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Garry Keown

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Everything posted by Garry Keown

  1. Was at the steel yard again today and picked up a heavier shaft for an anvil. This one will weigh 300lb by the time the 1/2" in base plate, the bizalloy hard face and the tool rest are all welded on so a good deal more mass than the 150lb one I had bought the last week. Had to top and tail it but the big powersaw and an overhead Was at the steel yard again today and picked up a heavier shaft for an anvil. This one will weigh 300lb by the time the 1/2" in base plate, the bizalloy hard face and the tool rest are all welded on so a good deal more mass than the 150lb one I had bought the last week. Had to top and tail it but the big powersaw and an overhead crane had it done in about 3/4 hour. At 300lb for my 22lb tup I am at 14 to one ration so near to the 15 to one quoted above and better than what I had with the smaller ram for the anvil.
  2. The helve hammer had a good boost today with the base plates bolted down and the nuts welded on the underside of the floor plate. The individual parts are just on heavy enough that being able to unbolt them if I have to shift it is an important consideration (for me anyway). The stands for the drive arm pulley were welded to the base plate then the twin uprights got welded to their base plate with the angle irons welded to the top for the bearing housings to be bolted to. Dosent sound like a lot but it was a full day. I will get a couple of pics tomorrow as it was almost dark when I got done for the day.
  3. The helve hammer had a good boost today with the base plates bolted down and the nuts welded on the underside of the floor plate. The stands for the drive arm pulley were welded to the base plate then the twin uprights got welded to their base plate with the angle irons welded to the top for the bearing housings to be bolted to. Dosent sound like a lot but it was a full day.
  4. May be a first time modern but it is certainly not a first time skill. That spalted beech is wildly beautiful and a perfect match for the damascus. I am not a fan of long guards on hunting knives though as they get in the way for some chores
  5. The morning went by with getting some knives sharpened, cleaned up, packaged and away on the international courier and the afternoon was spent going over a request for a short bullnosed skinner and when I had the pattern right, getting it and another 5 blades cut out and profiled.
  6. One thing to be carefull of is the groove you have inside the stiching groove and in particular on the tan sheath at the tip of the sheath it shows two strokes with fading in both and the black one looks to have a blunt groover or a stop start stroke. When a knife is presented in the sheath these things do stand out and may disuade a potential buyer.
  7. colour me wowed with that one. Love every aspect of it and there is a lot to study on.
  8. another to join the ranks of the impressed, very nice indeed.
  9. This is a Hunter Skinner with canvas micarta on the 1084 blade with this being the prototype offering of the steel with the knife. This was an idea put forward by Bruce so he gets the first one out the gate.
  10. Have just done the hot waxing on these today so just have to put the final edge on the blade and they can go on the courier.A 7 1/2 in chef with paper micarta on 12C27 stainless Pocket Ranger with Leopardwood over curvebacked buff horn on the 1095 blade PH EDC with macrocarpa over curve back buff horn on the 1095 blade Pig Sticker with Desert ironwood over curve backed buff on the 1095 blade with both sheath options
  11. I did see another ram at the steel yard but didn't take a great deal of notice (it was in the cold part of the yard and it was -5c at the time) but if memory served it was a greater dia than the 4 inch rama I got and maybe in the 6 inch range so I will check it out next week when I am down there and if it is significantly larger I will see if he will cut me a piece off it. If it is a 6 inch ram a 32 inch piece should weigh in the 260lb range and be one piece rather than a stack of bits.
  12. Another short step along the road today with another few bits garnered from the steel yard/ I also picked up the tup from the engineer with the inch bizzalloy hard face beautifully welded and the edges very nicely radiused. It fits inside the 3x3 to connect to the spring. I also picked up a piece of 7 inch dia round steel that weighs just on 80lb. The ram I bought for the anvil weighs 145lb which would reduce to 110lb when I cut off the 9 inches to maintain the 32in OA height so with the added 80lb would make the anvil about 190lb. Is it worth doing this for the 45lb gain against leaving the uncut ram at 145lb with no weld bar the bizzalloy top plate.
  13. Use lamp black or hold the steel over a candle and scrape carefully the marked bits on the wood till you get a complete coverage of the black on the wood to show 100% fit. Use fine scrapers rather than a file at this stage of the fitting.
  14. The one sugestion I would make is to lower the point of the thumbrest and move it forward a fraction.I make a few of my designs with a thumbrest and in general the slightly lower and easuer curve to the ramp is an advantage. It will also take the sharp fin look away from the blade. This is a couple of my designs and you can see that even with the ramp the blade dosent look too "peaky". The placement of the thumbrest point is dependent on the what the knife will be used for, as to whether it is a power use, a stabilising use or even just for looks
  15. I appreciate the input Bruno. My tup is 30 lb so not the weight of yours but for the type of forging I anticipate it will certainly be effective. I am going to get a heavier block of steel for under the anvil but do not envisage the excavation of the floor to burry anything down in there. At present the anvil is 132lb so at the most I will probably double that and it will be a triangle stack of no more than three if I can get the bits I want. I am going to have a flat tup and anvil top with 4 inch dia x 1 1/4 thick bizzalloy faces having radiused edges. I intend to weld a table to one side so I can use sporing fullers for any different shapes I may need. I expect the drawing die will be first and then maybe a tapering die and a butcher die. They will have pegs in the lower arm to locate in the table top to keep them from moving around so that is the simplest solution to dies that I can think of. What are guards My motor is a 1 hp but is geared down through two sets of pulleys to about 220 rpm. I have a two leafe set to my spring but can easily add another one or two leafs if needs be. I hadn't intended to secure the spring ends to each other but am happy to take advice on the needs or otherwise of this part of the spring set-up
  16. The 39x24 sheet of 1/4 in steel got cleaned up today. It had a lot of gas torch slag on the underside so it took a bit to grind all that off but when iot was done a 40 grit disc cleaned all the rust off the back and the thick layer of some type baked paint over near a 1/6 of filler in places. The edges were ragged from the gars torch and as I was/am going to lay the base on some soft 1 inch pine boards I decided to put an inch deep slot down the center of some 3x2 and make a frame that will match the boards underneath.The 4x2 uprights are cut to length so I sat the off cuts on the plate for a mock up for the spring. There is a bit more prep work done but without it in one piece it will make much sense at this stage. I do have to pick up something for a base to the anvil to give it some more mass and a base plate for the uprights so will leave it at this stage till next week. Because of the weight of this finished unit is more than I will be able to move about I decided to make it with the anvil as a unit welded to a base plate that will be bolted to the floor plate the same way the uprights will be welded to a base plate that will bolt to the floor plate so that it will be in more managable pieces to get into place
  17. I see that the presses and power hammers use kiss blocks to make the forging and even thickness so is it a good idea to do the same on the helve hammer with is less contollable hammer action or is the idler wheel capable of lessening the strike to make this type of die workable without damage to any of the componentry.
  18. I have done a re-calculation and with the 1440 rpm motor having a 3 inch pulley going to 11 1/2 inch pulley on a primary shaft reduces that to 376 with a 7 inch pullry on that shaft driving the main shaft with 10 inch pulley will give me 226 rpm so right at your recomended speed. I have those pulleys on hand so that is a bonus.
  19. I did read that in a previous post Geoff but in this cas I will have to except les than the ideal simply for practical reasons. I have a 13kg hammer and could not manage a 260kg anvil without heavy moving equipment even if I could find something suitable that weight. It may be that I could cut off a portion of the 4 in dia shaft and get another decent lump of steel under it to increase the mass/weight.
  20. So you would not use this (center of the stub to center of the shaft at 4 inches) ) as the location of the drive arm. I could simply weld a piece of 2 x 1/2 to the end of the 1 1/2 in main shaft and drill a hole at 2 inch from center (for a bearing) to give a 4 inch stroke and set the arm for the one inch clearance. Thanks Alan, I appreciate the input. Some of these details are not evident from the videos or at least the reasoning is not given for them.
  21. I tempered them to 425f and for me the main purpose of the steel is to clean the edge of the blade of the meat fiber/membrane that make the edge feel dull. Even a strop down your pant leg will bring back an edge to clean sharp and a blade that has been dulled by the hair or dirt in the hide is going to need more than a steel to bring it back. If a blade edge is soft enough to need realigning then it really is too soft to use as a working knife in my opinion. A blade in the 60 R range is not going to be altered by wiping it down a short steel like this. A number of the commercial steels have roughened surfaces or a series of grooves running lengthwise but the I have ground a few of them dead smooth and they work so much better that way for good knives.
  22. I got the first of the steels finished that will be offered with all my knives from now on. Most are 6 inches overall but will do the odd one at 5 1/2 inches for some of the shorter knives like the mini skinner.
  23. A good day today as the restrictions were lifted so I could get back to the steel yard and picked up some more bits for the helve hammer. The anvil is a 60kg length of hydrolic ram. I will get the top hard faced but it is a good advance in the parts gathering.Motor and pulleys, bas plate and anvil base p;us the 4x2 uprights and some square and angle iron for brackets etc. The motor is a 1 hp with 1440 rpm so running from a 3 into a 11 in pulley (gives 393 rpm) and then from a 4 to a 10 inch pulley will give me a 157 rpm output at the final drive with an 8 inch stroke.
  24. An interesting day in the shed. The leaf spring has had the length equalised from center to end and the xtra length bent down to make the Helve hammer more compact. Then it was the turn of the big cast iron pulley for some attention and that took a fair chnk of theday to get done. I found short end of steel the right dia to fit in the holes in the pulley, or it did fit after I sanded a little off it and this would be drilled for a pair of bearings . Then it needed some way of beiung fixed in place to have one end outside of the wheel so the helve drive arm would clear the pulley so made some thin board templates and cut them from some 1/4in mild steel plate. Next was to cut the hole to match those in the wheel for for the bearing stub so a series of holes was drilled, the forge fired up and the center part wis hot cut with a small cold chisel I made for the job. Then some time filing it to fit. The back plate and bearing stud was drilled, thread tpped and screwed together ( this was an important step so it could all be removed later to have the bearing recesses turned and the bearings pressed in. Then both plates were drilled through and bolted together. I will get the plate welded to the bearing stub after the bearings recesses are turned in at the engineers.
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