GFlex epoxy construction.

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    • Like 3
  7. I’ve searched here and elsewhere and haven’t seen much of an explanation.

     I have s friend who wanted a skinner made out of a piece of cable from a job he worked.  Relatively small cable about 7/8” lifting sling, but a skinner is fairly small so I banged one out for him. 

    My question is since ( I presume) all of the strands are made of the same steel why  is there a distinction between strands?  Why can you see the end cuts where I ground the bevels? Why wouldn’t it be homogeneous? Now my knife looks like every other cable steel knife out there and that’s what I was going for but I’m having a time understanding why the strands show individually. 

    Is it due to the environmental conditions the cable was exposed to, or elemental changes that took place during the forging process. 

    Similarly if I took a stack of a dozen pieces of 15n20 and forge welded them together then forged a knife , ground, heat treated, sanded, and etched it would it show a pattern?

  8. I followed similar steps that were in Ron’s linked video.  I cleaned the quarters with lighter fluid prior to welding. I made a clamp to hold my stack together in the forge. It’s 2 pieces of 3/8” flatbar 1 1/2x4” with 1/2” holes near the ends. I place my stack of quarters in ($6-$8 worth) and tighten down on my bolts to clamp everything in place. Toss it in the forge and wait a minute or two until I just begin to see them start sweating. I’ll pull the device out and give it a couple sharp blows with a 2lb hammer then retighten my bolts and repeat one more time. After two cycles it’s solid and I forge it do shape or thickness as desired. 

     

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  9. Twisting at the proper heat without tearing the billet is my concern. I have a heavy vice and a solid work table. 

    I am going to a hammer in this weekend and am trying to get ahead as much as I can but certainly don’t want to take 5 steps back. I’ll touch base with the shop owner and see how he feels about twisting it there.

  10. This will be my first attempt at pattern welded steel. I’ve made a few SanMai blades with good success. I’m using 15 layers total of 1084 & 15n20. My original stack was 5”L x 1.25”W x 3”H. I welded it up and forged it down to 8”L x 1.5”W x 1.5”H, then crushed in the corners to take the edges off. 

    Now the twist... is it reasonable to expect to be able to put 3 or 4 twists in this 1.5” billet by hand ?  I’m wanting to forge a cleaver or modified cleaver so I don’t want to take the billet down any smaller than I have to.

     

  11. For some reason I am doing my first hidden tang knives as a batch of 3. 

    2 of which are my first attempts at forging San Mai billets. 

    I also want to use wrought iron for the fittings on 2 and mokume fittings for the other.

     

    Current status I'm ready to start working with the wrought iron(first time touching the stuff). Can I simply shape by stock removal? Should it be annealed? Should it be heat treated in some fashion to show a pattern when etched?

    Almost everything I can find to read up on working with wrought pertains to identifying it and expressing how hot you need to work it if you are forging it.

  12. I have this insane idea to make a folder as well, I plan on cheating though. I got my son a wooden kit knife and I will attempt to replicate the parts and assemble them into some sort of folding cutting something or another.

    • Like 1
  13. Here are 3 simple knives I banged out as Christmas gifts to my 3 nephews. 1084 steel from Aldo with Kirinite scales. They measure 7" - 7 1/2" and approximately 1/8" at the spine. These were forged then finish ground on my hobbled together 2x72 grinder(first knives I've finished with this grinder). On the orange handled knife I forgot to progress through my Gator belts before I did a little hand sanding to 400 and it shows. Sadly I had to mail it out as is to reach him in time for Christmas. I am still working on the other 2 as I will see those nephews on Christmas Eve. 
    These are knives 13,14,15 for me. Any comments, tips, or criticism will be appreciated.
     
     

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