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Matt Behnke

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  1. Just ordered some 3/16 from Aldo. I decided to go 3/16 for both chefs and hunters. I think with both, I could get some nice distal tapers that will enhance feel and aesthetics.
  2. Hi All, Placing an order for some knife steel today. Generally, I forge hunters from 1x1/8" 1084. I am thinking about trying 5/32" for ease of forging on the next run. I am also looking at getting into kitchen knives, but am not sure what starting stock to get? I know material reduction guys generally use some thin stock, but for forging I probably can't go under 1/8" thick. Considering the length of an average chef, I am consider 5/32" to reduce warping issues. Maybe 5/32 x 1-1/4? Thanks
  3. Hi All, I am very interested in progressing my bladesmith skills to the next level. I have been forging for about 6 years now, and blades for about the last 2-3. I can forge a blade fairly well to shape, but I struggle with grinding and fit and finish. I saw the NESM has many bladesmithing classes to offer. They have the 2 week ABS intro, and also shorter ones. I was thinking about taking a intermediate bladesmithing course with MS Zack Jonas at the school, as I feel the class would help my fit and finish skills, and might be a little more advanced than the ABS intro.
  4. Put the tape in the center of the wheels? Ill have to give it a go, don't got anything to lose at this point. Thanks
  5. Awesome blade! Do you use a file guide for your shoulders or plunges at all? And whats up with that little shim you put in the handle to go around the tang?
  6. Hi All, I am sure you guys get a bunch of these threads, but here it goes. I made a new 2x72 grinder, after using my no weld grinder for a couple years. The tracking was off on it, and my fab skills weren't so great at the time that I made it. I decided that since I am a lot better at fabing stuff, considering thats what I do at work, I would make a new grinder. I was very careful when welding the new frame, checking every thing constantly with a level for square, tacking all corners, and welding everything clamped in a vise to eliminate warping out of alignment. The
  7. Hi, I would like to build a basic treadle hammer, like shown, to use for making hammers and axes with top tooling when I don’t have a striker. Do treadles work to give a lot of force like of having a striker, or should I look to build something else? Thanks
  8. My wheels are already crowned, not sure if that makes a difference. I thought the tracking wheel looked to be a bit crooked, maybe I should straighten it more
  9. Hi, I built a no weld belt grinder, and so far there are no major issue with it. The one issue I do have is that when the belt is just running normal, it runs fine. There is a slight wobble back and forth, but then again I didn't spend a thousand bucks on a KMG. However, to get the belt to run on track I need to adjust the tracking wheel pretty high up. Also, when I put a decent amount of pressure on the object I am grinding, the belt tracks off to the right and almost comes off. Is this a wheel alignment issue? Could the issue be that my tracking wheel isn't perfectly in line with the
  10. Well that stinks. Good thing I got an old compressor we are trashing, I will just take the motor off that and make sure to blow it out after each use. One thing I have a question about is what's the best way to ensure proper tension is put on the drive belt? I know that the motors plate has a slide, but even so is that tight enough? Should I try a hinge set up where the motor weight keeps tension?
  11. Hi, I finished my no weld grinder, and from what I can tell it tracks fine. This was using a motor that I have, but it wasn't going very fast. The motor is a single speed 1 horse Baldour industrial, which seems to be old. I wired it up and the thing runs, but is very loud. I put it on my grinder, but it doesn't move the belt very fast despite it is 1725 rpm. And once I put a piece f wood against the belt the thing bogged down. After a couple minutes of running, the motor started to smoke, and the wire got very hot. Not only did the wire get hot, but so did the pulleys, drive belt, and t
  12. Yep, thats the only thing i know how to do too lol! My friends dad is an electrician so he might know.
  13. Its a 115/230. So I wired it up for 115. I have no idea, maybe my connection of a power cable to the motor isn't tight enough?
  14. Hi, I am building a belt grinder, and my buddy gave me an old 1HP Baldar Industrial motor. I wired the thing up with an old plug I had, and it does run what seems to be fine. However, it is very loud. It's a loud hum type of noise that only happens when the motor is plugged in. Once i unplug it, the noise goes away and the shaft continues to spin before it stops. Due to this I know that the noise must be coming from an electrical issue. Any tips on what to do? Thanks
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