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Alex Middleton

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Everything posted by Alex Middleton

  1. I've run into that before too. I drilled and tapped a hole in the end of the stock and ran a piece of threaded rod in, secured with a jam nut. Then just chucked up on the threaded rod and was super careful when grinding and filing to make sure I wasn't loosening the stock off the jam nut. Definitely a bit shadier than just clamping on the stock, and goes even slower yet, but I'll do it that way again before trying to turn metal with a hand held chisel. Maybe your "financial oficer" will let you get the band saw and the lathe. Then you just have to work on putting an addition on
  2. Nice looking blade Bill! Next time try chucking the stock up in your drill press and using an angle grinder and files to profile it. It's at a little bit safer anyway.
  3. Bummer Faye, that was a nice piece of wood too. Look on the bright side. Now you can sell it as having a three finger handle!
  4. Im digging this little blade Josh. Gotta feel pretty good to drop that JS after your mark!
  5. For me, the line is way to consistent for it to be a material defect. I would think that after forging the transition from "good" steel to "bad" would be much more inconsistent. I think I would sand it down and re-etch it and see what happens. Did you clean it thoroughly before you etched it? It really does look like there is residue left over by something. I guess another possibility is that the blade is magnetized in that area and that is causing it to etch differently. I've never experimented with whether or not that makes a difference in the FeCl, but I suppose it's possible. Again
  6. I'll be be brutally honest, I wouldn't worry too much about the flame coming out the hole until you get your forge a bit more solid. One wrong move could collapse those bricks, and then you potentially have a flame thrower pointed either right at your face, or the wall of your shop. Somewhere around here theres a pinned thread (maybe in Tools and Tool making?) about putting together a super simple forge from fire bricks like that. A few pieces of angle iron and a couple of bolts and then you can worry about tuning it in.
  7. Grabbed it for $160. It's in good shape. The threads are nearly perfect. I just need to get it mounted and adjust the spring a bit and it should work for what I need it for.
  8. Just had one of these pop up for sale near my work. Pics look like it's in good shape. Assuming everything is operable, is it worth it? I don't see these come up very often around me.
  9. That's odd. In the past he's always broken things down so they would fit in flat rate boxes from USPS. Or am I thinking of a different supplier?
  10. Good to see you back at it Joel. I make them in both 5" and 6". Nothing wrong with splitting the difference!
  11. I have only ordered from Jantz once, just recently. I was pleasantly surprised when they processed my order and shipped it out the same day. I've ordered from Aldo several times and have had no issues either. Everything has always come in reasonably quickly, and exactly as advertised. I don't think that you'll go wrong with either.
  12. Much appreciated Billy. I'm already realizing the need to go a bit larger with the can, even if it's just to be able to fit more saw chain in to it. The billet came out at roughly 3/16" thick, maybe a touch over, so it may be as simple as having to take a few more passes at welding heat before peeling the canoe.
  13. Played around with my first attempt at a canoe/canister this afternoon. It was almost even a success. Lol
  14. I decided to try my hand at doing a canoe with some chainsaw chains. Since I'm doing it by hand, I started by making a quick canoe at work out of 304 SS. Measures 1"x5"x3/8" deep on the inside. I cleaned up the chain with acetone and packed everything with fine 1084 powder. Welding up the canoe was a bit of a cluster. I ran out of argon for the TIG welder and tried to finish it using the wrong rods for the stick welder. Obviously this didnt work the greatest and caused me some problems later. After 5-6 passeshammering at welding heat I cut the end of and was pleasa
  15. Could be simply because it would be easier to pack in brown sugar and have it stay in place without falling out. Just a guess though.
  16. One quick tip on hand finishing is to use a hard backer (piece of steel, glass, etc) behind your sandpaper. That, and a bunch of practice, will help to keep the transition lines crisp an clean and avoid some of the washout effect you get with a softer backer.
  17. Nothing wrong with that as a first. Certainly way better than mine! From a critique standpoint two things jump out at me. Firstly, I'm not a huge fan of square inside corners on a knife. You can debate all day whether or not it makes a structural difference, but for me it just doesn't look as sexy as having a radius at that point. After that, I would push you to be extremely anal about your hand finishing, especially when going for a high polish. A couple of errant lower grit scratches that don't come out will really stand out and be noticeable. All in all though, good job! Welcom
  18. Lol. I'll wear them if I'm doing light forging. The perfectly round scar I have on my left foot reminds me that they're not a good idea when doing anything with heavy amounts of scale though!
  19. Haven't had much shop time lately. I took a half hour or so tonight to straighten out the tang. I also cut the tip off and reforged it to get rid of a delam at the end of the billet.
  20. Looking good! I was wondering how you were going to tackle the handle without sandpaper. Too cool!
  21. This time I remembered. The overall picture isn't the best, but you can get the idea. Its actually 3/16" thick instead of the 1/4" I thought it was. I couldn't find the little one-handed one, but if you google fleshing knife you'll see some images pop up.
  22. That's kind of the way I was leaning. I can see it having more use for a blacksmith than a bladesmith. Thanks for the input guys.
  23. Heck of a nice set there Josh.
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