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JenniferP

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JenniferP last won the day on June 13

JenniferP had the most liked content!

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  • Gender
    Female
  • Location
    Rutland, MA
  • Interests
    All forging aspects. Primarily involved with the colonial period to present forgings. tools, hardware, knives, swords, Nin-gu, Hammers.

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  1. Depending on the size of the eye of the hammer you can just use a table saw to cut the groove from both sides then go in and clean it up. There was an article in the ABANA rag last time or the time before on this handle. I made and used one many years ago and didn't like the feeling in the hand. It feels springy and torqy around the center of the handle. A larger flat face will effect the bones of the hand more so then a smaller flat face (rounder etc, etc) since there is a leverage ratio coming into play. Any time you hit only a corner of something it will send more v
  2. Looking great. Can't wait to see it finished.
  3. I wanna say 3/4"X2" X 10" I had taken notes back when I started the project but I don't remember if it was the clip board or in the journal.. I can look tomorrow.. I know it was 3/4"X2" but not sure on length.
  4. Post up a photo of the broken axe if you can.. It might be repairable. Also if you don't mind me asking what were the weather conditions when it broke? Winter perhaps? I made this ax for heavy felling work.. With this said. the blade as explained before is designed for wear and the top, tip is always the wearing point with bad swings and such when a tree is on the ground and one is tired. This leading cutting edge is super handy for limbing as it gives just a little extra lead so leads to a slicing action. For overall size it's pretty light at only 3.75lbs head weight and
  5. its a rather old commercial way of doing it. While I weld the eye closed using the scarfs before inserting the steel which then leaving a gap for the steel to sit in in a separate welding heat. Using this method when perfected the steel and eye weld can be completed at the same time. thanks, You are right on the bevel and rounded out center section of the blade.. It does help to keep the blade from sticking and leverages out of a cut easier. I am often dismayed today that most axes and hatches made are flat bladed.. Not really great for deep cuts with little stic
  6. Thanks Rob, She swings real nice. Thanks,, It is fun to finish a feller and get to makes chips for sure.
  7. I want to apologize to the group for my comment about not caring what people say or offer as opinion.. Lots of smart peoples here and sharing ideas is crucial for understanding and growth.. The reason why I phrased it the way is i fell into a trap of sorts. When I was a young smith I spent time messing around with suggestions of what was hot, or new idea, etc, etc.. Took me a long time to come back to understand I had to find what shape worked for me and every person I have met since has a handle shape that they like.. Ideally i don't want others to fall into the same trap I
  8. The only important aspect of any hammer or handle is "How it fits the user".. I personally don't care what anyone thinks about anything if it works for me.. It doesn't mean I need to be unpleasant about someones comments.. but many times things have been done on purpose, a particular way without a person knowing that.. With this said.. " Keep in mind "they" are not you and might not have the same physical problems, muscle mass, etc, etc." The only way I know if a handle is good or not is to spend time with it.. Preferably over a few days to a few weeks. (usually I will k
  9. Nice work Chris.. When you start working larger stock it does change the process some.. I have found over the 40+ years that the process/skill set does not change much only the time it takes to do the same operation.. This is true working with bigger materials for sure.
  10. You bring up some very interesting points.. Non Destructive testers are really neat with no deformation at all of the surface.. Your lucky to be able to work with such items. Metallurgy on a whole is very interesting and can see why you feel the way you do and your point about " Hardness" and "rebound rates" being different for different materials of the same Hardness is a great point. Gary, I'd say it was a deal.. But with this said.. they stopped making them some time ago so not easy to come by. (ebay find after a friend of mine purchased one).
  11. I use the same shape for all hammers included top tools or any handled anything.. The difference is the bevel and that is about it. Just punch it round and once you get close to the desired size.. Just flatten it out some.. The eye will turn oval.. It's explained in the Set hammer and Flatter videos as well as the Hammer thread on IFI. Dogs heads, German and French hammers are about the easiest to make because the round punch to oval works perfectly and was the common way of doing it. using a Drift or Mandrel was used to forge the cheeks of the hammer to elongate that sectio
  12. Holland, Refflinghaus, Peddinghaus there is another anvil made in the USA that is 175lbs double horn London pattern. I can't remember the name but are cast 4140 IIRc. I own Refflinghaus, Peddinghaus, hay Buddens, Henry Wright, Amercian.. I like the double horn pattern and really enjoy the Refflinghaus about the best.
  13. thank you very much for posting a photo. I'm always curious about how people are finishing out their work.. (sockets, ax eyes, hinges). Thanks
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