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Toni

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Finland
  • Interests
    Blades.
  1. So, I some time ago got myself a double sided diamond stone, been trying sharpening with it a bit, it's going okay, though maybe I need a bit more patience. Anyways, What's the proper technique to use? Some tell you to do a slicing motion on top of the stone, which has done alright for me. Some tell you to do a back 'n forth motion, which has given me the best edges so far. And some tell you to do a circling motion, which I have found quite bothersome as the hilts of some knives seem to get in the way.
  2. Thank you. I really like that kind of an "s" curve in things quite a lot.
  3. First knife in a couple of years. Did some knives back then, but was too eager to get things done to properly learn. Now moving on and actually learning things!
  4. Thank you! I wish there was some collection of semi-sensible things people say to do to your steel that doesn't really work as advertised, like this and edge packing.
  5. Might aswell ask it in this thread. I've heard talk about grain flow, or how forging something makes the grains directions go in line the item's shape. Is this complete bull? Like, if you make a crank handle vaguely in the shape of "z" the forged handle will have grains going in the shape of "z", while a ground or cut one will have all the grains going in the same direction. I hope someone get's what I mean, not really sure how to explain this.
  6. Do you know any traditions on how a maker's mark should be oriented? I've been told that if it's a symbol instead of text it should be oriented in the following way: If it's a blade for use the mark should be the right way up when the blade's tip downwards, and if it's a show piece the mark should be upright when the tip of the blade is upwards. Have you heard any similiar stuff? It probably doesn't matter much in reality how and where you put it, but it would be interesting to hear about any traditions you might know of.
  7. So, let's say I make a knife and sell it to some guy in some country x. A week later it turns out the type of a knife I have sold is illegal in that country. Is it mine or the buyers responsibility? If I start selling knives do I have to check every country's knife laws after I get an order from one?
  8. 1. Sole-Proprietor, or the equilavent of one in Finland. 2. Miscellaneous metal work, but I am aiming to focus on knives. This won't be my day job either, just something small on the side. 3. Now, this is something I hadn't thought about for some reason. Good thing I made this thread!
  9. Thanks, I had been struggling some with the forum search tool.
  10. Just something I have been wondering about. The way I see it, in the custom knife business there are two kinds of names: Ones that have a really professional kind of a feeling, like "John Doe Custom Knives" or "Alabama Knife Forge". The other category are more fantastical ones that kind of lean on the more mythical aspect of steelworking, like "The Iron Bear Forge", or "Crusader Blade Shop". Which sort of names do you feel serve the purposes of being a business better? Do you feel that you are prone to trust the products of the "professionally" named shops more? Which generates more hits and sales?
  11. I see a lot of people around the internet recommend stuff like two one-hour temperings for knives. Is there a reason these need to be two separate temperings instead of one two-hour temper? What is achieved in the second tempering that lacks in the first?
  12. So, while making a knife, what is the difference if I a)Heat the whole piece and only quench the edge. b)Heat only the edge and only quench the edge. c)Heat only the edge and "quench" the whole piece. Assume that the whole item will be equally tempered in an oven.
  13. I'm pretty new to this stuff, but what I have been reading about heat treating it seems like a very precise process. Yet a lot of guys seem to be doing it with very basic equipment. Especially normalizing and annealing seem to require very precise control. Is it possible to properly normalize and anneal stuff with a very basic forge and no heat measurment equipment? In what ways can you do it?
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