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Alex Middleton

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Everything posted by Alex Middleton

  1. Lol thanks Garry. I think she's hooked now. Probably time for her to get a real hunting knife. Especially since I told her that I'm not field dressing her next one for her!
  2. I had to cut my shop time a little short this afternoon to take my niece out during Michigan's Youth deer season. She managed to connect on her first one ever!
  3. Guard rough shaped and fit up with the spacer package.
  4. 1080 or 1084 are great steels to start with. Arguably the easiest to properly heat treat when compared to any other blade steel.
  5. That is a pretty blade. What's the handle wood? I'm a little more simplistic with brussel sprouts. Steam'em, melt a little butter over the top and sprinkle with salt.
  6. Check with a local sheet metal distributor. 1008/1010 is a pretty common spec for commercial quality cold rolled sheets.
  7. Looking good Doug! I think the "deadline" was set at October 1st. I don't think that there was any mention of a sheath being a requirement.
  8. Thanks @Gary LT, might have to wait a bit though. I'm not sure when I'll get back around to it again. Too many projects, not enough time.
  9. Took some time to put together a proof of concept of a skeleton frame folder that I've been playing with off and on for quite some time. I laser cut the pieces out of 14 ga mild steel to see how well it would go together. Overall it wasn't too bad. I do have to make a few adjustments before I try it again though.
  10. Definitely a rewarding build. A bit unorthodox, but even more special because of it. Strong work sir!
  11. Got a bit of work done on my brother in laws cleaver today. Obviously there's still a bunch of work to do yet. Quick question for those of you that have made these before. I meant to bump the heat up on my temper a bit to around 420 or so and overshot to 450 before I realized it. Too high? The stock is .140" 15n20 from NJSB. BIL plans to use it as a true cleaver for meat processing, chopping through bones, etc.
  12. Today I heat treated a big cleaver out of 15n20 that my brother in law has been bugging me for. Biggest blade I've ever had in my forge by far. Everything came out hard and straight which was a relief. I also spent a couple of hours finishing up the hand sanding on this years KITH knife. A while back I threw a light hearted jab at @Brian Doughertywhen he mentioned using his Optivisor during hand sanding. Seeing that I respect his methods and work in general, I decided to give it a try. I have to say that it really puts things in a different light. It may not actually make a h
  13. After a few redraws I'm going to see if I can pull this off: I'm leaning toward a three finger sized handle at the moment. I may stretch it out closer to full size once I get shaping the handle block. It'll depend on how it looks and feels once i get that far. With that (almost) decided, I guess it's time to go out and get this thing hardened and tempered.
  14. That's a striking combination in the handle. Absolutely gorgeous!
  15. Thanks for the input Gary. Easier said than done for me though, especially on a KITH knife. I have a few more ideas that I haven't sketched out yet. I'll probably work on it a bit more today and see what I can come up with.
  16. Finished hand sanding the blade and did a quick test etch to make sure I was on the right track. A little hard to see in the pic, but this side is looking perfect. The outer layer runs a bit farther down to the tip on the other side, but after final grinding I think that it'll be fine. Also started doing a bit of inspirational reading and sketching out handle ideas. My apologies for the crude sketch, I'm horrible at free hand drawing. I'm not 100% satisfied with this route yet, but its the idea I'm leaning towards currently. With the blade only bein
  17. I don't see a mess anywhere. At least compared to what I'm used to working in!
  18. Did you get the Hamon you were looking for? The second one really looks like a temper line. That wouldn't explain that sharp break line on the first one though.
  19. A stupid mistake on the grinder came back to haunt me, forcing me to redo the ricasso a bit. In the end I think I like it better now, may have to rethink the handle some more now. Also managed to get one side drawfiled and sanded up to 320 in preparation for heat treat. Had to take a break before starting the other side. Fat guys and hot weather don't get along too well!
  20. That turned out really nice! I'm curious about your "redneck urushi" though. Care to give a little more detail?
  21. Finally got back to this after a month. Managed to get quite a bit done today. Still need to draw file the bevels to even everything up. A quick etch shows the layers right about where they should be. Theres not a whole lot of activity to the transition like I wanted, but sometimes you have to crawl before you run I guess. Sooner or later I'm going to have to decide on what I'm going to do for the handle. Gotta be well over 100° in the shop right now, so that's probably it for today. Hopefully I'll get a few hours at it tomorrow morning before it gets too hot again.
  22. Well, if your steel sparks then you managed to get it too hot lol. Colors look differently to each person and can vary greatly depending on the ambient lighting. If you want to know exactly how hot your forge is getting I would spend the $80-$100 and put together a thermocouple/PID setup. There's a couple of threads on doing it in the Tools and Tool making subforum. Otherwise, try taking some plain old laundry borax and put it on top of a piece of steel. Stick it in the forge and see if you can get the borax hot enough to liquefy and come to a rigorous boil. The boiling happens right aro
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