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Will Urban

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About Will Urban

  • Birthday 08/14/1991

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    Union County NJ

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  1. I would be interested in the Wilkinson Dudley. I can send a PM if it's still available
  2. I made mine from a huge old handled punch the museum I work at said it was rediculous so I was even more inclined to forge it by hand. We are set in 1830s so me and Dan waddell hes a member here as well forged it out water quenched the tool and made it it's still working great almost five years later
  3. Even with all the axes you make? I have mine set up so I commonly use mine as a set hammer and a flatter so I can set two edges or just to flatten pieces before heat treat it also helps for removing a ton of scale and evening bevels
  4. To help with the actual conversation I bought a 4 x 36 belt sander years ago and with practice and a 14 in simmonds multikut file I found that I could more accurately and more quickly get a blade ready for heat treat. Using the belt sander I would stall it alot and it didnt work well for anything.
  5. Alan why do you say the flatter hasn't paid for itself I use one almost every day in the shop? Sorry for the derail continue
  6. Also look up evenstads work on open hearth furnaces you can add or reduce carbon. Reducing carbon is much more finicky but would typically be done by lowering the air inlet closer to the base of your furnace to oxidize that cast iron more. And speaking from experience Alan is definitely correct I found the slag to work much better than the sand for this process. Will
  7. So the pieces are out for testing and if all goes well I should be able to get the atomic absorption test done and possible oes as well to confirm results as this is not a steel this company will be familiar with. They are mostly focused on types of stainless alloys but my understanding is it is quite a large company. My friend is going to get these tests done "off the cuff" so to speak. I ended up sending a piece of my orishigane from bloom iron. The bloom iron I used for the orishigane and also the most successful wootz puck to date I was able to forge it to a .5x 1.25 by about 6inch long so far and only one or two small cracks I've needed to address. One comment was brought up to me that I haven't been doing so far. Before the roast does anyone grind their puck to remove any pock marking from the crucible and/or the cap on the top where the glass and top meet. Thanks
  8. So I'm a bit confused still on if I had to give them an ideal list of elements to look for what is typical to look for besides. Carbon sulphur phosphorus silicon vanadium manganese aluminum copper calcium. Thanks guys I'll be sending some pieces off for analysis within the next week. My plan was to test puck one which failed and puck four which was made with all known materials to see if I calculated carbon close to correct. As well as my consolidated bloom iron to know what I'm working with there.
  9. Tim as far as why ingot number one didnt work out I would assume it's all 4 of the options including a 5th which would be assuming too many variables which is why ingot number 4 was made much more simply and more repeatable I have large chunk of wrought I used for the test and I used white cast window weights for the cast. I had both grey cast and white cast but I heard that white was better it was more likely to form carbides. Will
  10. So tim and everyone, I have a question there is a good chance that I can get some tests done by a friend who works for a steel company in pa. He said that I should tell him the elements that I would be looking for specifically so he can tell the guys what to test for he will try first to test with a certain type of xrf test. And he said if that doesn't work then it may cost some for the tests but besides for carbon and some carbide formers I know what should I also look for. I decided I really need to know what I'm working with if I want to actually get good results. My hope is to test raw bloom, consolidated bar bloomery iron. And the last crucible puck where I carefully recorded everything from known wrought and cast to see if my assumed carbon and vanadium is correct As always thanks in advance. You guys have already helped immensely. Will
  11. Let me try to reply to all this awesome information piece by piece. Will w I went back and read that section over yes same book. I absolutely would have to agree with the necessity of soaking which is mistake 1 on the first try. I thermo cycled where I should have done a roasting heat. On a plus side I have tons of iron oxide. Tim First off thanks for taking the time to spell out numerous issues I was having with this approach. I am planning on setting up a 5 crucible test with parts from one bloom. one as a control and the other 4 changing some of these processes to eliminate variables and find out what this ore is making. 1. I didnt know brown glass was iron sulphate good to learn something although not good to learn three runs in. I assume the lead oxide from the green doesn't effect the steel. I was pondering using beach sand as my flux so it will work as a flux but it will further add authenticity to the approach if my thinking is correct. Perhaps you could elaborate on that if you have any experience there? 2. When you say low heat do you mean not much above about 1000 to 1100C . 3. I would think the assumption of sulphur to be true it acts a lot like other metals I've forged with sulphur. But I am a bit leery to start alloying in more variables like manganese and calcium without knowing if it's the bloom iron or the glass or both. The bloom iron I have been using is from ore that bethlehem steel was using I believe it's from the cornwall mine so I can probably look up the ore element analysis. 4. Ironically the way I did cool it was keeping it in the furnace until color was gone then taking it out an air cooling. I will try roasting in a propane forge with a thermocouple in an iron oxide tub to see if that improves the matter. But without analyzing my way of making bloom iron with consistent ore source and the crucibles after it'll always be guesswork no? And in theory every run could be different regardless if it's from bloom iron depending where the carbon is situated in the bloom(its usually lower as that area has more time to carburize in my experience. Thanks for the encouragement. I think you misread the area on thermocycling I thermocycled to above acm then let it cool till I could touch it. Then after those cycles I brought it up to orange hot and tried to keep it in the orange red orange the entire time. It did get close to a yellow heat a time or two. So if I'm reading the rest of what your saying right then the first thing I should do with ingot number 2 is roast for about 16 to 30 hours then thermocycle in the propane to slightly decarburize the surface then forge at a lower temperature slower. Thanks for all the information this is almost too much to digest but being the 2nd time I read through that I hope I got to everything you said. I will definitely be trying to fix these things and get better success
  12. Thanks Alan I have many times over as well as watched any videos with al pendray I also bought John verhoevens book and read it cover to cover all of these options help put the puzzle together but without testing these somehow I feel there is still too much guessing involved. Without knowing the carbon I don't know if I can accurately gauge anything from forging temps to colors. I think after talking to mark green this may even affect the amount of time needed to soak and to thermo cycle.
  13. Hello again. So I tried forging out the first puck with I'd say rather poor success. I thermo cycled the puck 6 times before beginning to forge it above the acm down to cool to the touch. Then tried to keep the puck around a medium to dull orange never working that long before reheating understanding there is a narrow forging window. I am working to get a propane forge with a way to gauge temp rather than working in an 1800s living history museum with a coal forge and by eye temperature. While I am still working in this manner does anyone have any tips on keeping this material more workable and less likely to crumble or crack. I am wondering if the material itself is too high of carbon or if I'm not trying to forge it correctly being mostly from boom iron there is some guessing involved. I'm including two pictures of the aftermath a large loss of material. Also if anyone has any suggestions for where to look to get metals tested for chemical composition I'd be very curious to know where you source your lab tests from. Thank you
  14. Hey all, The second run seems much more promising. I do have one question regarding forging these. How Important is thermal cycling at the beginning and is there a difference in terms of fuels for forging ie. Propane coal or charcoal for which is better. I started forging the first of them in a coal forge. Thanks
  15. I'm thinking it's because I used bloomery iron and whatever I lost was into the glass as slag
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