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About Mitch_H

  • Birthday 08/22/1962

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    York, SC
  1. Still learning and still having fun with it. This is 1095 with African Blackwood scales and cooper tubing from the plumbing section of Lowe's I tried my hand at rust bluing and although I did not get the nice finish I wanted like Wes Detrick and others have displayed, I am not overly disappointed and will try again on a future project. I have not put a final edge on it yet as I still plan to make a sheath and there is less chance of blood letting if I wait for final sharpening. Regards, --Mitch
  2. I have to brag a little, My oldest daughter is a junior in college, majoring in engineering. She and her BF decided to make each other something for Christmas this year and since I was exploring knife making and had some tools and material she thought it was the perfect opportunity to make something he will certainly not be expecting. She has been working on it over a couple of weekends this month when she was able to make it home. She just called it done today. I think she did a great job for her first knife, her design was inspired from a bunch of internet searches, now she wants to keep it since it is her first and see if she has time to make another for him before Christmas. She started the new one today. I am really happy she is enjoying it, but my supplies are going more quickly :-) 1095 Steel, Black Palm Scales, etched with Ferric Chloride from Radio Shack
  3. Thanks guys, thrift store pot it is then. Better safe than sorry. Regards, --mitch
  4. I read on a previous thread a post by Wes Detrick explaining the steps in Rust Bluing and I am very interested in trying it. Wes mentions "Saturate it with salt until no more can dissolve. Bring this solution to a boil....." So my question is less technical and more of a safety issues. I assume if it will rust a knife that quickly that it would rust a pot just the same. How do I avoid getting beat over head by the wife with a rusted pot? Are you boiling in glass/microwave...or do you just have an old pot dedicated to the task? Thanks, --mitch
  5. Yes, Wes it is exposed. I'll plan on coating it, thanks
  6. I've only done one, I used a very scientific method to determine the tang length . It was only as long as my drill bit could reach
  7. @Joshua, thanks. For Heat treating, I bought a Devil Forge on ebay, made in Lithuanian but free shipping. So I am just heating until the magnet doesn't stick and quenching in Canola oil. I'm pretty basic at this point. @Robert, thanks. Yeah HF in Rock Hill, SC sells the sander but doesn't stock much in the way of belts so I hit amazon for that, Also got some 1000 and a leather 1x30 to help with sharpening.
  8. Yeah, that is a good answer, light use = shorter tang OK, heavy use = longer tang for strength. Thanks Geoff --mitch
  9. Hi, Sorry if this is repeat question, but when making a knife with a hidden tang is there a certain ratio between blade length and tang length that you should shoot for? ( more concerned with how short is too short ) Thanks, --mitch
  10. Hi I'm new here, this is my 2nd post. I mentioned on my first post recently that I got hooked on the idea of blade making after a weekend of binge watching 'Forged in Fire'. I couldn't wait for blade steel to arrive and couldn't find anything local so I grabbed the trusty 'lawnmowerbladium' stock that had been hanging on the garage wall unused for maybe 20 years and went to cutting. I know it is not likely going to be great steel for a knife but it is what I had on hand when the bug hit me. The handle is ebay sourced burlap micarta, patina from boiled vinegar. So for my 2nd attempt, I did get some 1095. My wife asked me to make something for her and even though what I had is a bit thick ( 1/8' ) for a kitchen knife, I went for it anyway and ground down as much as I could with the little HF 1x30. The handle is Bloodwood that I got from Woodcraft in Charlotte, finished in boiled linseed oil. I even got a bit of hamon showing, so for a second knife I am not disappointed. I have some more steel on order, so I'll be perusing this site for tips and ideas. Regards, -Mitch
  11. sounds like a plan, I'll just leave cookies on the porch for the UPS guy
  12. Thanks Doug, Yeah, I just checked NJ Steel Baron and 48" of 52100 is about $20, but the shipping is over 1.5 times that at just under $34, ouch --mitch
  13. Thanks Alan & Wesley. I just found Hudson Tool Steel with a Charlotte address. Their website says they have W-1 and 0-1 plus more in flat bar stock. I'll have to give them a call to see if they actually have a store front.
  14. Hi Folks, I'm new here, and I just recently binge watched 3 seasons of "Forged with Fire " and got the bug to try my hand at knife making. So, I ordered some 1095 and 5160 from Knifemaking.com. The price for the two 18" pieces seems reasonable at about $15, but the shipping for those two pieces was $18 more. Seems a bit high to me. Anyone know where someone could pick up material locally in the Charlotte, NC area? Thanks, Mitch
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