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Garry Keown

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Everything posted by Garry Keown

  1. No, not J&R so you will have to ride a bit further thandown the road in OK and all the way to TX to catch up with Jason Williams Thism is his FB page https://www.facebook.com/jwstabilized.rawwoods?epa=SEARCH_BOX
  2. added another blister mapkle block to the box to fill it out. Should be here within a week.
  3. Just bought these handle blocks so some more nice knives in the offing when they arrive. Top right are a pair of amboyna scales then an amboyna block, Box elder and two spalted buckeye with another of the same on the left. Bottom of the pic are two blocks of blister maple Another amboyna block and a spectacular block of blister maple
  4. These two away today. The AH EDC and an Old Western with bookmarked Eucalyptus over Buffalo Horn 3 pin CB bolsters.
  5. A bit of cleaning up to do yet Conner?
  6. I send all my kitchen knives in a leather slip cover. Like a sheath but lighter leather and no belt loop, so that is is protected in transit. Most have some means of keeping the knife in protected place in the kitchen whether it is a chefs roll or magnetic rack on the wall, knife block on the bench or knife draw with individual places for each knife so the slip cover only has to protect it in shipment. I wrap all my knives in cloth squares with the data sheet and guarantee +my card and then in bubble wrap in the protected shipping bag. And welcome to the forum Dan.
  7. Yes but even on stabilised wood I give it one coat just because I can get past the need for doing so
  8. The best finish I have found for walnut and in fact is my go to finish for all my knife wood handles is sand to 600, buff well and then the four equal part mix of tung oil, blo, veg turps(gum spirits) and spar varnish. Brush on liberally, leave for 20 - 30 minutes and wipe off hard with lint free cloth. Repeat every 2-3 hours till the finish is singular accross the whole surface. I do rifle stocks this way as well. The turps takes the oil/varnish deep into the wood and sets in the wood rathyer than on the surface
  9. Thanks Geoff. It works very well . The top is a part of a die that I cut and welded to the main block. It all weighs about 55kg - 121lb. the hardy and pritchel surrounds are from wearalloy/bizalloy anbd I had a manufacturing engineer weld it all together for me. All up it cost about NZ$150 for the steel and welding
  10. A bit of a play to update the anvil I built some time back. Had always intended to get a horn organised for it but have decided this is a more practical solution. I added in a hardy and pritchel hole so it made sence to make use of them for the horn substitutes. I had a 4 inch length of 4 inch dia rod so welded a hardy spike to both the flat and the end so I can use it to wrap something arround in either orientation. Then did a piece of 2 inch for one orientation and have a length of 1 1/2 inched that I will do the first work on the power hammer with and make the taper on one end and then I c
  11. will get some thinners today and there is nothing but steel in this rope so a bonus in that regard.
  12. I have cut it in three and welded the ends . Has a lot of grease melting off (no rust though) Had thought to square the ends and untwist a bit to get rid of rest of grease and heat to tighten twist and go from there to square it then forge from there into knife shaped thingy. Have watched a few cable videos but always up for any info to make it go rightthe first time.
  13. The Buffalo Skinner in SS damascus which the light didn't show very well with the Exhibition walnut over the 3 pin buff bolster in stamped sheath with the honing steel. Next is a PH EDC with Desert Ironwood over the 3 pin buff horn bolster on the SS damascus blade. Have a really nice set of letters comin to do impress on the face of the sheath with the initial of the customer. This little kitchen petty has the desert ironwood over the 3 pin paper micarta bolster with ss and micarta pinwork. on the 12C27 blade and is a thank you gift for a special young lady who is final y
  14. I know about that area Jason as I offer a cross draw sheath for many of my knives and while I didn't have a failure I did change my first pattern to make that area a little wider for the same reason. That is where all the hold is concentrated and any stress on the sheath translates to this area. Some of my cross draw sheaths are for those who go into areas where a failure could prove catastrophic to life and or limb. This is from my website The J T Ranger. The JT Ranger knife was designed in consultation with a former US Ranger and has a 5 1/2 in blade of .156 1095. Thi
  15. So are you running it in the 22-2300 range Joshua as mentioned back in the thread a ways.
  16. Had a few knives finished the other day with the first two stonewashed blades among them. Really quite taken with the stone washing and not sure whether aI like the p[lain dark handle or the dark handle with the nickle silver bolster. In any case it would be good to hear what you all prefer for the visual. First is a mini skinner in stone washed 1084 with nickel silver bolster and pins over Tasmanian blackwood handles. A bit of stamping on the sheath with the attached honing steel to complete the set. Then the stonewashed 1084 Hunter Skinner with simple Ebony handles and black mi
  17. Got this piece of wire rope today to try some damascus from. It is a 25 wire cable with 6 outer and central core. Started as 28mm and swaged to 25 so very dense. The guy at the wire rop store is going to get me some 16mm next time (swaged to 16 fro 20mm) I am down which should be much more suitable for smaller knives but I will have a play with a piece of this when I have time and see how it forges down.
  18. Are you making the same style knives?? Do you have the same customer base?? Are you in partneship or individually setting up knifemaking business in the same premises??
  19. The professional boning knife is for when an animal is able to be hung in a breaking down shed or butcher shop as opposed to the field boning knife that is for when an animal is broken down on the ground. 6 inch blade of 1075 and this one has Swamp Kauri handles and comes in a slip cover which is a sheath wiothout the belt loop.
  20. I would say not to lock yourself into one particular finish as it can limit your customer base. Learn how to do both and offer the choise for comissions but for your own works for sale you can do as your please.
  21. My first thought was that it may need a fraction more leather width in this area as that is the weakest point. I wont comment on the need for a pair of knives or any of the other thoughts that come to mind on the carry of them.
  22. Sheaths and leatherword further down the main index page.
  23. This is a good video on the different chef knife designs
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