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Garry Keown

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Everything posted by Garry Keown

  1. Well, I have the hammer wired up and gave it a run today but have hit two snags. One with the bearing in the 2 x 1/2 bar welded to the end of the final drive shaft and the drive arm. When the hammer started going well it tore the bearing out of the 2 x 1/2 so will have to find a better way of securing the two parts. The second fault was that the spring seems too soft so will have to add another leaf to stiffen it up a bit .
  2. With the highly decorative pattern in the damascus and similar in the birch, the plainess of the antler accentuates the patterns either side of it, and gives the eye somewhere to rest on the journey of visual exploration.
  3. Treddle finished and works well with the motor wired in up to the switch the sparky will fix in place tomorrow. He will add another few double plugs to the shed as well. Have the angle irons cut for the perimeter stops so have to drill and get the concrete bolts in before any work on it starts.
  4. Today dod not go as well as I had hoped unfortunately. The vfd unit seems to have fried itself and that may have been a function of the low amperage the main feed to the shed delivers from the house mains. It has been compounded by the much colder weather with a greater demand on the grid so that has caused lower input as well. Going to be close to $2000 to get a new VFD, replace the 15 amp cable feed to the shed with a heavier 40 amp cable, the wiring associated with that and the wiring in of the hammer. He took the 3 ph motor off the grinder home with him to give it a good check over and will be back tomorrow (if the couriers deliver the needed goodies overnight) so hope to have the grinder back in action and the hammer all wired up and ready to go.I did get the treddle sorted and replaced the linkages from the top spring to the tup and the drive arm and now have 6 inches of hammer lift if and when I need it for taller billets etc or to work with some of the tooling I have in mind to make empty space where the motor and VFD unit shoudl be Treddle finished and works well with the motor wired in up to the switch the sparky will fix in place tomorrow. He will add another few double plugs to the shed as well.
  5. Have enjoyed all your videos. Informative and an easy relaxed watch
  6. Doctors skills are Gods Blessing
  7. Giday and welcome @AJ Prime Good to see you join this forum of bladesmiths. A very congenial group with a great deal of experience and knowledge.
  8. three things I would consider. Have you planned the length of the blade on the block to see how much of the curve there will actually be in the finished handle? Have you thought about cutting it at about bolster length (5/8" to 3/4 ") and adding a contrasting spacer which will allow you to take all or at least 90 -95% of the curve out at the cut end. what shape is the handle going to be as in, will it have flared or tapered butt and if tapered then aim the tang toward the right point on the top of the curve side and then you can bring the underside of the curve up to meet symetrically with the top side with the palm swell in the middle.
  9. https://www.facebook.com/jwstabilized.rawwoods
  10. If I see something come up I can get it but I talk to him and ask what he has and he will send any number of pics so I can make my choices. He has a far larger inventory than the few blocks he shows on the FB page. I am a nice wood afficianado (some might say addict) so I do find it hard to stop at "just one" but I get to marvel at them in hand. The nice wood is always the hardest part of the completed knife to let go when they are ready to ship.
  11. I had these blocks turn up this morning as well. They were sent back in april and got cought up in the postal shutdown so were very slow to arrive. Edit to correct that this is Huon pine burl and tassie blackwood
  12. when I was doing a joinery apprenticship (started in the late 60's) part of my job was the strip stack the native timer we got in for door and window frames. There would be a stack lifted off the truck of 6x1 1/2 and all (or mostly all) 18 to 20 ft long. I would lay the foundation billets to make a straight and level set of 4x2 to start the strip stacking on and by the time each truck load was done I would have two stacks that were about 6 ft high and 4 ft wide. by the 20 ft long. Usually do two at the end of winter and they would get all the late spring early summer winds so they would be dry by the end of summer and i would then cart them into the timber racks to be used during the year while the next lot dried. They were exposed to the winds and warmth with a sheet iron cover over them to keep the rain off. being a very dry climate the single season was sufficient to have them ready for joinery use. I made all the wooden window and door frames as part of my duties so used most of it as well.
  13. The rule of thumb is a year per inch of thickness but it is also dependent on the atmosphere where the drying is taking place. Warmth and a breeze is the best for long slow drying. It really needs to be fully dried before any dressing is done.
  14. I bet that center one gets the most use.
  15. Just added these 3 to fill the box Lacewood Maple and buckeye
  16. a delicate hand to bring this oen off.
  17. Jason the wood guy posted a nice block so I bought it and a couple more to make the shipping worth the cost of getting it here. Yellow cedar burl Nice spalting some very nice "gold" tasmanian blackwood and a very nice piece of arizona desert ironwood
  18. Having got the gooseneck guides done, the nylon guides arrived so I started to get them screwed into place with a .035 spacer to allow for a close but free slide for the tup
  19. I ground a few blades and have hardened them so they are in the temporing oven now. Done one cycle so when they cool will set them going again. In the meantime have got the gooseneck guides done and used what was going to be the anivil initially for a grinder stand.
  20. Yes the gooseneck and guide block is waiting on the nylon self lubricating sheet before finishing that part.
  21. Got the gooseneck made up today and clamped in place but waiting on the industrial self lubrication nylon I have comming that will surround the tup shaft within the guide so cant weld it all in its corect place till then. I have to set the guide back the 3/8 thickness of the nylon inserts as it is resting against the tup shaft at present. Next on the list was to sort out the treddle to activate the motor and with another couple of small pieces to be picked up on the weekly trip to the city that will be a simple job to finish. The length of hydrolic shaft I initially intended to be the anvil is now surplus so I welded a square of plate on top of it and will pick up something for the base tomoorrow. I know there are some nice 12 - 15 inch discs of maybe 3/4 in steel at the yard so that will work well as I am going to shift the bench grinder from its present position at the other end of the shed and mount it on this new stand in the metal working / end of the shed .
  22. Spent the day on the helve hammer and really quite pleased with the process.
  23. Another step along the road today with the drive arm and the tup shaft sorted. I decided to cut off the elbow I had bent into the spring (to even up the length either side of the pivot point) and welded the top and bottom spring to the end of the eye so all the welds are outside of the eye. I will probably replace both the end of the drive arm and the linkages to the tup before I set the gooseneck and tup guide. Waiting for a reply back from the self lubrication nylon supply house rather than going with grease nipples in the gooseneck so have to wait for that before I go any further with that part. Was abel to turn the pulley and get some connection with the anvil when I got a few reves under it but may add a fraction more clearance to allow for the whip of the spring.All in all a satisfying day.
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