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Garry Keown

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Everything posted by Garry Keown

  1. For my helve hammer build I have a question on pulleys and reduction of rpm . If I have a 1400rpm motor and put the smallest pulley I can find (say 2 inch) and run it to a 4 inch pulley on one end of a shaft with a similar 4 inch pullety on the other end running a 12 inch pulley to run the hammer. Will the speed of the 12 inch pulley be the same as if the 2 inch pulley was running directly to the 12 inch pulley.
  2. I have been talking to a butcher about boning knives and the difference between how a novice (me that is) uses a boning knife out of the front of the hand, as in standard knife hold where the professional holds the knife with the blade out of the back of the hand whicu necessitate the different designs in the blade and a slightly fuller handle than I would make for a conventional knife.So with that as a guide I made these two with one having a 5 1/2 in blade for sheep/fallow sized animals and a 7 1/4 inch one for work on cattle sized animals. Swamp kauri handles on the 1/8 in 1075 blades with black micarta pins.
  3. Who really cares if the set is traditional or not, it is a beauty in every sense of the word. That is some way to indroduce yourself Alex so welcome to the forum.
  4. Excellent idea @Alan Longmire I just mad a simple (ugly but it works) spring fuller so that is a good solution. Instead of a hardy hole stem it could have a pair of 1/2 in dowels on the bottom arm to slip into corresponding holes on an extension on the anvil. The more I think it through the better this solution makes sense so just some detail to think through now.
  5. I have been thinking through this and have still not finalised how to do it but I do have a very good engineering shop that I pass every week when I go to town. They have done a lot of work for me over the years so do have thier capability available if I need them. There are a few things I will need them to do in any case. The point to think through for me though is, how many die options will I reasonably need and how often will they need to be changed. The main problem I have is that my initial reason for the hammer is simply to relieve my shoulder and hand for when I want to explore more of this type of knifemaking but the possibility that I may want to delve deeper into it may change the complexity and number of dies so I do want to have this possibility in mind when I decide on the die holder whether it be simple bolt up as you say, the keyed wedge or less likely is the dovetail. I am thinking that a simple hammer, a set of fullering dies, maybe a butcher set and possibly a beveling die
  6. I have hopes of getting a decent lump for the anvil Geoff and if what I am hearing on the lockdown being eased that may be next week. I have not yet decided on how to mount any additional fullers etc but think I may go with a slot and key wedge system.
  7. I got these bits all cleaned up today. I had to get the engineer to press the old caked solid bearings off the 1 1/2 in shaft as I broke one of the pillow blocks trying it my way so when I was in town I picked up a replacent pillow block and two new bearings and a pair of leaf springs. The two lengths of box steel are what the main drive shaft will be mounted on to drive that beautiful big cast pulley. I will get a length of 1 1/2 x 1/2 to weld to the end of the shaft rather than to the pulley. I have the hammer which I had got some time back for another project that got shelved so it will be perfect for this. I will get the the base faced off and will find something at the steel yard to connect it to the spring and material to direct the drive accurately. As it stands the hammer weighs 28 lb so looking for an anvil stump that has a decent weight and mass to contain the energy. I have to get the pair of 4x2 box uprights and a few other small bits but apart from that I have the main components for US$130 so far so very pleased with progress.
  8. Must be fixed Doug as I can get to it now.
  9. I love every aspect of this stunner.
  10. I have been having a yarn with a customer from Australia about a small steel attached to the sheath and after a bit of thought on the subject I have bought some lengths of 6mm black spring steel so will make up a few to trial but expect I will be able to offer them with knives from the mini skinner size and longer. This is a piece of mild just to see what it will look like. I will cut them 6 1/2 in (165mm) long and useing the fuller I made for the job will have the grip notch 1 1/2 inches (40mm) from the top. I am undecided yet as to whether I will put a handle on or not. I may just drill a hole in the fullered part and put a split ring through like was often on the face of a farm knife but I will have the ring through the fullered section and have the steel down the seam side of the sheath. This is the spring fuloler to put the notch in the steel rod.. With the steel heated with the gas torch I put it in the fuller up to a mark (small hacksw cut) and give it a whack with a 2 1/2 lb hammer.Take note that I do not have any claimn on welding capability other than I can sort of make things stick together.
  11. A piece of angle iron with a slot for the tang sitting on the forge floor so you can set the blade in there and leave it till heated to right temp and then grab with tongs or pliers so that tooling is only in the forge for long enough to place the blade in and remove it when done. No heat build up at all for holding tool. If the angle iron is placed facing into the forge the spine of the blade (to just back from the tip) is held just off the forge floor for quicker through heating and the angle iron upstand keeps the tang from all the heat so stays in the softer state (in case you forgot to drill holes etc BEFORE the HT)
  12. Crisp lines and very nice visual.
  13. These were paochers Brian. Pig hunters here is NZ hunt very much in the same way as yoiu describe but many do not have anythin other than a neck guard on the dog and some have nothing at all. I make a pig sticker that is popular both here and in the US amongst my niche market customers.
  14. I had a video of pig hunting you would have enjoyed but cant get it to load. https://www.facebook.com/vasyl.eger/videos/10219905102729624/
  15. Sunrise over South Otago new Zealand this morning.
  16. Thanks Brian. That is the same advise I got as it turned out that a friend on a NZ hunting FB page is very clued up with cameras (has just gone professional photographer) and between his advise and others on the same page I am going to get the Cannon Powershot SX740 HS Black. It is on sale her for another 3 days at US$332The few advantages with the go pro as far as head band attachment etc didn't outweigh the quality of the Cannon. I will get the small flexible tripod and have a high tripod for use in the shed etc.The SX740HS is your travel companion with 40x Optical Zoom. Record all of life?s most treasured moments with 4K video and time-lapse; four times the resolution of full HD. Get up close with 40x optical zoom, zoom in to those far distances at pin sharp detail with 40x optical zoom and 80x zoom plus; the equivalent to a 24 mm 960 mm focal length. Snap your selfies with ease, the 180° tilt LCD screen enables you to snap your selfies while checking your appearance, whileSelf Portrait mode will ensure the perfect selfie. Share your photos instantly, with Wi-Fi and Bluetooth Low Energy Technology, keep your camera connected to your smart phone and transfer photos easily with the Camera Connect App. 20.3 Megapixels 40 x Optical Zoom Wi-Fi and Bluetooth Low Energy Technology 4K Video and Time Lapse Continuously shoot at up to 10 frames p er second 4.3-172.0 mm Focal Length (35 mm equivalent:24-960 mm) 180° tilt 3.0" LCD screen CMOS Sensor Transfer photos easily with the Camera Connect App. Built in Flash Manufacturer Warranty: 24 months
  17. I want to look at a better camera for videoing some of what I play with in the shed, maybe a hunt situation and other related events. I have been using my ph camera but it only allows for 8 minutes of video and it is narrow vertical part of the screen on youtube so have been wondering what you all use for this purpose. I have been thinking about the GoPro HERO8 and put it up here to get the opinion of those who know more about these things than I do as I dont want to rely on the counter jockey at the camera shops.
  18. I got the bits I want seperated from the rest so have something to clean up untill I can get the steel to carry on with. There is one more of the 4x2 box steel stands to retrieve from the pile but that is about all I can use of it for not.
  19. A pic of the stock I am doing at the moment just wetted to raise the grain which was sanded at 350, repeated twice at 600 and the second pic with the second coat of sanded in alkanet oil. Grain is filled so now the real finishing can be started with all the preporatry work is done.
  20. I use it 50/50 with water and leave the blades in for 7 minutes on SS damascus and like the result. I do it in the open doorway with big fan blowing fumes outside (and away from me of course) Plays havoc with any steelwork in the shed if the container is not completly sealed after use.
  21. Lovely work but I see screws that need timed.
  22. Thanks @Alan Longmire Between the simple pic that @Geoff Keyes added and the Rusty/Crusty I have a very good plan going forward. Just having to wait for the steel yard to open in two weeks (hopefullty unless the those in charge extend the level 3 past that timeframe).
  23. The one thing I notices is that you have a restriction at the mouth of the sheath and it belles out further down. There is no advantage to doing this as the width needed for the clearance of the blade can not be made any less at the mouth or the blade will cut it going in so parallel from the widest point of the blade is usually the way to go. Very good first effort though.
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