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  1. UPDATE So I took the advice and gave it a go. Gotta say it worked pretty good. Whats more, It worked great at keeping my metal hot so I ccan pour more reliable molds with less imperfections. Just wanted to say thanks to you that answered my noob questions. I just completed this for a cousin of mine. Shes a bartender on the weekends and it was her birthday. Thanks again guys.
  2. I have not tried changing the tip yet But I did change out the flare to the one mentioned above. : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eOFqCUFKVQk It seems to be running MUCH better, but it stil feels like im not getting the desired pressure, On Grants video the flame is shooting close to 12 inches out the barrel. Does this seem better now? Possibly good enough to melt aluminum and brass? I am under the assumption you want the flame to be igniting close to the tip of the barrel not towards the middle, I think thats where im concerned.
  3. Ok So i just came inside from fiddlin with it. I ground down the threads on the air inlet for smoother air flow, and did the same for the flare end since its what I had. still having the same issue more or less, but at 18 seconds it was the best ive ever gotten this thing to run... @ 10 PSI. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mi_x_2_lKN0
  4. Interesting. I had read that if you nozzle gets hot it can be dangerous, hence why I was nervous. I have barely let the thing run more than 5 mins so far lol. I read the link you posted and I see he has the inlet for the air on top instead of behind. Is that a better setup? What PSI from the tank do you run usually? I
  5. Will do. The only reason im nervous is because the jet tube from my understanding is not supposed to get hot, but mine is. and Idk why is doing that.
  6. Oh my fault. New York. Long island specifically.
  7. Ive seen that setup as well. you mean something like this ?
  8. Hey thanks for the reply. I currently have a .60 welding tip as the nozzle. but you are saying getting the tapered one would be better? Also, if the nozzle was drilled and tapped perfectly straight could that cause an issue as well? I ask because I drilled that by hand (No drill press) As far as airflow, there really is no adjustment. Once that makeshift regulator is off I cant make the set up breathe in more air, unless I increase the pressure on the tank correct? I am just nervous because I dont want to blow myself up. Is there a PSI you suggest I do not go over? Edit: Also I forgot to mention, you said the flame seems to be doing ok, but I need to get this to Aluminum/Brass melting temperatures efficiently
  9. So I have been getting into metal casting the last 6 months, and I began my journey with charcoal. NowI am trying to upgrade my setup to a propane venturi setup. My problem is even after following EXACTLY the instructions my burner is not running properly. I am getting sputtering and an inefficient flame. Additionally, the end of my jet tube is getting red hot which I know is not a good thing. With that, I cant run my furnace until I know it's working as intended. I have tried running it at 5 PSI to 15 PSI and anything after 15 is pretty chaotic. I took the design from Grant Thompson. - This is where I am at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=49FCz3AGubE The piping was done 1"1/2 x 1" ----> 6" 1inch nipple -----> 1"x 1"1/4 coupling as the flare. It seemed to be too much volume and the flame wasnt controllable to my standards. (I also later realized I made everything the wrong size) Since it wasnt running right I switched over to a 1"1/4 x 3/4 -----> 6" 3/4 nipple -------> 3/4 x 1" as a flare. thinking the the smaller diameter pipe would increase the pressure, and I am having the same issue. I dont know what else to say that can better describe whats going on. It looks and sounds like the flame isnt oxidizing enough? Any help would be great.
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