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Kerri Duncan

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  • Website URL
    http://www.silverforgestudio.com

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Norfolk, VA, USA
  • Interests
    Learning about metal and fab/forge/foundry applications and machining ferrous, precious and non precious materials- LEARNING!

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  1. Make a deal with the boss to pay a little at a time- over time it will add up! Offer to "buy" a new anvil for the shop and you take the old one. Does you 2 things- locks a price in (biggie) and helps you start saving (albeit forcefully) for a big one for your own place! Knife is awesome as well!
  2. Good on you for being pro active on the cleaning front with the forge- at my local guild many of the folks just show up 30 min after everyone else gets stuff out and leaves about an hour before close so they dont ahve to play in the dirt... But that is not everyone- just some folks. Great idea on the 20 bucks- I usually just leave my cash in the soda jar so he doesnt know it. I can certainly appreciate your efforts! And already making the cash on knives- you sir are far ahead of some folks to say the least! Best of luck and keep on making! Cheers!
  3. In all honesty- some great blades are made with post anvils- google Sea Robin, Post Anvil and browse a bit... as for functionality- I would encourage you to watch "Lewis Razors" on YouTube about his anvil- Although technically razors, not knives... Some very fine edges and shapes come from his post anvil. You are correct that your Vulcan would be a treasure in many shops. (Mine included) One thing you may consider is offering to rent/lease an anvil or shop time from the fellow who previously hosted the forge. In my experience folks show up- use your stuff and leave... They leave a mess, a bunch of paperwork, and generally take your time for themselves as it is offered. The ones who offer to help, clean up, and respect or offer to come in off days to clean or pitch in are the ones who build the relationships and foster the recharging of the "battery" that makes the shop space tick and work for all. Potentially offer to be a broom-slave for a day, bring coffee, learn through fellowship and be up front you are looking for shop time and will be glad to help out... you have nothing to lose. And a friendship/fellowship to gain. Maybe a different perspective would change your consideration- work out the "how" to afford a new anvil using what you already have. I certainly am all for you getting exactly what you want- but for now what you "need" is the more pressing issue (Shop space)... concentrate your efforts on the search for what you like in an anvil. But get a space first! I personally started on a "Silversmiths" anvil- a solid 23 pound tapered block with one curved edge and radiused edges for making flatware. This was driven into a pithy pine stump (NOT the best of bases- but it worked) Hope this finds you safe well and at peace- best of luck in your search.
  4. I can appreciate your frustrations John! I see it about weekly in another world from other folks perspective. Im sorry cooler heads didn't prevail initially also. As a fairly overall new fellow here I can not say much for the actions of A36 or Rebar (or forged hotdogs for that matter)... But folks are quick to light the torches and gather the pitchforks- this has not changed. But in a different life outside the shop I can tell you the rules of site policing have gotten very restrictive and although it may have come from inside the group- it may as well be external image pressure. WHAT you type is free speech- WHERE you can say/type it is not. These rules are in server contracts, hosting agreements, FCC mandates, Paid advertisers- you name it- its got a rule to follow. And not always from the sources you would expect- We have to reply to any "Server Farm" report for abuse based on a language screen and members can be "auto-banned" for certain character strings or word combinations. As well we get "feedback" from our advertisers that can be direct pressure. These are notoriously abject and evolving/dynamic and these lists are generated every 24 hours in our case. This is a royal PAIN when a member even so much as has a birthday that falls on April 20 (due to 420 being used in the weed industry). It is a nanny state- digitally. Please know I am NOT defending anyone- but the trigger word list is looooooong and the easiest way to police is to remove the subject, re-examine it and document. Religious tag words are the trigger here. The bigger the forum or audience- global views and the digital image folks are trying to portray to gain following or to become a resource play into it as well. As well- the "bigger" the flock... the less "variety" it can tolerate. Seems like a big nothing in the overall- just some food for thought. (And, as Mr. Longmire professed- I too, prefer Nathans- but Hebrew National is a close second!) Too bad this forum doesnt have the dancing hotdog emoji... It would go SO well here! Just a different perspective guys- the moderators dont "Hawk" every thread (and dont want too!) so its a damage control issue for them. Be safe guys and Hope your weeks are filled with changing seasons and great coffee! (Dont ban me all you tea-lovers!)
  5. Understood- I am going to have to learn Japanese to make sense of the eastern styles vs the western... And thank you for the reply! Kerri
  6. @Joël Mercier Indeed an edge that looks good and will feel good as well- a question from an aspiring wannabee about the petty- How thin do you take the edge pre HT and is there a secondary bevel added after HT? Once again- beautiful- Bravo
  7. The curious point that makes this different from burls is the Fungus/mold that created the spalting- crumbling wood is often a sign of structural cell damage and the lignum being compromised- an inherent LACK of fiber stability... versus th burl being tight ingrained knots of lignum and centralized fiber bundles. Would be an interesting experiment to say the least- I would think it may dry faster than a burl- and I would not think boiling it would be benificial as the heat+water will swell the already damaged fibers. Please take pics and do this as a WIP so others can know!
  8. @Alex Middleton Chris is spot on- Anchor seal is a professional grade product. In Woods with knots, curves or anything resembling "Figure" it actually takes LONGER to dry out than straight grains- the "soda straws" that make up the fibers are convoluted and trap moisture. In the case of burls- think of them as little tumors- each has a solid wall or a circular grain that does not usually intermingle with the outside/parent plant fibers- it has to dry by wicking the moisture from the burl into the regular cellular matrix of the plant. Loooong time there Humidity is not your friend! A basement or other mold/mildew prone areas are going to cause havoc with drying that piece. A kiln will speed it up- but at a cost as others have noted- One way to accelerate drying without seriously impacting the natural drying process is to get a container (Tub/bin from your local home improvement store) and seal the wood in with some dessicant packets from a shoe store. Only a few (Maybe 3-5 at most). The dessicant packets will absorb a residual amount of ambient moisture- and every month just pop them in the oven on low for about 2 hours (I use the "warm" feature on mine- your mileage/model may vary) then toss them back into the bin with the wood. You have to be religious and keep checking the wood for progress. Invest in a moisture meter or find a friend or local woodworker with one. This is a true work in progress thread- WIP for 5 years!
  9. That is a beautiful cut- try to get more and it will take a year+ to properly dry (assuming you dont have a solar kiln or dryer). As others have said- Paint the ends! a nice latex paint or even Elmers glue will do- Some folks use Bees Wax or commercial stuff... After it is dry- you need to cut blanks then STABILIZE it prior to working it- LIke J Leon said- it will crumble. Post stabilizing it will be safe to sand/file/work and if you get a wild hair while stabilizing you can dye or colorize it as well. Wear a mold/fungus approved filter mask when cutting this! Awesome prize!
  10. Thank you for the sourcing of the book- it was on my "wish list" and I took the dive- cool design and from a noob's eye view looks nice!
  11. Looks good but you may want to consider using chicago screws or bookbinding screws for the loop. It will afford 2 things to the design- you can 1-remove it if it is not needed, and 2- rivets like this will scar/scuff leather belts and may create hot spots and pinch points on the belt/waistband. Just a design consideration- look at adding a couple of "Holes" on the body of the sheath so the user can move the loop for diagonal/horizontal/vertical carry at their need- Only thoughts. Keep going looks great BRAVO for pushing the idea forward- do it again and again- TAKE NOTES on your designs so when you find one you LIKE its easy to replicate! (It really is a list of why somethign does NOT work vs what is good- but it helps you not make the same mistakes again!) Keep us posted!
  12. I actually am attending my first meeting tonight! Joined ABANA as well- My big problem is my rotating shift always falls on the meet up nights and events- Ah, Murphy... he lives in my garage you know... and likes to play with my calendar a LOT... weekend off with the wife- the tot is with the grandparents... annnnnnnnnd- date night is on HOLD while I fix the newly busted hot water heater and re-plumb a leak... C'est La Vie!
  13. Thanks Alan and Gerald and Wayne again- @Alan Longmire Thanks for the write up. I dont have a ton of experience with spark testing, nor do I have the capability to test all my scrap. I do have a local junk-yard that will XRF gun a sample for a few bucks- but dont want to make that a habit or wear out my welcome there... So I will keep on the prowl for suitable scrap. But- as you point out- many of the ascribed steels for manufacture of items is not what they truly are in the real world. @Gerald Boggs Thanks for the question about gravers- hope you dont mind if I bug you next year to maybe get a meet and greet together when Im in your neck of the woods... Wife and I get out to Bedford and Stuarts Draft a few times a year. Thank you folks I appreciate your time and attention as well! Back to the Hurricane in my area- fun fun fun!
  14. Fair enough- thanks- for the info guys! Thanks Joel- Ive been working 1084 and O1 for now. These were literally dropped off in a box- so free may mean good- thus my search. (Free here did not equate to good) The 1/4 and 5/16 I can use in the lathe and shaper- but the 1 inch bar was my main concern. Understood about getting into the trade- Im the quintessential "piddler" in CRS- mostly domestic ironwork and kitchen ware. I have recently begun a different "philosophy of life" and am enjoying exploring this venture. I have actually printed a ton of the pinned topics where I found info that was good. Was there a specific item or topic/resource you were recommending? Nice to have direction- and thanks for the reply! @Wayne Coe Thanks for the suggestion- I am using the AZOM and GlobalSpec engineering database for reference right now. I will look into the app! Alan- Thanks again- Im almost done acquiring and now will be moving into the setting up phase. I would like to know where everyone gets these axles and how they tell the steel types... I have read the scrap steel charts and assumptions of spring steels and bearing races. Im really not trying to poo poo anyone or their methodology but it is literally preached to the new guys to use "known steels" in their learning- then when it comes to tooling or gear most folks go with what is scrap or an "unknown"... bit of a quandry to me. I want to know the performance of my tools as well as my product steel. Maybe Im being OCD or "new-guy" dumb/resistant... but why cheap out on the tooling? Learning the tooling and tool making is an essential part of the shop- or am I off-base? Confused but feeling grateful for everyone's continued knowledge and sharing! Thank you!
  15. Pardon my ignorance starting off.. never tried to forge the HS/tool steels Can this stuff be forged? Currently using a NA venturi with Propane- gearing up to build a ribbon burner this fall. Looks like Annealing can be done relatively easily- forging post anneal seems to be problematic based on the narrow working temperature range The heat treat post forging will be at the upper limit for my HT oven (another thing I have not done yet- any exotic steels)... One of my local scrap guys dropped off a box of lathe tooling- mostly "Mo-Max" so its probably M42 tool steel bits today- I would like to make some smaller hand push chisels or even a hardie tool or two (from the 1 inch square bar) There are a variety of lengths and sizes- mostly 1/4, 1/2 and 5/16 square... then there is a 1 inch square piece that is 7 inches long. The Hardies are my biggest thought process- but to soak a 1 inch square bar may be an issue! Any input or thought processes would be appreciated-
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