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Garry Keown

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Posts posted by Garry Keown


  1. 6 hours ago, Alan Longmire said:

    You can also cast oversized rods and use a drawplate to size them exactly.  This will give more uniformity as well.  

    Be careful getting into jewelers equipment though.  Before you know it you'll be pining after a rolling mill...  :lol:

    hahaha. The friend I am looking at investigating casting with is a botique manufacturing jeweler and has a draw plate and a small rolling mill.so casting oversize and drawing them through the plate is a great sugestion thanks. She is my monday apprentice and floor sweeper so she can learn a bit from my playing in the shed and it is great to havce someone who can (enthusiastically) use the small offcuts of the various horn, bone and exhibition grade woods that would otherwise be in the bin.


  2. Going to be a tricky one Joshua. It is the 3/32 size I want so will cut a block of steel in half and dress the faces then clamp together and drill the hole and flare the top if I go that road. Will probably do a set of holes that are only about 1 1/3 long  or 3 pin lengths. Had been looking at crucibles for another project I am investigasting with a friend so this may me the natural solution for me.

     


  3. The other little project was to make a spring fuller for the helve hammer so I can draw out some length from shorter thicker bars.
    Started with a piece of 2 inch bar stock and drilled a serier of holes accross it then a cut off disc in the angle grinder gave me the two pieces to grind into equal halves.

    IMG_20200624_154924.jpg

     

    IMG_20200624_155330.jpg

    a 6 ft 6 length of 2 x 1/4 flat bar was marked out and cut into 3 and a dog leg marked in using the angle dividers. I wanted to run these wiuth a dog leg so I had a better meeting surface with a straighter pull through on the hammer.
    I only welded up the one for now with its added bar to bring it up the the anvil height. I did set the 1/2 rounds on to make sure they would be in the right place but didn't weld them on till I had put the bar into the forge and got it hot enough to bend the flat bar to make the right shape to work as a spring and then welded the 1/2 rounds in place.

    IMG_20200628_095518.jpg

    IMG_20200628_154520.jpgIMG_20200628_161428.jpg

     

    And just in case any of you are not up to speed on welding this is how a weld is supposed to look  B)B)

     In any case it all seemed to fit together about right and with a couple of bolt thread tapped in the table top I can secure it in place against the movment caused by drawing the bar through it in use. I am abkle to secure the tup at its highest poiunt so that I can change out the various dies etc that I may end up making and have the ability through the top styrip on the drive arm and the link between the tup and the spring to adjust the opening by quite a substantial ammount if the need be.

    IMG_20200701_111752.jpgIMG_20200701_111808.jpg

     

    • Like 1

  4. A very pleasing day today with a couple of new things finished. First was a trial of stone washing and have to say that I am very pleased with the result. Not the best pic but I am going to put a bronze CB 3 (SS) pin bolster on this one with dark gidgee handles and black pins. Will put it in a stamped sheath with an attached steel and see if the resulting look has an exceptanceamong my customer base.

    IMG_20200701_154454.jpg

    I cut a few slices off the bar of bronze and am collecting the saw cut pieces in a container and will add all the bits from the slices from when I cut out the CB shape. sometime down the track I may have a look at casting some of these little bits into something a bit more shapely than a simple bolster or pommel.

    IMG_20200701_155418.jpg


  5. Not in the shed but had a good day in town. I went to the outlet where I get bearings and belts etc to get a slightly shorter belt for the hammer final drive  They have drums of bearings that are to go for scrap and they gave me permission to scavenge any of it I wanted. I just got three smaller ones about 4 inches in dia but there were a couple of big ones that must have been 2 ft across.

    IMG_20200630_102603.jpg

     

     

    IMG_20200630_102617.jpg

    • Like 3

  6. 13 hours ago, AJ Prime said:

     

    Each burner was on a separate bottle

    Yes that is the problem AJ. You had just the two bottles with one for each burner. With  two bottles on the one manifold through one regulator and on one burner you are doubling the ammount of gas that is available to the regulator so as the bottles "freeze" there is still enough gas from each bottle to give a full pressure to the regulator. Then you have the same set up for the other burner.

    For the two burners you have four bottles. 

    I have 2 9kg bottles to the one burner in my small forge and when the other manifold arrives I will have 2 18kg bottles for my larger (3 burner) forge. Gas freezing will be a thing of the past for me.


  7. On the gas supply problem AJ, the solution is to get one of the manifolds from Gameco so you can run two bottles together through the same regulator so if you had one with two bottles and yoiur friend did for his two bottles the freezing aspect would most likely dissapear. They are just $58 + gst each and are a simple fix for the feezing. I got one for both my forges and wouldn't dream of going back to a single bottle supply.


  8. A Safari knife with Acacia over brass with attached steel

    ah10.png

     


    The purple dyed Pig Sticker

     

    ah11.png

     

    The mini Bull Nose Skinner with fiddleback Tasmanian Blackwood over 3 pin CB paper micarta. I havent done a sheath for it yet but will do one with attached short steel next time I am doing leather work. (and yes I know there is a hair on the blue background sheet)

     

    ah12.png

    • Like 2

  9. This lot just needs an edge on the blades and they are off to new homes

    A PH EDC with very rare quilted NZ macrocarpa over 3 pin CB buffalo horn in stamped sheath with attached steel. There is more activity in the macrocarpa than a pic can show.

    ah1.png

     

    A 7 inch chef with a very pretty piece of Lacewood

     

    ah2.pngah3.png

     


    and a J T Ranger with fiddleback Gidgee in left handed cross draw sheath.

     

    ah4.png

    • Like 1

  10. 1 hour ago, Bill Schmalhofer said:

    I'm with Garry on this one. If you have the right cut and it is tight grain, white oak can be quite interesting and beautiful (the stuff you get at the box stores usually DOESN'T fit this description). I've used it on a couple of handles finished to 6-800 grit (unstablized) and it has held up very nicely.

     

    Of course the white oak I am using came from a 280+ year old white oak (was about 5 feet DBH) that "had to be taken down" because it was in the way of widening the road. Long story short but I got about 1000 BF of the 6-12 foot long 12/4 trimmings after the owner processed it into beams for his niece to refurbish her barn. Was told what I got was only good "as fire wood" :wacko:. I air dried the wood for several years and I haven't seen any rust develop on the knife. The wood is separated form the steel by epoxy though.

    Mine came from an old English oak tree in my cosuins yard. It was on the roadside and hung over the power lines. They were quoted $2000 to trim it or they would fell it for free which is what my cousin decided on. She said the high trim cost was for the ammount of time the power board would have to have the road closed with traffic controll etc and as it was a trim would be an ongoing need but felling it would take a 1/ 2 hour and be done. I got a couple of the big crotches where large branches joined the trunk. 


  11. Some handles off the belt grinder and ready for some hand work.

     

    Chef with lacewood

    J T Ranger with Gidgee

    pigsticker with (purple dyed) gidgee. Dye did not show till I cut and sanded it.

    PH EDC with quilted macrocarpa over buffalo horn

    A Safari with acacia over brass

    Mini bullnose with tasmanian blackwood over paper micarta

    mini skinner with desert ironwood

    mini skinner with lacewood.

    IMG_20200625_104118.jpg

    • Like 5

  12. I had meant to add that there is a very good reason to hold the steel with the thumb over the top rather than round the handle in what might be a instinctive grip with those steels that have a fixed handle. A slip in concentration with the knife means a cut accross the thumb and usually is not so bad that it will heal in short order  - but holding the steel with the thumb 'round the handle' leaves the web between the thumb and the fingers vulnerable to a very severe cut and one that may well do lasting damage to the hand.


  13. This is the short vodeo I did today for the members on the hunting forum I do most of my knives for as they asked about  how I use a honing steel and in particular tghe short ones I make  and add to the sheath as and when requested.. I have ground and polished both my fathers and great grandfathers steel so they are smooth where they both had very fined ridges as I received them and of course the ones I make are polished to 600 grit.The two I got from father and great grabndfather originally had multiple small ridges but I ground themm off to smooth steel so they work much better this way. They are to hone not take metal off the blade edge.
     

     

     

    • Thanks 1

  14. 12 minutes ago, Troels Saabye said:

    Got around to finally clear the drill press table from shavings :P it actually isn't a plate - it has ridges in it xD under all the shavings

    I use a magnet on a stick ( extendable type) that fits in the grooves in the table top. That makes cleaning it much easier.

    • Like 1

  15. Had a change arround in the shed by shifting the bench planer down to the wood working end of the shed and made a set of shelves to store the exhibition wood blocks and some of the grade 2 with all the grade 1 and standard grade in a previous shelf unit and a set of drawers. Then I got two PH EDC;s , 2 mini skinners anda 7 inch chef finish ground and got 13 knife steels sanded to 600grit as well. 


  16. I would like to think that the boot knife I have misplaced will not take 10 years to resurface. I know it is in the shed and even actually looking for it hasnt worked so far .


  17. I only grind to 220 grit and then use stones in 240 and 350 then paper to 600 and it is remarkably fast to do a blade. My paper usage has gone waay down and the finish is faster and cleaner so yes I use stiones and am sold on them. I made a wooden slip in holder for mine and use the stones down to about a 1/3 of their length before discarding them. Have been using them for about 18 months and have gone through one 240grit stone in over 100 blades.

    My buffer is running away from me as well so I work on the top of it where I have more controll (and safety) 


  18. Well, I have the hammer wired up and gave it a run today but have hit two  snags. One  with the bearing in the 2 x 1/2 bar welded to the end of the final drive shaft and the drive arm. When the hammer started going well it tore the bearing out of the 2 x 1/2 so will have to find a better way of securing the two parts.

    The second fault was that the spring seems too soft so will have to add another leaf to stiffen it up a bit .

     

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