Jump to content

Garry Keown

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by Garry Keown

  1. Had to make a decision on the Chinese vegetable knife after the handle shaping started to come together and wasn't pleased either the weight or the feel in hand so have put it aside and will take the handle off, regrind the blade with higher grind to remove more weight and use a different bolster and wood combination. In the meantime I ground the other blade and have it in the clamps to finish tomorrow. Also got a Wapiti knife with handles on for tomorrow as well. The slicer came up rather nice with its Tasmanian Blackwood and bronze furniture
  2. One of todays jobs was to prepare this Chinese vegetable knife for the handle and the pommel. Blade was cut from and old pitted bench saw blade which was hard wire brushed and then done again after the heat treating process to maintain the blackened look of a rescued old knife. Will have bronze and ebony furntiure so the bronze bolsters are pinned on and the pommel anchor cut and peened in place with its pin rounded to lock on the pommel plate. And another meat (or vegetable) slicer wanted to show one of the processes I use now to ensure there is as good an epoxy hold on the
  3. Exactly. Most for their first sheath do a simple pouch sheath but you have gone a whole bunch of steps above that with this one. Your retention strap intrigues me with its uniqeness.
  4. rivets require a wider sheath than a stitched one and can look amateurish in my not so humble opinion.
  5. Make sure you have a few extra keys for the padlocks as the young are libale to loose them . Great gift by the way and very neatly done.
  6. Not yet but have in my saved folder to watch later in the day.
  7. Todays grinding session will give me some handsanding to do next. Three slicers (Nitro V) a chinese vegetable knife and a wapiti knife. Bought another very nice lot of handle blocks with spalted buckeye and gidgee from Jason Williams who has the best selection going and is a real gent to deal with.
  8. Thankls Brian. They are barely visible after the high polish so it takes a few weeks till they start to show themeslves more clearly. I have taken to doing that on all the larger bolsters now. Another thing I will do on some of the larger knives is to do the mark on the blades as a drill through rather than a partial drill mark, radius slightly, peen the pins in place and have them visible on both sides of the blade.
  9. Got four knives prepped with three shipped off and the fourth ready to go to the city on fri then got a hunter and two chinmese vegetable cleavers profiled, pre-ground and heat treated or at least the first of the temper cycles so will get the other cycle done later this evening
  10. Had four knives ready to ship today and and sent three off without taking a pic of them. One was an AH EDC and two of the slicers from the the batch I did the other day. This one I will deliver on fri when I am in the city Gidgee and brass (with 3 copper pins) on the Nitro V stainless blade and in the first group of stainless blades that I have given a cryo quench.
  11. I havent made axe handles but for strength I would have the grain vertical the same way that hard recoiling rifles have the grain for that very reason. It is called board sawn or flat sawn where the grain that runs horrizontal is 1/4 sawn.
  12. Three of the 4 slicers done and in the rack for oil finish on the handles. Two with local eucalyptus over bronze on the NitroV blades and an AH EDC with buffalo horn on the 1084 blade.
  13. Love that fine filework on the spine Josh. A good pair of eyes and a steady hand would be a must.
  14. Me too. I thought there were some beautiful knife handles being lost.
  15. Run tape round one end to stop at the join and carefully wet sand the one end, change the tape and do the other end. The you can dry sand the actual joint.
  16. I have done on rifle stocks (have made 35+ from the blank) but now use a equal parts mix of pure tung, refined blo, vege turps (gum turps) and marine varnish and get just as nice a finish visually but more water protected with the part marine varnish which the vege turps takes deeper into the wood and along with the drying oils creats the moisture barrier where the tung oil allows for moisture penetration. The old gunmakers recipe called for a coat a week for a month, a coat a month for a year and a coat a year for life so while tung oil makes for a beautiful finish it is not the best for lon
  17. Or do a 600 grt wet sand with your tung oil the same way the open pores are filled on the best rifle stocks. after the pores are filled and dry then your normal finish will work as well as it will on any other wood. I do the same for my wood handles that have any need of filling.
  18. This'd by one of my earliest ones Rob (1970's) made entirely with an angle grinder froma piece of burst sawmill bandsaw blade so most likely 15N20. Did a lot of work with it and if it was the only knife I had today I could stiill do most of what I need to do (hunting wise) with it. Lots of them (over 450 in last 4 years) betwen then and now with the last one away being the River Sunset bowie
  19. Thanks Brian. I do have a spare thermocouple so will change them out and it should be good to go again.
  20. I have just had a morning of heat treating some NitroV blades. Had two in the forge at a time to better control to plate quench with three plates. Put one on the base plate and a plate over it then another blade and the last plate. Put the SS wraped blades in at 1500F and ramped up to 1950-55 for 15 min using the gameco pyrometer and pressure guage to controll the temp as I normally do. First pair went well as did the second pair but the last lot did not as almost as soon as heat ramped up it started to fall back again (I thought it was freezing) so played with pressure to keep it right but wh
  21. Busy day today with patterns cut out of steel sheet for a chinese vegetable cleaver, a 12 inch bladed cimeter, a meat slicer and new pattern table knives with a his n hers slight size difference. The cleaver and the cimeter will be in carbon steel but cut the staniless blades from a sheet of NitroV stainless and got them ready for a minimal pre-grind tomorrow. The 1/4 inch hole in the handles is to hang them in the liquid nitrogen dewar on the copper brackets I made.
  • Create New...