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Jason McEntee

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Posts posted by Jason McEntee

  1. As I read it the Kalamazoo comes without a motor. As for soft plattens, I used JB Weld to face mine with a chunk of 1/4 inch granite tile. I've been using it for 2-3 years and just now it needs to be fixed up a bit.




    It can be purchased with or without a motor. Good info about the platen, thanks.


    Gabriel, thanks for the two cents, I don't want a refund, lol. I think I'm gonna go for it, as it has the features I'm looking for, it takes up minimal space (as I have minimal space), and I can get one for a good price from a few different vendors. I've got some money coming tomorrow from my first commissioned knife that I can put towards it. Again, this won't be seeing heavy duty usage. We'll see how it goes...

    • Like 1
  2. I'm just starting out, with a few stock-removal blades under my belt so far, and some blades I've made by cutting up display swords. Everything I have made has been using a 1x30; it's time for a 2x72. Whatever machine I get, wouldn't be subject to heavy duty, but more like hobby-type use. I also don't have a lot of money to work with.


    So, I'm wondering if the Kalamazoo 2FS72M would be a good enough machine, as it's the closest one to being affordable, and I do NOT want a Grizzly. I can't seem to find any reviews on the machine linked below, good or bad. Does anyone have any thoughts or opinions?


    Thank you, --Jason



  3. Nice looking job on that knife! I think when you start doing your own handles that hand tools work better, or a least give more control, than power tools. I use Japanese wood carving rasps from Woodcraft and bastard files.




    Thanks! I have started doing my own handles, here's my first two:





    I found a video on YouTube where a guy used narrow strips of sandpaper--holding them by the ends, using a back and forth motion. This worked wonderfully, so hand sanding is the way to go I think.

  4. Thanks Wes! Heat treating will be the final step toward being self-sufficient, but that's still quite a way down the road.


    I would certainly like to read Dune in the near future. I've got two Bernard Cornwell books to tackle, and then I'll order a copy of Dune. From what my brother tells me, to truly cover the book, the film would have to have been about six hours long...?


    Kevin, at the rate I work (slow), the two blades next up for my nephew will keep me busy probably till Thanksgiving! ;)

  5. AS08: Double-Edged Clip-Point Fighter

    My first commission piece, this is loosely based on the blade used by Tormund of the free-folk from Game of Thrones; however, this one is double-edged. The blade was heat treated by Lyndle Driggers of J&L Custom Cutlery. Here's the blade it was inspired by:




    The specs:

    Steel: 1075

    Overall length: 19.75"

    Blade length: 13"

    Distal taper: 4.6mm to 2.4mm at 1" from tip

    Grip length: 6.75"

    POB: 0.75" past front of grip

    Weight: 1 lb, 2 oz

    Handle: Bocote


  6. Thanks Kevin! There won't be any money coming for this one---I made it for myself. I haven't read the book, but I was 11 years old when the film was released in 1984, and I absolutely LOVED it.


    I got the idea to do this when my 26 year old nephew asked me to make him a Crysknife and the blade of Emperor Shaddam the IVth, again the the versions from the film as opposed to the book. Those will be made accurate in size at least, and will be my next projects.


    Here's the film Crysknife, which appears to be single edged. Below that, the Emperor's blade.




  7. Well guys, I did it! Until now, I've been sending my blades out to my heat-treater for the handles to be made. I made this knife for myself, with this being my first handle. I have to hand it to my heat treater, Lyndle Driggers of J&L Custom Cutlery, for his invaluable advice on handle making. He gave me detailed advice on something I had been paying HIM to do for me---says a lot about the man's character.


    The newest addition to my collection:


    AS09: "Shai-Hulud" (SHY huh-LOOD)---Great Crysknife

    (Inspired by a blade from David Lynch's 1984 film, "Dune"


    1075 Steel
    Method: Stock removal
    Heat Treat: Triple normalized, oil quenched, & triple tempered by Lyndle Driggers
    Overall length: 20.5"
    Blade length: 14"
    Edge length: 11.5"
    Grip length: 6.5:
    POB: 2" past front of grip
    Weight: 1 lb, 2 oz
    Handle: Bocote, held on by epoxy & five brass pins
  8. I get my steel from Admiral---hot rolled, not annealed. I use carbide bits, and have had no problems. I've even drilled through hardened steel with them, and I'm still using my original bits. I got them here, for a very good price:




    Drill press running at 620 RPM, with 3 in 1 oil as a cutting fluid. I start with a 1/8" bit to make a pilot hole. Moderate pressure, drill a little, back out, drill a little more. When halfway through, add another drop of oil to the hole.

  9. Nice work, the pattern weld came very nicely.


    Question, how was the black palm to work with? I was just about to get some for a current project, but I read that it can be difficult to work with, so I got bocote instead. How did it work out for you?

  10. Oooooo, pretty!Have you/will you do any test cuts before the giveaway?

    Thank you. Not planning on it, as I want whoever ends up with it to be the first to get to cut with it. It passed the paper test, and shaved hair off of my arm. It's a little heavy, but the POB gives it blade presence in just the right spot.

  11. Hello,


    Before I start grinding, I want to make sure that I don't remove too much material and end up with a warped blade after heat treat. Through searching here, I've come across the "thickness of a dime" a few times.

    I send out for heat treat, as I don't have the means to do it myself. My previous project was triple normalized, oil quenched, then triple tempered.

    This current blank (only the second one I've made, by stock removal) is 1075 steel, 3/16" thick, geared toward being a slicer. How thick should I leave it to ensure it remains straight throughout the heat treat process?

    My apologies if this has been asked, but my search results were somewhat vague. --Jason



  12. Here's the first blade I've made from bar-stock steel. I don't have the means to heat treat myself, so I sent it out to J & L Cutlery for that. After I polished it, I sent it back out for the handle to be done, as I haven't done one yet. I didn't attempt the handle myself because I'll be donating this piece for for the SBG Sword Forum's Holiday Giveaway, and I wanted experienced hands to do the handle. I'll be doing my own handles from now on...wish me luck!

    Khopesh Inspired, Fantasy Chopper/Slicer
    Blade by Appleseed Sharpening
    Heat Treat & Handle by J & L Cutlery


    1075 Steel
    Method: Stock Removal
    Heat Treat: Approx. 56 HRC
    Overall Length: 20"
    Grip Length: 5.75"
    Blade Length: 14.25"
    Edge Length: 12"
    Weight: 1 lb, 4 oz
    POB: 8.75" From Butt
    Handle: Tiger-Stripe Maple



    • Like 1
  13. Hello to all from the new guy! My name is Jason McEntee, and I started collecting functional swords & other medieval weapons in 2011. Two years later I started a sharpening service for the sword collecting community under the name "Appleseed Sharpening."

    Two years ago, I began making spears & polearms out of forged scrapers from Home Depot, and then a year later started cutting up wall-hanger swords and making knife blades out of them. Just this year, thanks to a motivational kick in the arse by Tom Kinder, I decided to take the next step and move on to making stock removal blades.

    I've made one so far, with two more in progress and hopefully many more to come! I'm exited to be here, and I look forward to getting to know you folks, and I am sure there is MUCH I can learn from you. Maybe someday I'll be able to contribute as well...


    Regards, --Jason McEntee

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