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Will Urban

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Everything posted by Will Urban

  1. Alan I may be able to get my smelting team in on this if it's a go. We could bring everything needed to run the smelt. Please feel free to contact me regarding planning.
  2. Alan ill get the serial number for you according to anvils in America it does fall in a very grey area of the dates as far as what I have.i have long speculated myself which is why I haven't touched it besides forging on it. I'd love to touch it up to get maybe a four inch flat but not at the cost of ruining it. Its a great anvil regardless and it seems for the anvil size it may have been a special order due to the hardy being 1.25 inch
  3. Hey guys its been a couple days and I got some pictures of the anvil. Just to clarify I have owned and used the anvil for about 6 years but have started to work more on longer blades and the pits and dings do add some to the time it takes finishing. Just figured it was worth a question. I have a 130 pound fisher that has an almost perfect face so I switch between the two currently depending in what I need to do.
  4. hey guys I have a 1908 hay budden that has seen its fair share of use over the years for a majority of its life it was used in a blacksmiths shop where it shows the use of proofing chisels and punches along the feet i appreciate the history there but the face has a moderate sway and has a fair amount of hammer dings. Being primarily a bladesmith im curious about sanding down to good steel i know the face is still hard because it has a good rebound and I used hardness test files. Now it seems that these anvils after 1907 were a top and bottom half welded together the bottom half mi
  5. I wouldn't have thought it was soft.It was surprising wasn't super expensive and it was listed as wide bands so probably wouldn't be great but ill definitely check before I do anything to it. Thanks you should check into it they are fairly low priced if they have already been sliced but not etched
  6. Will Urban

    Space rock

    So I probably shouldn't be able to online shop during lockdown because for me it means new equipment consumables(mostly belts for my new 2x72 and my 12 inch disc) and steel all costly enough as we all know. But this one was a bit different I've been wanting to make a knife or something a bit larger using a combination of bloomery iron, hearth steel from previous smelts ,and i wanted something a bit different so here we are at the point of the story. I just got a campo meteorite piece delivered to my door. Its about a 3 pound or 1450ish grams. What I would like to do is take a few s
  7. The benefit to Instant is it devolves really easily and you can get it much stronger that way in solution for an etch or soak. Regular coffee isn't quite as potent for metal. But for most circumstances instant coffee is the worst caffeine swill there is to drink.
  8. Billyo's got a good method i tend to to two etch cycles myself and card back the oxides with steel wool as well. I tend to use a 3.5 to one ratio of water to acid when diluting most people say between 3 and 4. I do like the instant coffee soak for darkening the low spots though. I have been finding windex works pretty well at neutralizing the acid as well I'm pretty sure I read that here. I've been trying it with good success ymmv.
  9. Rob Thanks its a huge step up from files and hand sanding. Although had I not learned drawfiling years ago I never would have made it this far. Thanks
  10. Would this have been better putting this i. Design and critique i wasn't sure.
  11. I've noticed that quickly there are some things that I've noticed came pretty easy like shaping long areas quickly with a large contact wheel pushing into the wheel.. and also using a slack belt setup for contours and such.. but keeping grinds even on a flat platen are not. I ended up getting a 2 hp lesson inverter rated motor and a kbac 27d vfd however since i run 110 to the shop instead of 220 the 2 hp is only generating 1.5 hp. Thanks. I definitely learned from this one in very excited to move onto the next which ironically is a going to be a big step up I have a s
  12. No in reality it started the proper thickness for a chopper and I usually shape the handles to a preform drawing which made the previous way of doing things much easier. That said I got a little lets say overenthusiastic at lower grits. Overall I'm happy with how it came out and I definitely recognize a lot of things that I did to try to fix mistakes along the way. I definitely was grinding to slow initially on the handles after they were glued up. I wasn't as confident as I should have been ripping through the final shape at higher speeds. And I probably also left the pins a little too proud
  13. wow why didn't I have one of these belt grinders years ago. I finally have something I think is worthy of the craftsmanship here patternwelded blade 15n20 and 1084 about 150 layers. I'm not sure what kind of wood considering it was free and came from a chunk of flooring but the grain is beautiful. Anyway I'd love to hear some feedback on what you would do different. Its far from perfect but I think it came out well.
  14. If I'm assuming correct the phosphorus would make the dendritic pattern more visible but would lead to a lot of problems forging in terms of cracking and crumbling. Which would definitely explain most of my problems. What would a preferable phosphorous cutoff point be?
  15. Thanks daniel that was something that jumped out to me immediately as well the bloom iron itself isn't all that high so I need to dial back and figure out where I'm picking up almost a full tenth of a percent of phosphorus. I also noticed the copper and silicon numbers went up from bloom to crucible but I'm not sure how significant that is.
  16. So I have gotten the results. The bloom iron I've been using is the lower carbon and the crucible is obviously the other
  17. As soon as I get the results I will definitely post them to the forum.
  18. Jerrod, In most situations I would agree with you that simplifying information for the customer base is absolutely the best approach it confuses less people and leads to less frustration. However in this case I am always learning but do know enough about material science to make me dangerous haha, having a mechanical engineering degree. What I'm trying to see is if I can learn enough about this proprietary alloy that I would be able to source something similar enough that I could gain the same effect that the woodworkers using pm-v11 seem to say that they are gaining u
  19. Alan, I feel as though that's one of those things you've been saying for a long time. It sounded too similar to how I talk about long forgotten projects. Kerri, I may try to see what I can do as far as testing it for personal use that is a really good idea since I currently have some bloomery iron and crucible steel out for chemical analysis I may be able to get one more test done with that. Honestly I figured it would be smoke and mirror myself but after hearing some of the reviews including my father's (and when it comes to sharp things he makes us knife mak
  20. I was wondering if it was a "trade secret" type alloy since I havent come across any information other than what they provide on their website. It does seem to hold a better edge for longer so I am curious why this would be the case. I made a quick guess that it's probably a vanadium containing stainless able to get to 62 Hrc. But other than that I'm in the dark. I'd love to be able to replicate the performance with something similar. Without resorting to my standards for knife steels. Thanks
  21. Hello all, So my father and I have been doing a lot of looking at woodworking planes lately because he is a user/collector of hand planes. Most of the blades are o1 and a2 but there are also the blades from veritas which are labeled as pmv-11. Which is described as a cryo heat treated powder metallurgy steel. I'm curious if anyone knows more about it including up to chemical make up I'm curious why woodworkers think it's better. And more importantly what it is, stainless or carbon and if it can be sourced. We are looking to make irons for the Stanley 45 and 55.
  22. I would be interested in the Wilkinson Dudley. I can send a PM if it's still available
  23. I made mine from a huge old handled punch the museum I work at said it was rediculous so I was even more inclined to forge it by hand. We are set in 1830s so me and Dan waddell hes a member here as well forged it out water quenched the tool and made it it's still working great almost five years later
  24. Even with all the axes you make? I have mine set up so I commonly use mine as a set hammer and a flatter so I can set two edges or just to flatten pieces before heat treat it also helps for removing a ton of scale and evening bevels
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