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Will Urban

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About Will Urban

  • Birthday 08/14/1991

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    Union County NJ

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  1. Alan I may be able to get my smelting team in on this if it's a go. We could bring everything needed to run the smelt. Please feel free to contact me regarding planning.
  2. Alan ill get the serial number for you according to anvils in America it does fall in a very grey area of the dates as far as what I have.i have long speculated myself which is why I haven't touched it besides forging on it. I'd love to touch it up to get maybe a four inch flat but not at the cost of ruining it. Its a great anvil regardless and it seems for the anvil size it may have been a special order due to the hardy being 1.25 inch
  3. Hey guys its been a couple days and I got some pictures of the anvil. Just to clarify I have owned and used the anvil for about 6 years but have started to work more on longer blades and the pits and dings do add some to the time it takes finishing. Just figured it was worth a question. I have a 130 pound fisher that has an almost perfect face so I switch between the two currently depending in what I need to do.
  4. hey guys I have a 1908 hay budden that has seen its fair share of use over the years for a majority of its life it was used in a blacksmiths shop where it shows the use of proofing chisels and punches along the feet i appreciate the history there but the face has a moderate sway and has a fair amount of hammer dings. Being primarily a bladesmith im curious about sanding down to good steel i know the face is still hard because it has a good rebound and I used hardness test files. Now it seems that these anvils after 1907 were a top and bottom half welded together the bottom half mild or wrought. And the top half tool steel welded together. My thought is I should be able to smooth the surface as long as I go slow and careful. I'll get a picture or two of it up tomorrow
  5. I wouldn't have thought it was soft.It was surprising wasn't super expensive and it was listed as wide bands so probably wouldn't be great but ill definitely check before I do anything to it. Thanks you should check into it they are fairly low priced if they have already been sliced but not etched
  6. Will Urban

    Space rock

    So I probably shouldn't be able to online shop during lockdown because for me it means new equipment consumables(mostly belts for my new 2x72 and my 12 inch disc) and steel all costly enough as we all know. But this one was a bit different I've been wanting to make a knife or something a bit larger using a combination of bloomery iron, hearth steel from previous smelts ,and i wanted something a bit different so here we are at the point of the story. I just got a campo meteorite piece delivered to my door. Its about a 3 pound or 1450ish grams. What I would like to do is take a few slices off one side and forge it while maintaining the integrity and if possible the widmanstatten pattern on the remaining part. That would be for future projects. Anybody have success cutting something with 6% nickel alloyed I imagine it'll chew up bandsaw blades
  7. The benefit to Instant is it devolves really easily and you can get it much stronger that way in solution for an etch or soak. Regular coffee isn't quite as potent for metal. But for most circumstances instant coffee is the worst caffeine swill there is to drink.
  8. Billyo's got a good method i tend to to two etch cycles myself and card back the oxides with steel wool as well. I tend to use a 3.5 to one ratio of water to acid when diluting most people say between 3 and 4. I do like the instant coffee soak for darkening the low spots though. I have been finding windex works pretty well at neutralizing the acid as well I'm pretty sure I read that here. I've been trying it with good success ymmv.
  9. Rob Thanks its a huge step up from files and hand sanding. Although had I not learned drawfiling years ago I never would have made it this far. Thanks
  10. Would this have been better putting this i. Design and critique i wasn't sure.
  11. I've noticed that quickly there are some things that I've noticed came pretty easy like shaping long areas quickly with a large contact wheel pushing into the wheel.. and also using a slack belt setup for contours and such.. but keeping grinds even on a flat platen are not. I ended up getting a 2 hp lesson inverter rated motor and a kbac 27d vfd however since i run 110 to the shop instead of 220 the 2 hp is only generating 1.5 hp. Thanks. I definitely learned from this one in very excited to move onto the next which ironically is a going to be a big step up I have a single edge 900ad Norse blade I'm just waiting on heat treat to really get into.
  12. No in reality it started the proper thickness for a chopper and I usually shape the handles to a preform drawing which made the previous way of doing things much easier. That said I got a little lets say overenthusiastic at lower grits. Overall I'm happy with how it came out and I definitely recognize a lot of things that I did to try to fix mistakes along the way. I definitely was grinding to slow initially on the handles after they were glued up. I wasn't as confident as I should have been ripping through the final shape at higher speeds. And I probably also left the pins a little too proud of the wood. That said I thought about reshaping the handle as there was plenty of meat left on it but I thought it would be good practice regardless. Thanks for the comments. I definitely learned a ton on this mostly about how not to do things with a belt grinder
  13. wow why didn't I have one of these belt grinders years ago. I finally have something I think is worthy of the craftsmanship here patternwelded blade 15n20 and 1084 about 150 layers. I'm not sure what kind of wood considering it was free and came from a chunk of flooring but the grain is beautiful. Anyway I'd love to hear some feedback on what you would do different. Its far from perfect but I think it came out well.
  14. If I'm assuming correct the phosphorus would make the dendritic pattern more visible but would lead to a lot of problems forging in terms of cracking and crumbling. Which would definitely explain most of my problems. What would a preferable phosphorous cutoff point be?
  15. Thanks daniel that was something that jumped out to me immediately as well the bloom iron itself isn't all that high so I need to dial back and figure out where I'm picking up almost a full tenth of a percent of phosphorus. I also noticed the copper and silicon numbers went up from bloom to crucible but I'm not sure how significant that is.
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