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Matt Behnke

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  1. Just ordered some 3/16 from Aldo. I decided to go 3/16 for both chefs and hunters. I think with both, I could get some nice distal tapers that will enhance feel and aesthetics.
  2. Hi All, Placing an order for some knife steel today. Generally, I forge hunters from 1x1/8" 1084. I am thinking about trying 5/32" for ease of forging on the next run. I am also looking at getting into kitchen knives, but am not sure what starting stock to get? I know material reduction guys generally use some thin stock, but for forging I probably can't go under 1/8" thick. Considering the length of an average chef, I am consider 5/32" to reduce warping issues. Maybe 5/32 x 1-1/4? Thanks
  3. Matt Behnke

    NESM Classes

    Hi All, I am very interested in progressing my bladesmith skills to the next level. I have been forging for about 6 years now, and blades for about the last 2-3. I can forge a blade fairly well to shape, but I struggle with grinding and fit and finish. I saw the NESM has many bladesmithing classes to offer. They have the 2 week ABS intro, and also shorter ones. I was thinking about taking a intermediate bladesmithing course with MS Zack Jonas at the school, as I feel the class would help my fit and finish skills, and might be a little more advanced than the ABS intro. I was curious if taking these classes was worth it, or could I just learn the skills I'm looking for on my own overtime? I joined the ABS this year, and was under the impression that being part of this guild, if thats what you would call it, would be a way for me to improve the craftsmanship of my work. After reaching out to many of the Mastersmiths near me in NJ, asking if I could come by and observe them in the shop one day, none have gotten back to me. I kinda find it counterproductive to be paying to be a member of the ABS, then paying to take an ABS level course at the NESM. Besides receiving the title of JS or MS, I am having a hard time figuring out the perks of being a member of the ABS. Granted, I am sure there are plenty of smiths out there who are more than open to sharing tips and tricks to those less experienced, such as on here, but when I paid my dues I thought I would be able to find a Master to pass down some skills.
  4. Put the tape in the center of the wheels? Ill have to give it a go, don't got anything to lose at this point. Thanks
  5. Awesome blade! Do you use a file guide for your shoulders or plunges at all? And whats up with that little shim you put in the handle to go around the tang?
  6. Hi All, I am sure you guys get a bunch of these threads, but here it goes. I made a new 2x72 grinder, after using my no weld grinder for a couple years. The tracking was off on it, and my fab skills weren't so great at the time that I made it. I decided that since I am a lot better at fabing stuff, considering thats what I do at work, I would make a new grinder. I was very careful when welding the new frame, checking every thing constantly with a level for square, tacking all corners, and welding everything clamped in a vise to eliminate warping out of alignment. The square tubing for the frame was 3/16 wall, and I removed the weld seam to make it is a snug fit to the tool arm. The issue I am having is that the belt doesn't seem to be running properly. I can get all wheels to align with one another, except the tracking and drive wheel. If I move the drive wheel to align with the tracking, everything else goes out of wack. But even with that misalignment, the grinder runs fairly well. The belt tracks good, however it seems to be running on a diagonal to the platen. The picture might be hard to see, but the belt runs in an almost twisted fashion on the flat platen. Any ideas what might be causing this? My guess was that the platen was twisted, but after cutting after removing and remounting, the issue remained. I tried shimming the lower idler out further to compensate, but had no luck. The wheels should be square with each other on the platen any ways. In addition, after running the grinder with the slight misalignment issue, the bearing on the top idler seized. Given these were cheaper wheels from my previous grinder off ebay, I guess I can say I got my moneys worth. So I know this is a mouthful, but what do you guys think. I am probably best off buying a new set of wheels at this point, which is going to cost me $100 for idlers and probably twice that for all four. At that cost, I am thinking maybe I would be best off buying a new grinder or frame altogether. I love making my own tooling, but I guess there is a time to say when. Is my alignment issue with the grinder a simple fix, or should I just consider a better grinder. Thanks! All the best
  7. Hi, I would like to build a basic treadle hammer, like shown, to use for making hammers and axes with top tooling when I don’t have a striker. Do treadles work to give a lot of force like of having a striker, or should I look to build something else? Thanks
  8. My wheels are already crowned, not sure if that makes a difference. I thought the tracking wheel looked to be a bit crooked, maybe I should straighten it more
  9. Hi, I built a no weld belt grinder, and so far there are no major issue with it. The one issue I do have is that when the belt is just running normal, it runs fine. There is a slight wobble back and forth, but then again I didn't spend a thousand bucks on a KMG. However, to get the belt to run on track I need to adjust the tracking wheel pretty high up. Also, when I put a decent amount of pressure on the object I am grinding, the belt tracks off to the right and almost comes off. Is this a wheel alignment issue? Could the issue be that my tracking wheel isn't perfectly in line with the other wheels, and thatmaybe it goes crooked? Thanks!
  10. Well that stinks. Good thing I got an old compressor we are trashing, I will just take the motor off that and make sure to blow it out after each use. One thing I have a question about is what's the best way to ensure proper tension is put on the drive belt? I know that the motors plate has a slide, but even so is that tight enough? Should I try a hinge set up where the motor weight keeps tension?
  11. Hi, I finished my no weld grinder, and from what I can tell it tracks fine. This was using a motor that I have, but it wasn't going very fast. The motor is a single speed 1 horse Baldour industrial, which seems to be old. I wired it up and the thing runs, but is very loud. I put it on my grinder, but it doesn't move the belt very fast despite it is 1725 rpm. And once I put a piece f wood against the belt the thing bogged down. After a couple minutes of running, the motor started to smoke, and the wire got very hot. Not only did the wire get hot, but so did the pulleys, drive belt, and the shaft. the motor also began to smoke, and that's when I stopped. Do you think this moor is shot? Thanks
  12. Yep, thats the only thing i know how to do too lol! My friends dad is an electrician so he might know.
  13. Its a 115/230. So I wired it up for 115. I have no idea, maybe my connection of a power cable to the motor isn't tight enough?
  14. Hi, I am building a belt grinder, and my buddy gave me an old 1HP Baldar Industrial motor. I wired the thing up with an old plug I had, and it does run what seems to be fine. However, it is very loud. It's a loud hum type of noise that only happens when the motor is plugged in. Once i unplug it, the noise goes away and the shaft continues to spin before it stops. Due to this I know that the noise must be coming from an electrical issue. Any tips on what to do? Thanks
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