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Alex Middleton

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Everything posted by Alex Middleton

  1. This cool little foot pedal operated vise came up for sale a few miles away from me. I'm just trying to decide if it has enough potential uses to make it worth anywhere near the $200 the guy is asking. I can see it being very handy for straightening a blade during forging, but I'm struggling to come up with a whole lot else. Thoughts?
  2. Just realized that I completely forgot to snap pics last night. I just set a reminder for myself to make sure I do it tonight.
  3. I wish, lol. My HT oven build failed miserably. It's actually in my forge. After a bit of tinkering I was able to get pretty stable heat as low as 1350 or so. It took me about an hour to dial it in, but finally managed to hold it steady(ish) in the right range. I still want to build a proper oven, but this'll work for now.
  4. Oh yeah! Stable from 1450-1475. First project is soaking right now. Too bad it's some tooling for work and not a blade.
  5. Basically, yes. Just a single 45 degree bevel on both edges of the blade. I believe that we have one of the single handed tools around too. If I can find it I'll snap a pic.
  6. Great idea! Something to remember for my next forge build.
  7. I made one for my son several years ago. In the little bit of use that it has seen it performed pretty well. I basically made a copy of a Necker 600 curved knife. The blade portion was a touch over 12" long and 1/4" thick. The outside of the curve is sharpened to a razor for shaving the hair off from a hide, while the inside of the curve is kept slightly duller to remove flesh without damaging the skin. I did a single 45 degree bevel on both the inside and the outside. If I remember when I get home tonight, I'll try to hunt it up and get some pictures.
  8. This thing is getting cooler and cooler everyday. Keep it up!
  9. Thanks for putting that together Garry. I'm looking forward to the next installment. I really like your grinder and grinding jig. Relatively simple, yet extremely effective!
  10. Also check the height of your anvil. Too high or too low will make it so you tend to not hit your work flush with the hammer head.
  11. I think you may have misinterpreted what you've seen on FIF. I can't think of a scenario where you would want a low carbon edge on a knife.
  12. Pretty slick Gary. Even though it's not your usual style, I don't need to see your mark to know you made it.
  13. This statement, coupled with your latest pics, tells me that you have a very bright future in this craft.
  14. Pretty neat trick Billy. Someday in the near future I'm going to try a can. Since it'll be hand hammering only, any little advantage will help!
  15. That turned out nice! I still can't wrap my head around what you did with the pommel, but that's just a stylistic preference. The craftsmanship is superb!
  16. With non-stabilized walnut I've had very good luck using multiple thin coats of polyurethane. I apply it with a paper towel and then wipe it back off (kind of like applying stain). After it dries completely, follow with a light sanding with your choice of high grit sandpaper (I usually go with 800-1000 grit). Sand until the it's back down to mostly wood, but you'll still see the polyurethane that has seeped into the pores. Repeat multiple times , usually anywhere from 6-10 applications depending on the wood, until you see the pores blend in with the rest of the handle after sanding. Once
  17. Looking good Garry! That'll be a handy blade.
  18. Looks like it'll be a good, sturdy, knife. The only advise I would give would be to hedge your bets and leave some extra material in the belly of the handle when you cut it out. Then when you do your final profile you can make adjustments as you go until you get that perfect "feel". Given the type of chores a camp knife will get called upon to do, a proper fitting handle is pretty important.
  19. I would definitely be interested. It would depend on the date, but that sounds like a heck of a good time.
  20. I quite frequently do the same thing that Geoff did. Getting it 90% of the way on the grinder, and then finalizing with files. I do this especially if I'm working on a dagger or a knife with grinds that fall short of the spine. It gives you a lot more control over the final product. When it comes to practicing the mechanics of grinding, using cheap belts and scrap steel is always an option. You just have to be prepared to invest time into something that you know you're going to throw away
  21. I really like the look of the rounded corners on the handle components. It doesn't work with every knife, but it works really well with that one!
  22. Simple tools, and the ability to use them, are all you really need. That, and a decent amount of dedication to learning the craft. From a bladesmithing standpoint, all the information you need is available here somewhere. You just have to look around and do the reading. A lot of it is useful for general blacksmithing as well, but thats definitely not the focus of this site. A fairly accurate saying is that any blacksmith can be a bladesmith, but not any bladesmith can be a blacksmith.
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