Jason McEntee

I've been very happy with them. I'm not cranking out a ton of blades, but that said, I typically place only one order a year; two each in 1/8" and 3/16". Oh, and I keep my press set at the lowest speed; 760 RPM.

I use carbide tipped bits, with 3 in 1 oil as a cutting fluid. They last quite a while, and work wonderfully. I get them from Bisco Tool Supply... http://www.biscotoolsupply.com/carbide-tipped-drill-bit-drill-bit-hardened-metal

Holy crap, that almost doesn't look real; it's too perfect! Very nice work. I hope to reach that level some day...

Very cool!

Wow, that is cool! I love the patterns; both in the blade AND the handle. Great lines too.

By "little masks", do you mean stencils? If so, sign shops can make them.

Excellent resource. Thank you.

I got my start by doing a sharpening service. I went with a minimum charge of $5, and went up from there depending on size. Less than $5 just wasn't worth my time.

Ouch; crappy situation. Glad to hear he has no brain trauma, and my hopes to him for a speedy recovery.

I clean up mine with the shop vac after each work session, and make sure all tools & equipment are perfectly placed in their spots. You'd REALLY hate me Joshua, lol

Both the knife and the shop look great.

I am honored and grateful for that compliment sir!

I buy steel in 60" bars. After making a pair of 25" sabers, I had a 10" piece of 1075 leftover. I traced the outline of that bar on some paper, gave it to my dad, and told him to design a knife for himself. He drew up a chef's chopper, something I had never made before. Stock removal blade with Bubinga handle scales. I would dare say that before my dad, all onions will rightly tremble...

I took my time making these, and finally got them finished. 25" OAL, 1075 steel, stock removal blades. I used Padauk for the handle scales. I'll be keeping one of them. Gotta stop doing that...

That's pretty sweet.

I don't think it wastes that much. One sheet of paper gives me four strips for the block, of which just a couple inches per strip, where they tuck under each side, is unused. Much safer too, as the block keeps my fingers a couple inches above the edge(s).

^^This. I got a semicircular 3M rubber sanding block, and my arthritic fingers are SO much happier now. I'm getting a better finish this way now as well.

I use the green honing compound by Veritas. http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?c=&p=32984&cat=1

Yup...no forge, so getting my blades to temp would be the issue. The wife has watched too many episodes of Forged in Fire. Every time a quench is performed, she says, "I don't want you doing that here, that looks too dangerous!" I try to tell her that it is not as dangerous as it seems. After all, all of you guys have survived so far... And I am more than willing to accept a free oven!

I'd love too. However, some of us just don't have the means, the funds, and/or the space to do it ourselves...at least not yet. If you fine fellas would like to donate $1800 to me for an Evenheat oven, I'd be much obliged! Also, the thought of me quenching blades at home has my wife all freaked out---thanks to that bonehead who burned down an entire city block in NY---the one who said he learned from watching FIF... Ultimately I would love to do my own heat treat eventually. I hate being at the mercy of the Postal Service. But for now, my guy gives me a screaming deal, so I'll contin

That's so awesome!

I have a Kalamazoo 2x72. Never had an issue like that...

I see. I use my 2x72 for the bulk of the work, but I go to the 1x30 for the finesse work and final sharpening. You can get a new 1x30 from Harbor Freight for about $40 and some change with all the 20% coupons they mail out.

You can adjust the tensioner assembly on your 1x30 to make the belts run true. Here's a tutorial I put together for getting those little guys running right... https://sbg-sword-forum.forums.net/thread/46064/harbor-freight-belt-sander-maintenance

I use Devcon Flowmix 2 ton---the 12 hour cure stuff. Have yet to have any issues with it.