Jump to content

Gayton Arrigotti

Members
  • Content Count

    17
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Gayton Arrigotti

  1. Happy to have the clarification. Another wrong made right...................
  2. I have been putting my blade in a cold kiln and setting the temperature to 1550 and when it arrives I pull the blade and quench? Question..........Should the kiln be at temperature before the blade goes in thus bringing the blade up rapidly to temp.
  3. Thats what I have been doing also....... So I should consider the billet 1 piece rather than a number of layers
  4. When you initially forge weld your billet and you know you are successful do you need to keep the billet at 2300 degrees or can you work it at a lower temp. when your forging it out? I was told to always forge the billet at welding temperature...........
  5. The 2psi is a tank gauge reading. There is a needle valve going into a 2" pipe for gas control and a 2" gate valve for air flow. Picture shows needle valve and gate valve.
  6. OK..........Thanks all for the input. I am going to remove the lump patch, move the ribbon block back a bit and fill in the gap around the burner. I should say before this patch job the forge was functioning without problems. I will hold off on replacing the blower for now since it has been working ok. I want to set up a safety system like seen in Gilberts system but I need hands on help with that. Right now I have little control of the temp. and 2psi is what I run the gas at
  7. Here is a pic. of the inside of the forge where I patched. I made a big lump and changed the shape of the cylinder. Could that cause a problem with gas being trapped?
  8. I patched my forge with Satinite over kaowool because of a large cracked void about a 2 weeks ago. Fired it up once for about 5 minutes to dry out the patch 4 days later. Prier to this patch job the forge was working well. I had to disassemble the plumbing to do the patch and reassemble. Anyway, I was working today on a billet and everything was going well until the forge stalled (small explosion)!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I SHUT IT DOWN IMMEDIATELY. After thinking about what happened for a few minutes I adjusted the gas down and the air up a tad and let the gas in. It was working
  9. OK I will try the hole poke next time it happens. I have ground these blisters in the past when the billet was cold but lost a lot of material & it takes too much time.
  10. I get blisters on my billet when it gets to about 1/4 inch thin or less. Is there pockets of air or flux traped? it seems to happen after folding. I hammer them down and run them through my press and it seems to eliminate them but I am not 100% sure................
  11. ok thanks for that.......... metals are 1095/15n20/ 1084
  12. i THROUGH THE BILLET ONTO THE DRIVEWAY AT BLACKISH HEAT. ITS FAIRLY HARD WITH SOME SOFTER STOPS. MY BAND SAW WONT CUT IT?
  13. I cant drill into my billet of carbon steel very easy. My drill bits dont penetrate deep enough.
  14. Thank You all for the excellent information. You just rocked my tiny world! If I asked for help a few years back Iam sure I would have had less disappointments. Attached is a photo of my first knife( or should I say letter opener)....Silver/Copper/Steel
  15. Thanks for the clarification its been on my mind for awhile. Some blades seem to have a dark tone (1095) with shiny pattern (15n20) as a background and other blades just the opposite. Does the number of layers make a difference?
  16. Using 1095 and 15n20 in a billet which metal of the stack should be on the outside? Does the color of the metal make a difference in how the pattern might appear?
  17. Can someone answer a question? Which metal in a damascus billet should be on the outside of the stack if you are using 1095 and 15n20??

    1. Dave Stephens

      Dave Stephens

      If you want even layers, then the bottom and top of the stack on should have opposite types of steel (i.e. 1095 on the top and 15n20 on the bottom).

       

      The reality, of course, is that if you're going for anything like a high layer billet, and you've started with thin steel, you'll probably grind away bits or all of the top/bottom layers during the grind clean/chop/stack/reweld of the pattern welding process. 

       

      Don't worry too much about this. I often double stack layers with the same steel, or add a thick bar of another type of steel, to initial stack for texture variation. 

       

      The predominate metaphor for pattern welding is wood grain, so imagine a really nice, polished surface of hardwood. The irregularity of the grain is part of the beauty. If it was too even, too precise, it wouldn't work. 

       

      Luck!

       

    2. Al Massey

      Al Massey

      As a rule, not so much the steel type but thickness is the issue- if you have great degrees of difference in the thickness, the thicker pieces should be on the outside in my experience.

×
×
  • Create New...