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Karl Myers

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Everything posted by Karl Myers

  1. Alright I will do the new coats with firings after each one. After some reading, it seems that I may have the choke adjustment off. A few people mentioned too much propane and not enough air can result in the color I had in my flame. I opened the choke some more and it's all blue
  2. I fired up the forge for the first time. I think I let the fire go too long because I did get some cracking and a few flakes. No exposed kaowool though. I think I will let it cure even longer since I still have a few dark grey spots in the forge around the edges of the rim. I did notice my flame had a green hue to it. Is this bad?
  3. Meeco's red devil I believe. I got the kind that did not have the fibers in the mix because I figured it wouldn't brush on as well. It's firmed up well. I have three coats brushed on. I'm debating if I want to add more.
  4. My second coat smoothed out the rest of my dips. It is curing in the oven as I type. I am not sure about using typical cement. This refractory cement I'm using is super fine and sandy. It looks more like a thin set than a cement. It is hardening very firm and with a high grit sandpaper like texture. From what I have read, the key is getting as much moisture out of the cement before using the forge at typical temps. If not, the moisture left uncured can cause the cement to explode as Alan said. This is what I have read though. I have 0 experience. This is my first forge experience. After my 3rd coat I will let the forge set in the garage for 2 days or so. I am curing each cost at 500*F for an hour and letting it cool down in the oven.
  5. I'm not certain the method I'm trying works. I just wanted to see if it would because I definitely want a couple coats of this stuff. It's thinning out really well. I do not have my regulator yet and have not filled up my tank. So I figured I'd try this out. It went on very even and didn't crack when it hardened. I'm doing the second coat here after it cools down
  6. Hello again everyone. I went ahead and got the refractory cement that was rated at 3000F for $5. I brushed, dabbed, and smoothed out my first coat. It is curing in the oven right now at 500F. I'm going to see what an hour does to it. I moistened the ceramic insulation first before I applied the cement. I read this is benefitial to help keep the fibers down and let the cement make a better connection. I will check on the forge in an hour and see if it will handle a second coat yet. Is it best to shut off the oven and let the cement cool down inside the oven gradually? I don't want to pull it out and ruin the process.
  7. I think it was called red devil and was rated at 3000F. The Q&A on the web said it could be thinned out to be brushed onto ceramic wool, but I wanted to check here first.
  8. Also the cement is gray. Does that matter
  9. I am doing this exact thing right now. Forging looks really cool in sped up YouTube videos, but when I try it for the first time I know it will be frustrating and difficult to learn alone. So I got a forge for 130, an anvil for 100 and a propane tank for 115. If I don't enjoy it I won't have a ton of cash invested. I'm hoping I do love it though.
  10. Alright. I appreciate the reply. I found some 3000*f rated refractory cement that I can thin out, but it says that it is fiber reinforced. Is this beneficial or a disadvantage? They have it without the fiber reinforcement as well.
  11. Hey guys. I thought this black coating on the anvil I bought was paint so I tried to take it off. I stopped because it is definitely not pain. Is it black oxide or something? I know the previous wonder was retired from ford and used his forge and this to make horseshoes and tools for his small farm. Should I leave this on the face, or will it be bad to leave on?
  12. I'll take it into consideration. Even the stake anvils I looked at were very expensive. I do not want to have a lot of money into my starter set up just incase I don't end up enjoying the hobby as much as I hope to. I have heard wrapping chains around these types of anvils will help dampen some of the ring. I have ordered my regulator. I hope to have a running forge by the end of the month.
  13. I did go ahead and buy it. I figured that for $100 bucks I couldn't go wrong. It is 2.87" wide and 16.87" long
  14. Alright guys. I think I got a makeshift anvil lined up. I'm about to leave now to check it out. It's an old piece of railroad track mounted to some steel beams. I offered the seller $100. They had it listed at $300 thinking it was a real anvil. If I buy it, I will post photos.
  15. Super cool man. I can't wait to start learning this craft. It will be a long journey, but I know the challenge is what makes it worth it.
  16. I never thought to check around the Amish. I will have to do that. I have gone to a couple antique places and they are just really high price wise. I could buy new tools for the asking price of those places. Most of the tools there are really work and I haven't seen an anvil yet,but I will press on. I think this coming week I will go to a few around bean blossom, Morgan town, and Nashville. As far as the regulator goes, the 0-40 regulator was the same price as the 0-30 and I'd rather have the ability to go to 40 for the same price. I did figure that 30 was all I'd need though.
  17. The one I'm looking at is exactly like that one except the handle is a t-handle instead of a knob. I was planning on getting one with a braided steel covered line incase something ever snagged it or anything
  18. The regulator I am looking at states that it is specifically for propane tanks. It is not the acme type connector, but the one the screws into the internal threads of the tank. Seems similar to the fitting on an acetylene regulator.
  19. Oh I see. I just assumed the regulator was directly attatched to the tank and the ball valve was attatched to the burner and a hose connected the two. I will order a regulator soon.
  20. Thanks Gabriel, I have an aspirated gas forge. Is a pig tail the same thing as a hose barb fitting?
  21. I've been looking at regulators for my forge. I found one that ranges from 0-40psi. Besides the regulator and a ball valve, is there any other fittings I need on my tank?
  22. Thanks for taking the time to write all that information. After a month or two on my own, I do plan to join the local group. I do believe that I will like forging once I start, but who knows right? I will take all this info into account. The knowledge base here will help me avoid mistakes. I hope to eventually meet some local guys and learn a thing or two. If any guys from Indiana are members of the big smith group (can't remember the name) let me know how you enjoy the group functions.
  23. One quick note on coatings guys, my forge only has about 1.3 square feet of area to be covered. Would one pound of satanite and 1/4 pint of ITC 100 do me?
  24. I appreciate the help guys. Looks like the welding shop is my friend when it comes to linking my tank to my forge and my protection. I'll hit up the other sources you all provided if I can not source things locally. I am pretty big on spending cash locally when I can! That's why I hope to find some tools and an anvil at an antique or estate sale here around my area of possible. It does appear that I will have to find a regulator online. Does this Wayne Coe guy have the whole deal with a psi gauge as well? My forge is pretty tiny. I think a 100# propane tank will serve me well. I am planning to go to half price books this week to see if any of the recommended books are available there. I am going to get some more safety gear tomorrow. As far as the coating go for my ceramic insulator, is there one coat that I want to add before the other?
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