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Garry Keown

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Everything posted by Garry Keown

  1. I added a taper maker to the anvil today. I cut out a few plates with matching holes for the two bolts and the anvil so that anything welded on top will have the anvil directly under them with this one having a tree felling weedge as the tapering component. It will sit diagonally so I can taper in either direction if needed. A bit of reshaping of the ends of the wedge ad trueing up of the faces then the heavy fuller up the center needed filling And with it welded into place and the plater bolted to the anvil table, it is ready for service
  2. saved that information @Alan Longmire for when I get to play with the helve hammer . Have a couple of tooling projects to finish (and show) before I get to some blade forging.
  3. The one thing I would add is that I cut 5/16 strips from the end of a 3.2mm double shoulder and that is my welt strips. They bend round the curve of the sheath very easily and save a lot of leather be not needing to cut the exact curved shape from the bulk of the piece of leather you have. I generally have a double shoulder of 1.5, 2.5 and 3.2 mm thickness on hand. I use the 3.2 mm for the larger hunting knives with the 3.2 strip for the welt and the belt loop from the 2.5mm sheet. The smaller knife has a sheath of 2.5 leather with a 3.2 welt and 1.5 belt loop. The kitchen knives still have the 3.2 welt but 1.5 sheath and with no belt loop.
  4. Very nice project results on both the knives and sheaths. This is the one I would choose for myself as it is very close in blade shape to what I have made for myself as a table knife with a different handle style. I like this one a lot with the little detail of the bolster tail under the leading edge of the (apple??) wood handle.
  5. The yes I get them from J&R . Hadn't dealt with his busness, always on a personal level with Jason himself and a better, more honourable man to deal with would be hard to find.
  6. A dry q tip for the first few cleaning passes and only when the majority of it has been wiped away do you need to use the acetone to clean the residue off.
  7. No, not J&R so you will have to ride a bit further thandown the road in OK and all the way to TX to catch up with Jason Williams Thism is his FB page https://www.facebook.com/jwstabilized.rawwoods?epa=SEARCH_BOX
  8. added another blister mapkle block to the box to fill it out. Should be here within a week.
  9. Just bought these handle blocks so some more nice knives in the offing when they arrive. Top right are a pair of amboyna scales then an amboyna block, Box elder and two spalted buckeye with another of the same on the left. Bottom of the pic are two blocks of blister maple Another amboyna block and a spectacular block of blister maple
  10. These two away today. The AH EDC and an Old Western with bookmarked Eucalyptus over Buffalo Horn 3 pin CB bolsters.
  11. A bit of cleaning up to do yet Conner?
  12. I send all my kitchen knives in a leather slip cover. Like a sheath but lighter leather and no belt loop, so that is is protected in transit. Most have some means of keeping the knife in protected place in the kitchen whether it is a chefs roll or magnetic rack on the wall, knife block on the bench or knife draw with individual places for each knife so the slip cover only has to protect it in shipment. I wrap all my knives in cloth squares with the data sheet and guarantee +my card and then in bubble wrap in the protected shipping bag. And welcome to the forum Dan.
  13. Yes but even on stabilised wood I give it one coat just because I can get past the need for doing so
  14. The best finish I have found for walnut and in fact is my go to finish for all my knife wood handles is sand to 600, buff well and then the four equal part mix of tung oil, blo, veg turps(gum spirits) and spar varnish. Brush on liberally, leave for 20 - 30 minutes and wipe off hard with lint free cloth. Repeat every 2-3 hours till the finish is singular accross the whole surface. I do rifle stocks this way as well. The turps takes the oil/varnish deep into the wood and sets in the wood rathyer than on the surface
  15. Thanks Geoff. It works very well . The top is a part of a die that I cut and welded to the main block. It all weighs about 55kg - 121lb. the hardy and pritchel surrounds are from wearalloy/bizalloy anbd I had a manufacturing engineer weld it all together for me. All up it cost about NZ$150 for the steel and welding
  16. A bit of a play to update the anvil I built some time back. Had always intended to get a horn organised for it but have decided this is a more practical solution. I added in a hardy and pritchel hole so it made sence to make use of them for the horn substitutes. I had a 4 inch length of 4 inch dia rod so welded a hardy spike to both the flat and the end so I can use it to wrap something arround in either orientation. Then did a piece of 2 inch for one orientation and have a length of 1 1/2 inched that I will do the first work on the power hammer with and make the taper on one end and then I can also weld a hardy spike to it to hang over the side and should then be able to cover almost any use for an actual anvil horn. The anvil as it is The 4 inch rod in the upright position so a wrap can be done right arround it if needed and will be how the spring for some of the fullers are done. And the 4 inch rod in the horrizontal position where it can be used to hammer things over The 2 inch rod for hammering over tighter bends. I will add a hardy spike to the end so it can be used upright as well for circular applications. And lastly the 1 1/2 inch rod that I will forge the taper on
  17. will get some thinners today and there is nothing but steel in this rope so a bonus in that regard.
  18. I have cut it in three and welded the ends . Has a lot of grease melting off (no rust though) Had thought to square the ends and untwist a bit to get rid of rest of grease and heat to tighten twist and go from there to square it then forge from there into knife shaped thingy. Have watched a few cable videos but always up for any info to make it go rightthe first time.
  19. The Buffalo Skinner in SS damascus which the light didn't show very well with the Exhibition walnut over the 3 pin buff bolster in stamped sheath with the honing steel. Next is a PH EDC with Desert Ironwood over the 3 pin buff horn bolster on the SS damascus blade. Have a really nice set of letters comin to do impress on the face of the sheath with the initial of the customer. This little kitchen petty has the desert ironwood over the 3 pin paper micarta bolster with ss and micarta pinwork. on the 12C27 blade and is a thank you gift for a special young lady who is final year training in dentistry specialising in denture work. The dental school gets paid but she has been an absolute delight to engage with as she has gone about the difficult (in my case) task of making a set of dentures for me.
  20. I know about that area Jason as I offer a cross draw sheath for many of my knives and while I didn't have a failure I did change my first pattern to make that area a little wider for the same reason. That is where all the hold is concentrated and any stress on the sheath translates to this area. Some of my cross draw sheaths are for those who go into areas where a failure could prove catastrophic to life and or limb. This is from my website The J T Ranger. The JT Ranger knife was designed in consultation with a former US Ranger and has a 5 1/2 in blade of .156 1095. This saber ground blade with relieved top edge has the point in a direct line through the center line of the handle makes for a very directable knife with good retention values with the longer finger guard and a thumb rest for a power stroke. Supplied with either a standard strong side behind the hip vertical sheath or a weak side 45* butt forward cross draw sheath as shown with this one. And another one for a very different knife as used for hunting rather than defense etc
  21. So are you running it in the 22-2300 range Joshua as mentioned back in the thread a ways.
  22. Had a few knives finished the other day with the first two stonewashed blades among them. Really quite taken with the stone washing and not sure whether aI like the p[lain dark handle or the dark handle with the nickle silver bolster. In any case it would be good to hear what you all prefer for the visual. First is a mini skinner in stone washed 1084 with nickel silver bolster and pins over Tasmanian blackwood handles. A bit of stamping on the sheath with the attached honing steel to complete the set. Then the stonewashed 1084 Hunter Skinner with simple Ebony handles and black micarta pins. Plain sheath to go with the mininlest theme.
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