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Caleb Budd

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Caleb Budd last won the day on July 8 2020

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About Caleb Budd

  • Birthday June 28

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    History, bladesmithing

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  1. This thread has been a wealth of information and I’m wanting to revive it because I’m gonna be doing my own experiment with the process on a full length pattern welded sword. Currently I have my middle bar at about 5/16” and my edge bars at 1/2”. My plan right now is to forge the middle “fuller” bar to the length of the blade fish mouth it then weld the edge bars I’m wondering if anyone has further continued with this way of forging in fullers and if they have any pointers to give on the process.
  2. This year I decided to ramp up my knife production and with the help of my blacksmith friend Michael Bergstrom also try my hand at some commission work. I'm currently beating my usual blade production of 1 knife every few months to about 1 blade a month with room for improvement . The Seax was inspired by anglo saxon broken backs and is comprised of a body of wrought iron I had bought that came from a civil war era ship link. The edge was a flat bar of 1095. The blade measures around 7" with a tang just under 4" and has been shipped off to the customer for hilting. The Birka was a twist cutoff piece from my first multi bar seax I had forged, with a little more twisting to help show the pattern better. That blade ended up at 4" with a 3" tang and was sent to Michael to put on a handle. Hope you'll like the blades! Any comments or critiques are also greatly appreciated!
  3. This is my first adventure into the world of multi billet pattern welding, and I expect not my last. The layers are as follow, for the spine it is some wrought iron gifted to me by a friend for this specific project, the middle is about 10 layers of 15n20 and 1084 twist and the edge bar is some wonderful W2 gifted to me by Dave Stephens. The construction may be new to me but I picked a familiar style for the blade, that being the seax. With a rough idea of wanting to do a Frankish narrow seax I set to work, the photos follow the the basic outline of my steps. First getting all the pieces tig welded together then actually forge welding them, next the blade was roughed out (bottom) and lastly the most recent shot of a test etch done on it by my friend and collaborator Michael Bergstrom. The blade has already been handed off to him in preparation for him starting the handle. I hope y'll enjoy it! and I can't wait to be posting photos when they get in of the handle.
  4. Thank you Alan! Thank you Zeb spent a lot of time making sure it looked that way so that is definitely great to hear! Thank you Doug, and I too love how the birds eye turned out! Going to have to use more in the future Thank you Jeroen I know you saw the finished product on the Facebook page but I don't think you ever saw the starting piece!
  5. Due to some personal problems and forge problems this is my first completed knife in almost a year. It took me a few months of off and on work but I am very happy to have it completed and I really hope you all appreciate it as much as I do. But as always any feedback is greatly welcome and appreciated! I include in progress pics to show the journey this knife and I took from forge to finish. Special thanks as well to Collin Miller for helping me along with this knife and pushing me to make sure I finish this right! OAL 13.5" Blade length 7.5" Handle Material African blackwood and Birds eye maple Fresh out of the forge with a couple of other projects I was working on at the time Initial cleanup of the blade with an angle grinder then an 80 grit flap disc Reshaped the seax then hand sanded the blade, had to redo it after making the flats more aggressive and sharper Getting the handle fitted up and glued Final piece this has been my best knife so far and it has been an amazing teaching moment for me in patience and having the determination to do it right even when it may seem hard. I have an immense pride in this knife and though it doesn't hold a candle to a lot of the knives posted here I hope you all can appreciate it as much as I do.
  6. Great work as usual Ibor, I do have a question. Did you use a mandrel for the socket forming or did you freehand it?
  7. GEzell thank you for explaining that so simply! Also yes the tang on that other blade is huge! Almost to where I don't know where the transition is .
  8. GEzell that is a fantastic langsax! I love the elegance and deadliness it exudes! I do have a question though, with such a wide tang what keeps the wood from just splitting? is it just the wire? and wouldn't it be a better idea to have a thinner width-wise tang?
  9. Darn ok, thanks for the help nonetheless Alan!
  10. Darn, I don't know what the hole on the other side was for I got it like that. Anything you think I could do with it, Alan?
  11. Reviving the thread for the same exact question. I got some round stock and wanted to know if it might be wrought. It has some interesting things going on in the flat and thought it might be like the grain on wrought.
  12. C Craft, I've checked them out and the shipping ain't bad enough (coming from an Alaskan which all shipping is expensive). I really want to buy their sample pack but I haven't gotten up the courage yet to spend the money.
  13. Yea, I wish there was a reliable source Of wrought iron up here in Alaska. The only piece I've been able to get is some from a gold mine.
  14. What?!?! I can't just ask my local merchant for some double refined anchor chain? What has this world come to. On a more serious note, thank you Alan for answering that! Especially that last bit. The wrought I've been working has a nasty tendency to split quite easily, so I wanted to know at what point should it be refined.
  15. Thank you Al for that easy explanation! Follow up question if you wouldn't mind Alan, what quality wrought should one strive for when including it in a billet. To keep the pattern but also have a good structure?
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