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JAndrews

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  1. Remove the screw/bearing out of it. Does it close square then? Could be twisted at the attach point at the bottom. Mine swings on a bolt, but it's some pretty heavy stuff. I doubt I could bend mine. If the post got twisted, that would cause the jaw to swing up outta square. If thats what happened to yours, it would suck but you could heat the post and twist it back to square without too much misery. J
  2. No worries Jerrod, I leave about 3/4" of inch undrilled in the bottom of the rod. The rods do wear down with repeated dunks in bronze. Aluminum not so much. Just helps the probe live to fight another day when I break a rod. Still haven't bust one yet. (now I said it, I better start drilling another rod.... lol) This isn't my creation by any means. The guys over at AA have many cheapo styles of this thing. My shop is where good tools go to die, so it needs to be cheap and easy.
  3. Always.... Happy to help out. Cheapest setup on earth. Works a treat. http://www.bladesmithsforum.com/index.php?showtopic=34247
  4. You asked for it, so here it is! This is a super simple pyrometer for checking temperatures inside a forge, furnace, or crucible full of molten metal. Constructed with 1/2" metal conduit pipe. You will need 5/8" gouging rods from McMaster and will need a 12" long, 3/16" drill bit. VERY carefully drill the gouging rod down the middle of the rod, 11inches deep. These are fragile and break easy. The key to drilling it, is to start with a 3inch bit and be dead nuts straight and go slow. After you're in a couple inches, switch to the long bit. The thermocouple from McMaster will be contained in a ceramic shell and will be a tight fight inserting into the gouging rod. You might need to "wholler" out the hole carefully to get the rod fully inserted. After this is complete, mount the rod on the end of the conduit with some clamps. Run Thermocouple wire down the tube and out the bottom some where. Connect it to your meter. What could be easier? I've seen guys pay upwards of $500 for a type K meter. This setup works probably just as good for a 1/10th the price. If It get's dropped, broke, or kicked, I'll only be torqued I have to drill another rod. If you find you are really good at drilling the carbon, drill yourself a few spares. Parts list.... 1/4" probe Type K thermocouple, McMaster Carr, Part number 3859K44 (6bucks) 5/8" x 12"long Gouging carbons (I had a box of Blue Demons) McMaster-carr, part number should work 7979A18 Type K Thermocouple wire, 10ft. . McMaster Carr, part number 3870K35 (10bucks) Cheapo type K meter off fleabay. (buy 1 and a spare) 5bucks each. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Digital-LCD-Thermometer-Thermodetector-Meter-TM-902C-K-Type-Thermocouple-Probe-/261685822329?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cedb0c379 That's it. Your cheapo meter will come with a type k connector for the meter. Steal the little plug off it and stick it on your wire. Connect the wire to the Probe thats inserted into the rod and your done. These work on resistance. If ya can't wait for the slow boat from china on the meter, you can use a DVM and find yourself a chart. I personally like the chinese meter. It reads in C, but you can work out the conversion or make a chart. This very simple and LONG lasting cheapo setup could even be permanently installed in your forge. Dipping these rods into molten bronze wears them down a bit, but if you're just leaving it poked inside a forge, it could last for years. Gouging rod next to Mcmaster car ceramic probe. Yup I broke some of the ceramic tube. No big deal Probe installed in the rod I welded a piece of the conduit on the end and split it longways, opened it up a bit and added clamps. Completed head Meter.... Looks like it's about 75degrees in my garage. Not too shabby
  5. This is how ya do it. Don't ask where the gear came from. Cost me a lot of beer and some deer meat. That's all I'm gonna say about that one. ;-) I started to firing it slowly tonight to cure the mizzou. First run was only to a couple hundred degrees, slow cool down, then back up higher to around 700degrees. Just finished up and it reached 1850degrees. How might you ask?? Here is the worlds cheapest pyrometer. I use it for dipping into crucibles of molten metal. If anyone wants a build thread on it, just say the word. It's a WINNER and less than 40bucks! I do believe with a bigger blower, I should get her another 500degrees out of it. (I hope) I'm not planning on doing any forge welding in this thing. But getting metal back up to temp in a hurry is always the goal. I was getting low on mizzou, so I ran 3layers of 1inch Kaowool and one inch of mizzou. Only about 500degrees here. Cheapo Pyrometer made with a 1/2" gouging rod.
  6. Nice work Dan. 2400degrees is impressive on NG. I do metal casting and melting with diesel and used motor oil. I might look later at rebuilding my furnace with a pair of large ribbon burners. No question, this sucker is here to stay in my workshop. My forge is slowly curing it's mizzou now, I'll put the flames to it soon.
  7. Your right Dan. It's still a squirrel cage motor. :-/ Ya really would think they would know better than to produce that thing for a forge. I'll dig through my HVAC crap for now. I'm sure I've got something just as good at a free price. Correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't a centrifugal setup with a paddle blade the best for pressure? Blower design seems to be a black art to me and I can never keep them straight. lol Just found this... Looks very helpful. http://www.saylor.org/site/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/Chapter-3.5-Fans-Blowers.pdf
  8. Thanks Wayne, but I'm running 1/2" across the board. Oil burner, Kero burner and NG. If it wasn't for the gas lanterns hanging on my house, I'd have 1" feeding the show. :-) I'd like to find this blower used on this page by Eric... http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/934512-Table-Forge-with-Ribbon-Burner Anyone recognize it?
  9. Yup, household gas pressure. I'd be surprised If I have 11". I measured it once with a home made manometer and it was around 7". Not sure if this helps, but the house is plumbed with 1" pipe, and I reduced it down to 1/2" about 50feet prior to dumping it into the forge. This is a photo of my regulator. Anyone know what this means?
  10. First post here, folks. Name is Jason. I'm actually a metal caster and found my way to you guys via some searching. While i fire a metal casting furnace on used motor oil, I was looking for a quicker way to fire a forge I was building. I'm from west texas and coal isn't something we have here. Lots of oil and natural gas, but no coal. To make things worse, propane is dumb money in my neck of the woods so I set out on firing a forge with natural gas. This thread is my adventure into what took me way too much time to solve. Hopefully this will help someone looking to do the same thing. The Problem: As you propane burning people know, you guys can get regulators to blast out at 30psi and even 60psi and that's why you can get away with a normally aspirated propane burner or "supercharge" it with a hair dryer or compressed air line. Household natural gas pressure is only delivered at about 1psi. VERY LOW, slow and LAZY. There is no way to boost this PSI without expensive engineering. There are companies that sell natural gas forges and these can be expensive and are usually very large. The Solution: Must create a large enough mixing chamber and an effective way to safely and smoothly deliver the collected low psi natural gas and get it to burn INSIDE an enclosed space. Nothing I did here is new and I cannot take credit for this. The real brain child behind this is John Emmerling, His simple instructions can be found here. http://www.waynecoeartistblacksmith.com/uploads/Ribbon_Forge_Burner.pdf Thanks Wayne for posting this on your website. On to the build and all my trials and tribulations. This is how i WAS heating metal. Some might call it a vertical forge, but I call it a furnace. FIred with used motor oil, it has a hinging lid to allow the crucible to be lifted in and out of the heat. Used oil has the BTU's to easily reach cast iron temps and is essentially FREE to operate for long periods of time. Here is some work on the tank itself. I thought having one end hinge would be a good idea for larger work. This haunts me later as you'll see. Stand 2" x 2" x 6" 1/8" wall box section. Note diffuser plate with holes welded 5/8" from 2" opening on the inlet side. Ends closed, That 1/2" lip is what secures the refractory to the body of burner housing. Crayons mounted on plywood for burner hole pattern Large 2" hole for inlet Wood former Completed form Setting depth for casting Refractory filled form and metal box Removing the forms Mounted in top of furnace View inside the furnace. No METAL of burner body can protrude inside furnace! Here is where and HOW the magic happens. The natural gas must be introduced to burner (in distance) per this >>>> Diameter of pipe (2") X 9 = MINIMUM entrance in inches. My case 18" from burner. Reason for this is to allow the natural gas and blown air to mix. If feeding this thing with propane, You can put it closer to the burner and shorten up the pipe. Test firing burner outside the forge test fire outside furnace. Shoots a nice 4ft flame Firing inside the tank Another view inside from the hinged side. Full steam ahead right? Well, here is where I get a little sideways with this project. Looks like it burns great right up to the point where I close the hinged door. With the door closed, it flamed out. It became very hard to light, unstable, and just about downright scary. Lots of poofs and woofs.. I started to reconsider this hinging door and really the need for it. My openings are 4"x4" on the back and close to 6"x6" on the front. I decided to weld the back end of the tank on it. Further test firings still showed I had SOMETHING going on with this. I tried running it lean, I tried rich. I tried every blower I could find from hair dryers to large squirrel cage fans, shop vacs and paddle style fans. It is important to remember a fan is not necessarily a fan. Squirrel cage fans do not handle back pressure well. When back pressure happens to a squirrel fan, the motor slows down and stability can become an issue. Better option would be a paddle blade setup. Well, last night it finally occurred to me, what I was doing was introducing this forced air/gas mixture into a tank without a clear path to it's exit. This created a turbulent environment and made the flame highly unstable. I still hadn't added the Kaowool or Mizzou refractory cement to this as I didn't know if the burner was here to stay or would I end up on a normally aspirated propane burner. I decided last night to mock it up stuffed with 2inches of Kaowool and light it again. As they say, the proof is in the pudding. The flame lights with ease. Turn on the air, slowly introduce the natural gas and it lets out a gentle poof and it's off to the races. It's VERY stable, and dare I say it now, REALLY HOT! I still have more work to do, adding the usual assortment of air flow valves, fine adjustment for gas control and other crap I can screw to this thing. At the moment, my fan is a whimpy microwave oven blower and the gas line is 1/2" feeding the burner. My fan is running full tilt and natural gas valve is hardly even cracked open. This is exactly what I want. Plenty of headroom to increase the heat by adding a larger fan and increasing gas flow. And here's a small video of it running. Stuffing this thing with the Kaowool allowed for smooth exit of airflow. PROBLEM SOLVED! ~side note~ Kaowool should be covered with Mizzou, ITC, Kast-o-lite, keeping silica out of your lungs is important. Hopefully this might help some of you that are considering dumping your expensive propane and trying natural gas. I can already see many applications for this. It burns clean, CHEAP, lights easy, stable, could be extremely safe with the addition of flame sensors and solenoids to cut fuel in the event of a loss of the blower or even power. Compressed air could also be another option easily rigged in place of an electric motor so close to a pipe full of gas. Many question why the flame doesn't travel back up the pipe to the source. Well, the pipe remains under pressure and the pipe is a fixed size, therefore the theory is the flame has no where else to go but forward. In addition, multiple ribbon burners could be stacked, or a 3foot burner could be made just the same. Today, with the net, we stand on the shoulders of giants and each time, we get to see a little further than the last guy. So grab your man card and let's see where this takes us. Thanks! Jason
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