
Gayton Arrigotti
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Website URL
www.mossbeachartworks.com
Profile Information
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Gender
Male
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Location
MOSS BEACH,CA. 94038
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Interests
METAL WORK-------FISHING----------COOKING
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Tempering 1095/15n20/1084
Gayton Arrigotti replied to Gayton Arrigotti's topic in Heat Treating by Alloy
I will get a thermometer that sounds like a good way to dial in an accurate temp. for my thrift store toaster oven. -
Tempering 1095/15n20/1084
Gayton Arrigotti replied to Gayton Arrigotti's topic in Heat Treating by Alloy
The steel was new from reputable company selling metals and knife making goods. I made the billet and I use Fahrenheit. My toaster oven was originally set at about 400 degrees and nothing much was happening visually so I set to around 440 degrees and blue violet and red appeared. -
Tempering 1095/15n20/1084
Gayton Arrigotti replied to Gayton Arrigotti's topic in Heat Treating by Alloy
Ok .........Its going to be a simple kitchen knife......I took a file to the edge and its a bit sticky?. I want it to sharpen easily with a steel............... -
A quick question......If you get into the blue color on tempering should you start over and quench again?
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Happy to have the clarification. Another wrong made right...................
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I have been putting my blade in a cold kiln and setting the temperature to 1550 and when it arrives I pull the blade and quench? Question..........Should the kiln be at temperature before the blade goes in thus bringing the blade up rapidly to temp.
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Thats what I have been doing also....... So I should consider the billet 1 piece rather than a number of layers
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When you initially forge weld your billet and you know you are successful do you need to keep the billet at 2300 degrees or can you work it at a lower temp. when your forging it out? I was told to always forge the billet at welding temperature...........
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The 2psi is a tank gauge reading. There is a needle valve going into a 2" pipe for gas control and a 2" gate valve for air flow. Picture shows needle valve and gate valve.
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OK..........Thanks all for the input. I am going to remove the lump patch, move the ribbon block back a bit and fill in the gap around the burner. I should say before this patch job the forge was functioning without problems. I will hold off on replacing the blower for now since it has been working ok. I want to set up a safety system like seen in Gilberts system but I need hands on help with that. Right now I have little control of the temp. and 2psi is what I run the gas at
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Here is a pic. of the inside of the forge where I patched. I made a big lump and changed the shape of the cylinder. Could that cause a problem with gas being trapped?
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I patched my forge with Satinite over kaowool because of a large cracked void about a 2 weeks ago. Fired it up once for about 5 minutes to dry out the patch 4 days later. Prier to this patch job the forge was working well. I had to disassemble the plumbing to do the patch and reassemble. Anyway, I was working today on a billet and everything was going well until the forge stalled (small explosion)!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I SHUT IT DOWN IMMEDIATELY. After thinking about what happened for a few minutes I adjusted the gas down and the air up a tad and let the gas in. It was working
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blisters appearing on my billets
Gayton Arrigotti replied to Gayton Arrigotti's topic in Metallurgy and other enigmas
OK I will try the hole poke next time it happens. I have ground these blisters in the past when the billet was cold but lost a lot of material & it takes too much time. -
I get blisters on my billet when it gets to about 1/4 inch thin or less. Is there pockets of air or flux traped? it seems to happen after folding. I hammer them down and run them through my press and it seems to eliminate them but I am not 100% sure................