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Gayton Arrigotti

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  1. Thank You all for the excellent information. You just rocked my tiny world! If I asked for help a few years back Iam sure I would have had less disappointments. Attached is a photo of my first knife( or should I say letter opener)....Silver/Copper/Steel
  2. Thanks for the clarification its been on my mind for awhile. Some blades seem to have a dark tone (1095) with shiny pattern (15n20) as a background and other blades just the opposite. Does the number of layers make a difference?
  3. Using 1095 and 15n20 in a billet which metal of the stack should be on the outside? Does the color of the metal make a difference in how the pattern might appear?
  4. Can someone answer a question? Which metal in a damascus billet should be on the outside of the stack if you are using 1095 and 15n20??

    1. Dave Stephens

      Dave Stephens

      If you want even layers, then the bottom and top of the stack on should have opposite types of steel (i.e. 1095 on the top and 15n20 on the bottom).

       

      The reality, of course, is that if you're going for anything like a high layer billet, and you've started with thin steel, you'll probably grind away bits or all of the top/bottom layers during the grind clean/chop/stack/reweld of the pattern welding process. 

       

      Don't worry too much about this. I often double stack layers with the same steel, or add a thick bar of another type of steel, to initial stack for texture variation. 

       

      The predominate metaphor for pattern welding is wood grain, so imagine a really nice, polished surface of hardwood. The irregularity of the grain is part of the beauty. If it was too even, too precise, it wouldn't work. 

       

      Luck!

       

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