Gayton Arrigotti

Very good.............Cool to black 900 degrees F or less makes sense since the time involved is much shorter................Thats answers questioning.

I would like to know what normalizing to AIR OR ROOM temperature means? My workspace is around 70 degrees. What I have been doing is cooling to black heat and repeating 3x Then going for the quench on the 4thx

Is there a difference between a laminated blade and a forge welded blade ? Forge welding implies layers which to me means a lamination?

I will get a thermometer that sounds like a good way to dial in an accurate temp. for my thrift store toaster oven.

The steel was new from reputable company selling metals and knife making goods. I made the billet and I use Fahrenheit. My toaster oven was originally set at about 400 degrees and nothing much was happening visually so I set to around 440 degrees and blue violet and red appeared.

Ok .........Its going to be a simple kitchen knife......I took a file to the edge and its a bit sticky?. I want it to sharpen easily with a steel...............

A quick question......If you get into the blue color on tempering should you start over and quench again?

Happy to have the clarification. Another wrong made right...................

I have been putting my blade in a cold kiln and setting the temperature to 1550 and when it arrives I pull the blade and quench? Question..........Should the kiln be at temperature before the blade goes in thus bringing the blade up rapidly to temp.

Thats what I have been doing also....... So I should consider the billet 1 piece rather than a number of layers

When you initially forge weld your billet and you know you are successful do you need to keep the billet at 2300 degrees or can you work it at a lower temp. when your forging it out? I was told to always forge the billet at welding temperature...........

The 2psi is a tank gauge reading. There is a needle valve going into a 2" pipe for gas control and a 2" gate valve for air flow. Picture shows needle valve and gate valve.

OK..........Thanks all for the input. I am going to remove the lump patch, move the ribbon block back a bit and fill in the gap around the burner. I should say before this patch job the forge was functioning without problems. I will hold off on replacing the blower for now since it has been working ok. I want to set up a safety system like seen in Gilberts system but I need hands on help with that. Right now I have little control of the temp. and 2psi is what I run the gas at

Here is a pic. of the inside of the forge where I patched. I made a big lump and changed the shape of the cylinder. Could that cause a problem with gas being trapped?

I patched my forge with Satinite over kaowool because of a large cracked void about a 2 weeks ago. Fired it up once for about 5 minutes to dry out the patch 4 days later. Prier to this patch job the forge was working well. I had to disassemble the plumbing to do the patch and reassemble. Anyway, I was working today on a billet and everything was going well until the forge stalled (small explosion)!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I SHUT IT DOWN IMMEDIATELY. After thinking about what happened for a few minutes I adjusted the gas down and the air up a tad and let the gas in. It was working fine so I continued on until BOOM..........STALLED OUT AGAIN about 15min. later. So whats going on?????????????? Gayton