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Will Urban

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About Will Urban

  • Birthday 08/14/1991

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    Male
  • Location
    Union County NJ

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  1. If I'm assuming correct the phosphorus would make the dendritic pattern more visible but would lead to a lot of problems forging in terms of cracking and crumbling. Which would definitely explain most of my problems. What would a preferable phosphorous cutoff point be?
  2. Thanks daniel that was something that jumped out to me immediately as well the bloom iron itself isn't all that high so I need to dial back and figure out where I'm picking up almost a full tenth of a percent of phosphorus. I also noticed the copper and silicon numbers went up from bloom to crucible but I'm not sure how significant that is.
  3. So I have gotten the results. The bloom iron I've been using is the lower carbon and the crucible is obviously the other
  4. As soon as I get the results I will definitely post them to the forum.
  5. Not a good picture but here's why I'm curious.
  6. Jerrod, In most situations I would agree with you that simplifying information for the customer base is absolutely the best approach it confuses less people and leads to less frustration. However in this case I am always learning but do know enough about material science to make me dangerous haha, having a mechanical engineering degree. What I'm trying to see is if I can learn enough about this proprietary alloy that I would be able to source something similar enough that I could gain the same effect that the woodworkers using pm-v11 seem to say that they are gaining using this steel. I am not trying to copy anyones work just trying to learn if there is a better approach for a woodworking tool like this. I could easily use an established steel like o1 but then I'm not improving just replicating. I guess my best approach would be to test the steel and then compare the existing steels to that analysis. I had assumed I may not have been the first person to think this though seeing as this steel has been available for almost a decade.
  7. Alan, I feel as though that's one of those things you've been saying for a long time. It sounded too similar to how I talk about long forgotten projects. Kerri, I may try to see what I can do as far as testing it for personal use that is a really good idea since I currently have some bloomery iron and crucible steel out for chemical analysis I may be able to get one more test done with that. Honestly I figured it would be smoke and mirror myself but after hearing some of the reviews including my father's (and when it comes to sharp things he makes us knife makers look weak.) They all seem to say it takes a better edge and keeps it longer. Which makes me all the more curious. With a typical 20 to 30 degree edge on chisels and a bit more on planes it makes me wonder if it could be a good steel to use for other projects down the line. Cutting edge tools. Should have seen that coming. Gerald, That was my understanding as well as far as standards went and from what I've heard and seen I'm curious why this different steel would be any better than the old standards. I'd much rather just make them from 1095 O1 or even 80cRv2. But my dad was curious so I thought I'd ask the knowledge base. Thanks Will
  8. I was wondering if it was a "trade secret" type alloy since I havent come across any information other than what they provide on their website. It does seem to hold a better edge for longer so I am curious why this would be the case. I made a quick guess that it's probably a vanadium containing stainless able to get to 62 Hrc. But other than that I'm in the dark. I'd love to be able to replicate the performance with something similar. Without resorting to my standards for knife steels. Thanks
  9. Hello all, So my father and I have been doing a lot of looking at woodworking planes lately because he is a user/collector of hand planes. Most of the blades are o1 and a2 but there are also the blades from veritas which are labeled as pmv-11. Which is described as a cryo heat treated powder metallurgy steel. I'm curious if anyone knows more about it including up to chemical make up I'm curious why woodworkers think it's better. And more importantly what it is, stainless or carbon and if it can be sourced. We are looking to make irons for the Stanley 45 and 55. Thanks Will
  10. I would be interested in the Wilkinson Dudley. I can send a PM if it's still available
  11. I made mine from a huge old handled punch the museum I work at said it was rediculous so I was even more inclined to forge it by hand. We are set in 1830s so me and Dan waddell hes a member here as well forged it out water quenched the tool and made it it's still working great almost five years later
  12. Even with all the axes you make? I have mine set up so I commonly use mine as a set hammer and a flatter so I can set two edges or just to flatten pieces before heat treat it also helps for removing a ton of scale and evening bevels
  13. To help with the actual conversation I bought a 4 x 36 belt sander years ago and with practice and a 14 in simmonds multikut file I found that I could more accurately and more quickly get a blade ready for heat treat. Using the belt sander I would stall it alot and it didnt work well for anything.
  14. Alan why do you say the flatter hasn't paid for itself I use one almost every day in the shop? Sorry for the derail continue
  15. Also look up evenstads work on open hearth furnaces you can add or reduce carbon. Reducing carbon is much more finicky but would typically be done by lowering the air inlet closer to the base of your furnace to oxidize that cast iron more. And speaking from experience Alan is definitely correct I found the slag to work much better than the sand for this process. Will
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