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Kerri Duncan

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    Norfolk, VA, USA
  • Interests
    Learning about metal and fab/forge/foundry applications and machining ferrous, precious and non precious materials- LEARNING!

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  1. Brian- I just cant do anything about it. I truly wish I could have a better space. Had to move the engraving setup (beginners stereo-scope and ball) to the bench as the downstairs has been re-organized for family stuff. Only other place I can put it would be in the outside shed. I've sewn a cover for it and will be building a hard storage box as well for it and the arm-stand.
  2. I had looked up the version from Smock Knives on Utube- makes sense and your note about "removes or greatly reduces the need for a cyclone to begin with..." does ring true- But I am moving some electronic thingimabobs into the shop and have a microscope as well to contend with the dust with. (And mama bear dont like the tot playing in the dust either...) So Ill be putting covers on a LOT of things as well as the ventilation! I appreciate your input! Thank you
  3. Looking at the cyclone style "Dust Deputy" and wondered if anyone has used or has input on using them in a "metal" (not wood) shop? Did a cursory search and have read several threads for dust collection- Im setting up a grinding section to the garage thanks to a recent surface grinder find that followed me home. So figured I would move the grinders into a dedicated space to contain as much as possible. Read Neils air baffle cleaner and that would be the best option- but Im in a one car garage and only have a limited area to play in. I already use 3M respirators and have an overhead circulating filter like used in woodshops. My best "air filters" are actually strong magnets hung about the shop in baggies to catch errant floaties (easy to clean- turn the baggie inside out off the magnet and toss!) I have 2 of the 20 inch box fans as well with furnace filters going in the main garage area to keep dust down as well.
  4. Thanks folks- The 'Beards give sage advice again... Jake- Think I will take a tine end near the tip for some quick pickle forks (drill, fit a ferrule with cap to cover the pith and pop a silver 2 tine fork body without a crank into it and epoxy set it in place. @Alan- understood about salting them- the skull bits I have removed down to the button- and the pith has an almost marrow like paste in it along with a sponge-ish bony matrix. Smells a treat- Im sure the vagabond cats outside the shop are curious- Think Ill just put it in the air vent to the outside and run the fan for a week- see if that speeds the process. The Cactus Juice "Pro user" near me says I can vacuum and harden at any stage AFTER the smell is gone- but the juice is no good to infuse any other material after treating a fresh(ish) or moist item like antler. Heard from him this morning- Pics on the way- as soon as the shop is permitted and the City has their final say...
  5. So the first thought was this should go in "Fit and Finish" But those topics were about finished items... This- is not a finished item. It is fresh. Co-worker is late coming in one morning... finally gets there (I'm the night shift he gets to relieve)...hands me a set of nice deer antlers with skull material and fur bits clinging on to them- fairly fresh by the looks of it (still reddish tint and wet)... Cause of death- Acura @70mph. He lost his car, and wants me to make a knife handle with the antlers. (Tow truck was nice enough to drop him off at work) I have read that wood needs to be less than 10% humidity and dry. My moisture-meter wont give me a reading on the antler surface- but I know the pithy center is probably still porus/moist near the button/base. I want to "Cactus Juice" these for a better finish in the end. All my reading has pointed to older antlers being stabilized- nothing on how to dry or prep fresh antlers... So do I just let them hang out in the rafters for a year then try to do something with them or can I speed up the process by some other means? Thanks in advance and I appreciate your time- hope the holidays are good to you folks! Kerri
  6. I like the little curved blade on the bottom- Keep it up and hope all is well! Kerri
  7. By the way... If your goggles are fogging... Your mask seal is not good. Forgot to mention this earlier. It's the bridge of the nose that causes the most problems. This is another reason for the silicone masks... They flex/fit your jawline and cheek better.
  8. The P100 masks from Woodcraft are comfortable and allow for goggles/eyewear- P100 masks these are also not as expensive as the 3M VOC filtered masks. -The masks are rated for Silica dust, coal dust- you dont need to worry about the VOC or active carbon filters unless you are doing things like paint or organics. I personally like these as I can wear my glasses over the nose piece and they are easy to wipe out and clean. For eye wear- please look into the 3M glasses- 3M polycarbonate glasses I swear Im not a Home Depot sponsor- but they have the best prices local to me! These are a 4 pack, and are comfortable. Your mileage may vary- but I have had good results from these. For Forging work I use a pair of IR/UV glasses (separate thread). If you are doing wood and metals- sparks can ignite the dust- just be careful- a Kiddie fire extinguisher is cheap and easy to keep near the bucket as well. Best of luck in the limited space- If you rent- do NOT let the landlord know... if you own- read the insurance policy and make sure to cover your 6. Looking forward to seeing your work!
  9. Larry- buy some outlet plugs like the ones folks use to keep the kiddies hands from shock- and use them in the outlet below your grinder- and any unused outlets in the room... you dont want to create a surface fault or an arc potential. Suggestions to eliminate "missed" dust and particulate material and protect your floors. 1- isolate this room from the rest of the house- cover any vents or ducts- yes- it will get hot/cold faster... but you are containing the dust to one room. Please wear a respirator. 2- get some strong magnets like from hard drives, speakers or some Nd strong magnets. Put them in plastic sandwich baggies and hang them around the room you grind in- you will be AMAZED (or creeped out) at the amount of black fuzzy magnetic dust you are creating... to clean- turn the baggie inside out- toss- no muss no fuss. Close the door to the room when you are grinding 3- to go along with #2- get a 20 inch box fan (these are like 20 bucks)... go to filter aisle and buy HEPA 20x20 furnace filters and set them up blowing AWAY from you with the filter on the intake side. To increase the collecting potential lightly spray PAM across the intake side. Let this run for 30 minutes after you leave the room. 4- Home depot sells "POLY WALL" sheeting- its a film you can lay over the floor and wall. I have this behind my lathe and over my workbench and it easily wipes off grit, greases and schmutz from my hobbies. The link is in the POLY name above from Home Depot- about 20 bucks for 4x8 sheet and the clips are like 2 bucks- and it rolls up so you can pick it up in a car.
  10. Probably not biased... I guess I should have just asked what HT ovens do folks use and what are some Pro's and Con's to look for when starting out. I'm a bit of a data nerd so the links CHRIS C shot over are great. I'm also a fan of MatWeb and GlobalSpec for generic metal info!
  11. Thanks C.... the links are awesome and I'm have some time during the hurricane to start the deep dive. Just scratching the surface, and am already swimming in "options" ... Here is the basis for my statement of iOs and phone app... "A TAP Controller app is available for iOS devices and is accessible using an Evenheat or SDS Industries supplied USB dongle or, if you prefer, an Ethernet connection. The TAP app allows the user to monitor the kiln, develop and edit programs and perform TAP Controller functions from a networked iOS compatible computer, tablet or mobile device." -From Evenheat TAP info
  12. OK guys/gals/folks and friends- been hard at work getting a few things set up for my garage evolution to a small shop space... I know I will eventually be putting the money into a HT Oven before New Years... and looking at Evenheat ovens. (Specifically the KO 22.5) TAP, Genesis, Rampmaster, add temp/hold temp Set-Pro... Im not looking to buy something I will never use half the features on- and in my stumbles across the web have not found a breakdown or comparison of the various functions. (Or what the multi-level functions are applicable to) I know for forge and knife work I am heading into these steels: 10XX steels 15N20 O1/D2/W1 I have a bit of 4140 from a friend (want to make some hammers and tooling) ATS-34 (no forge- stock removal only for this) This is the most exotic I have now and I have a fair amount of it from a closeout I stumbled upon at a machine shop (yes- I bought it all) 440C (stock removal) So my question is this- WHAT controller makes sense? I dont need to control it from my phone or get updates (not an Apple/iOs guy anyway)... I may be missing the point of having a variety of pre-programmed options... Yes I want to eventually use this oven for other things as well: Precipitation HT for Aluiminum parts (I have a foundry and sand-cast 356 and 6061 parts) <--- NOT A PROFESSIONAL- Amatuer HACK-level for now Springs Ageing Bronze and annealing Silver wire coils/pieces Gunparts and Case-hardening items I like the ability to load and program from my laptop (want to do data-centric "Lot" letters for batches of knives and for documentation) and collect the time/temp tracking data- but Im not sure what I need- Looking for guidance and hey- lets face it... Im a noob- so if ya get a chuckle out of my 10-thumb, ham-handed and left foot approach to this- you are NOT alone- Im laughing at myself every day trying to learn! I realize there is no "One system fits all" solution but as a startup the knives are first and then the other things are "bonus" for usage. Thanks in advance folks- I am really appreciative of the body of knowledge here. Kerri
  13. Thanks Alan- It is the ABS Class but in NC at Haywood- no libel or slander here- I have TONS of respect for the folks that are building the art and craft and teaching. Just when I asked ?s I feel like Im getting short answers when Im looking for the long view. Nothing against those folks- just trying to use my resources to gather info. Understood about the book explanation vs a typed web-posting... I was looking for a bit of a skills progression or basics layout so I can go in with not having to dwadle on learning underpinning skills and focusing on the "meat" and not killing my shoulder either (being physically as well as mentally prepped). Thanks for the skill primer as well- Im still learning the pein thing... " Welcome to the madness!"... you say... One would say madness can be translated to inspiration that happens where its not expected- and so let the madness begin! HA! Thanks again- Im off to breakfast and then domestic chores!
  14. Morning folks! This was a toss-up to put here or in the "Hot Work" category... but seeing as I am: a newbie of the first order to knife-making (three official "blades" and 2 classes under my belt and a ton of literature digested) not very experienced with the forge... I own one, I have an anvil- both are used as Christmas chatski makers and in the off season are shelves for other things (heck ANY horizontal surface counts as a shelf if not in use!) a neophyte to this forum and posting here I think the "Beginners place" is appropriate to start from... So Im looking at the 2 week Intro to Bladesmithing course from another knife-centric group (Dont know if I can name names but the course title should give it away) ... and have a question or two about it. It was a gift from my wife to "speed up" my hobby and as well provide me some serious get outta town time thanks to a job that is a bit more stressful than 9-5 work. I cannot find a "Curriculum" for this course to pre-study and cannot find any intro exercises to try. When I asked in another forum I was told "Just practice forging..." And to be honest am a bit leery about asking on the Courses' Main sponsoring agency's forum as if its not already up- there may be a reason why. I am an adult learner- but I am not shy from the fact I get frustrated easily and would love to be more confident in the proper skills prior to going. I have a set of challenges I am trying to overcome before the class to maximize my take-away from the course. Not saying Woe is me at all- Im saying I want to Pre-Learn to NOT be frustrated and to comprehend more, faster, and in depth when I do get there. I have the Mark Aspery Intro Blacksmith book w the knife-making section, ALL Mr. JPH's books as well as several from Loveless, Terozoula, McCreight and others. Im hopefully starting w Aspery this month. Anyone care to weigh in and give direction or some insight behind the curtain? I have really enjoied the forum for reading to this point- and appreciate what every contributor has put into it. Its my fallback web-read when I'm looking to casually read/learn/dream! Attached are the first 2 knives I made- "Camp" knives for me and the wife- no forging- just stock removal... Just so you guys know Im legit in the newbie category- HA! As always thank you for the gathering of information and like minded souls here. I hope this note finds you all safe, well, at peace- and in good spirits! Kerri In Norfolk where the rain has made my okra grow to bananna -size and the beans are storming the fence!
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