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Garry Keown

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Everything posted by Garry Keown

  1. I built my second forge from a large gas tank or the section I cut from it. 24 inches was a good length and I cut a strip down the length of it and used a strap (truck tie down) to squeeze it back together at the new smaller 12 inch dia. a pair of plates for the ends were located with bolts and a nut welded to the back of the plate and a larger nut welded to the body for the bolt to slip through and the head against the larger nut allows for the plates to drawn up tight and are removable if the lining ever needs to be changed. I only use this forge for HT the knives that are a bit long for the smaller single burner forge and for hting the stainless blades as I have the temp guages all sorted for this one. Able to hold the temp to +/- 2 degrees F for the SS blades.
  2. Here in farming country it was always red sky at night shepards delight, red sky in the morning shepards warning.
  3. That is striking in a subtle sort of way. Yep I like it.
  4. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pAngKHIZgyA
  5. I can pass you Jasons (FB) details if you want a piece.
  6. A batch of knives under the brood light. As we are getting well down in temps with some heavy overnight frosts I have the brood light going over them overnight for the epoxy to cure. Finally able to get some knives handled for some very paitent customers. I have had concience problems with this taking so long but should be able to go back to my max 6 week order to delivery time frame now that things are running again. I was talking to Jason last night (the wood guy in Texas) and he sent a pic of one of the big pieces of Amboyna burl he is about to cut up so I asked him to put a 4 nice blocks asside for me. It is so nice that I may just get another couple as well.
  7. Got the floor plate done with the soft pine boards to cushion it against the concrete and sat the main frame and the final drive pulley stand in place. Still have some welding to do on them but I NEEDED so see it like this.
  8. Got the floor plate done with the soft pine boards to cushion it against the concrete and sat the main frame and the final drive pulley stand in place. Still have some welding to do on them but I NEEDED so see it like this.
  9. Was at the steel yard again today and picked up a heavier shaft for an anvil. This one will weigh 300lb by the time the 1/2" in base plate, the bizalloy hard face and the tool rest are all welded on so a good deal more mass than the 150lb one I had bought the last week. Had to top and tail it but the big powersaw and an overhead Was at the steel yard again today and picked up a heavier shaft for an anvil. This one will weigh 300lb by the time the 1/2" in base plate, the bizalloy hard face and the tool rest are all welded on so a good deal more mass than the 150lb one I had bought the last week. Had to top and tail it but the big powersaw and an overhead crane had it done in about 3/4 hour. At 300lb for my 22lb tup I am at 14 to one ration so near to the 15 to one quoted above and better than what I had with the smaller ram for the anvil.
  10. The helve hammer had a good boost today with the base plates bolted down and the nuts welded on the underside of the floor plate. The individual parts are just on heavy enough that being able to unbolt them if I have to shift it is an important consideration (for me anyway). The stands for the drive arm pulley were welded to the base plate then the twin uprights got welded to their base plate with the angle irons welded to the top for the bearing housings to be bolted to. Dosent sound like a lot but it was a full day. I will get a couple of pics tomorrow as it was almost dark when I got done for the day.
  11. The helve hammer had a good boost today with the base plates bolted down and the nuts welded on the underside of the floor plate. The stands for the drive arm pulley were welded to the base plate then the twin uprights got welded to their base plate with the angle irons welded to the top for the bearing housings to be bolted to. Dosent sound like a lot but it was a full day.
  12. May be a first time modern but it is certainly not a first time skill. That spalted beech is wildly beautiful and a perfect match for the damascus. I am not a fan of long guards on hunting knives though as they get in the way for some chores
  13. The morning went by with getting some knives sharpened, cleaned up, packaged and away on the international courier and the afternoon was spent going over a request for a short bullnosed skinner and when I had the pattern right, getting it and another 5 blades cut out and profiled.
  14. One thing to be carefull of is the groove you have inside the stiching groove and in particular on the tan sheath at the tip of the sheath it shows two strokes with fading in both and the black one looks to have a blunt groover or a stop start stroke. When a knife is presented in the sheath these things do stand out and may disuade a potential buyer.
  15. colour me wowed with that one. Love every aspect of it and there is a lot to study on.
  16. another to join the ranks of the impressed, very nice indeed.
  17. This is a Hunter Skinner with canvas micarta on the 1084 blade with this being the prototype offering of the steel with the knife. This was an idea put forward by Bruce so he gets the first one out the gate.
  18. Have just done the hot waxing on these today so just have to put the final edge on the blade and they can go on the courier.A 7 1/2 in chef with paper micarta on 12C27 stainless Pocket Ranger with Leopardwood over curvebacked buff horn on the 1095 blade PH EDC with macrocarpa over curve back buff horn on the 1095 blade Pig Sticker with Desert ironwood over curve backed buff on the 1095 blade with both sheath options
  19. I did see another ram at the steel yard but didn't take a great deal of notice (it was in the cold part of the yard and it was -5c at the time) but if memory served it was a greater dia than the 4 inch rama I got and maybe in the 6 inch range so I will check it out next week when I am down there and if it is significantly larger I will see if he will cut me a piece off it. If it is a 6 inch ram a 32 inch piece should weigh in the 260lb range and be one piece rather than a stack of bits.
  20. Another short step along the road today with another few bits garnered from the steel yard/ I also picked up the tup from the engineer with the inch bizzalloy hard face beautifully welded and the edges very nicely radiused. It fits inside the 3x3 to connect to the spring. I also picked up a piece of 7 inch dia round steel that weighs just on 80lb. The ram I bought for the anvil weighs 145lb which would reduce to 110lb when I cut off the 9 inches to maintain the 32in OA height so with the added 80lb would make the anvil about 190lb. Is it worth doing this for the 45lb gain against leaving the uncut ram at 145lb with no weld bar the bizzalloy top plate.
  21. Use lamp black or hold the steel over a candle and scrape carefully the marked bits on the wood till you get a complete coverage of the black on the wood to show 100% fit. Use fine scrapers rather than a file at this stage of the fitting.
  22. The one sugestion I would make is to lower the point of the thumbrest and move it forward a fraction.I make a few of my designs with a thumbrest and in general the slightly lower and easuer curve to the ramp is an advantage. It will also take the sharp fin look away from the blade. This is a couple of my designs and you can see that even with the ramp the blade dosent look too "peaky". The placement of the thumbrest point is dependent on the what the knife will be used for, as to whether it is a power use, a stabilising use or even just for looks
  23. I appreciate the input Bruno. My tup is 30 lb so not the weight of yours but for the type of forging I anticipate it will certainly be effective. I am going to get a heavier block of steel for under the anvil but do not envisage the excavation of the floor to burry anything down in there. At present the anvil is 132lb so at the most I will probably double that and it will be a triangle stack of no more than three if I can get the bits I want. I am going to have a flat tup and anvil top with 4 inch dia x 1 1/4 thick bizzalloy faces having radiused edges. I intend to weld a table to one side so I can use sporing fullers for any different shapes I may need. I expect the drawing die will be first and then maybe a tapering die and a butcher die. They will have pegs in the lower arm to locate in the table top to keep them from moving around so that is the simplest solution to dies that I can think of. What are guards My motor is a 1 hp but is geared down through two sets of pulleys to about 220 rpm. I have a two leafe set to my spring but can easily add another one or two leafs if needs be. I hadn't intended to secure the spring ends to each other but am happy to take advice on the needs or otherwise of this part of the spring set-up
  24. The 39x24 sheet of 1/4 in steel got cleaned up today. It had a lot of gas torch slag on the underside so it took a bit to grind all that off but when iot was done a 40 grit disc cleaned all the rust off the back and the thick layer of some type baked paint over near a 1/6 of filler in places. The edges were ragged from the gars torch and as I was/am going to lay the base on some soft 1 inch pine boards I decided to put an inch deep slot down the center of some 3x2 and make a frame that will match the boards underneath.The 4x2 uprights are cut to length so I sat the off cuts on the plate for a mock up for the spring. There is a bit more prep work done but without it in one piece it will make much sense at this stage. I do have to pick up something for a base to the anvil to give it some more mass and a base plate for the uprights so will leave it at this stage till next week. Because of the weight of this finished unit is more than I will be able to move about I decided to make it with the anvil as a unit welded to a base plate that will be bolted to the floor plate the same way the uprights will be welded to a base plate that will bolt to the floor plate so that it will be in more managable pieces to get into place
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