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JenniferP

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JenniferP last won the day on June 13

JenniferP had the most liked content!

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  • Gender
    Female
  • Location
    Rutland, MA
  • Interests
    All forging aspects. Primarily involved with the colonial period to present forgings. tools, hardware, knives, swords, Nin-gu, Hammers.

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  1. I wanna say 3/4"X2" X 10" I had taken notes back when I started the project but I don't remember if it was the clip board or in the journal.. I can look tomorrow.. I know it was 3/4"X2" but not sure on length.
  2. Post up a photo of the broken axe if you can.. It might be repairable. Also if you don't mind me asking what were the weather conditions when it broke? Winter perhaps? I made this ax for heavy felling work.. With this said. the blade as explained before is designed for wear and the top, tip is always the wearing point with bad swings and such when a tree is on the ground and one is tired. This leading cutting edge is super handy for limbing as it gives just a little extra lead so leads to a slicing action. For overall size it's pretty light at only 3.75lbs head weight and is designed to be sharpened then redressed at least 2 times over it's life span.. Something which was not done that often since most would just buy a new ax or would get an older one resteeled. here you can see both the Hatchax and the Felling axe have a leading edge.. The ax head is mounted square to the handle so it is actually the cutting edge that is pulled forwards some. You can see the smaller Hatchax doe not have a leading edge any longer.. This hatchax is in need of a forge redress and heat treatment.
  3. its a rather old commercial way of doing it. While I weld the eye closed using the scarfs before inserting the steel which then leaving a gap for the steel to sit in in a separate welding heat. Using this method when perfected the steel and eye weld can be completed at the same time. thanks, You are right on the bevel and rounded out center section of the blade.. It does help to keep the blade from sticking and leverages out of a cut easier. I am often dismayed today that most axes and hatches made are flat bladed.. Not really great for deep cuts with little sticking. Its nice seeing someone else who understands this. I left his a little straighter along the cutting edge than I like with not as much Ovaling but she sure cuts nice.. This axe also has some extra material for wear.. It will take about 10 to 15 resharpenings and then it will be it's correct shape.. As it is now it has a leading top cutting edge which works well.
  4. Thanks Rob, She swings real nice. Thanks,, It is fun to finish a feller and get to makes chips for sure.
  5. I want to apologize to the group for my comment about not caring what people say or offer as opinion.. Lots of smart peoples here and sharing ideas is crucial for understanding and growth.. The reason why I phrased it the way is i fell into a trap of sorts. When I was a young smith I spent time messing around with suggestions of what was hot, or new idea, etc, etc.. Took me a long time to come back to understand I had to find what shape worked for me and every person I have met since has a handle shape that they like.. Ideally i don't want others to fall into the same trap I did.. So again I appologize. My suggestion is this: Find something that fits your hand well and base your handle on that.. See how a broom stick feels when you swing it, then feel how good a packing tape dispenser feels.. You will almost instinctive know if it feels good then figure out how to make it work as a hammer handle. I love my packing tape dispenser.. So here are some photos.. These are my main forging hammers and they all have the exactly same handle or as near as I could get it for the time used. Bottom up, 6lbs, 4lbs, 2.75lbs, 2.5lbs
  6. The only important aspect of any hammer or handle is "How it fits the user".. I personally don't care what anyone thinks about anything if it works for me.. It doesn't mean I need to be unpleasant about someones comments.. but many times things have been done on purpose, a particular way without a person knowing that.. With this said.. " Keep in mind "they" are not you and might not have the same physical problems, muscle mass, etc, etc." The only way I know if a handle is good or not is to spend time with it.. Preferably over a few days to a few weeks. (usually I will know right off if I don't like a handle).. but it will take a little longer to know if I like a handle.. Every person will have a personal preferences and suggestions and ideas of what works for them.. I've tried flat handles, short handles, long handles, round handles, forked handles, doe foot handles, springy handles, solid handles.. After 30+ years I like the shape of the handles I have which are the style in the photos. I have never known anyone who can swing a hammer fast or hard enough to get a true flex of the handle in work unless it is thin enough and then the head gets all loose when it does contact the material.. Feels sloppy to me. . about the best swingers are farriers who wanna get the work done with a 2lb hammer so swing it like they mean it. My only critique with that handle again has to do only with how I use hammers.. . That rather large lump in the middle would limit my hand position and create hot spots as I move up and down the handle in use.. But, if you only hold the hammer in that very exact spot everytime it might be the cats meow for you. I think it's great.. I started forging a wrought iron version some 4 years ago which maybe I will finish this year or not.. I'm not sure from the photo as it might be a parralex problem but it looks like the face is angled back or down in relation to the handle.. This is ok if done on purpose.. but something to keep in mind if not on purpose.
  7. Nice work Chris.. When you start working larger stock it does change the process some.. I have found over the 40+ years that the process/skill set does not change much only the time it takes to do the same operation.. This is true working with bigger materials for sure.
  8. You bring up some very interesting points.. Non Destructive testers are really neat with no deformation at all of the surface.. Your lucky to be able to work with such items. Metallurgy on a whole is very interesting and can see why you feel the way you do and your point about " Hardness" and "rebound rates" being different for different materials of the same Hardness is a great point. Gary, I'd say it was a deal.. But with this said.. they stopped making them some time ago so not easy to come by. (ebay find after a friend of mine purchased one). This type of tester really needs to be looked at for what it is and I would not call it's results as accurate for lab results.. In other words showing how it works and then someone understanding the premise behind it was more the idea of this post. Metallurgy and hardness can be a tricky slope depending on "what ones thinking is" and there are standards in place that many agree with and others do not.. As Jerrod Miller pointed out.. You can have 2 different metals of the same (hardness) but show different rebound.. The subject can get very deep. With this said.. there are options out there @john marcus pointed to, as well as so many others depending on budget that will give better, more accurate readings which can be documented. I've been doing this for over 40 years and don't need this to test for "How hard" something is based on metal used. After awhile you get a feel for the "About" hardness. but it does give a down and dirty speculative hardness if used against a known test target of that very same material and you want to have fun with your buddies.. I own 3 hardness testers and really should at some point evaluate this tester more just to see the limits it has.. The only requirement stated for the test subject is flat, clean and 1" thickness. So from a finished knife blade perspective it's useless. It has been accurate on the items tested and against 1 other tester (Ames 2200).. Doing the testing in reverse.. Use this drop tester and then test again with the Ames tester. The results were the same reading. Which of itself is interesting.
  9. I use the same shape for all hammers included top tools or any handled anything.. The difference is the bevel and that is about it. Just punch it round and once you get close to the desired size.. Just flatten it out some.. The eye will turn oval.. It's explained in the Set hammer and Flatter videos as well as the Hammer thread on IFI. Dogs heads, German and French hammers are about the easiest to make because the round punch to oval works perfectly and was the common way of doing it. using a Drift or Mandrel was used to forge the cheeks of the hammer to elongate that section for more handle support. You can see in these first photos of the hammer which has peen marks..This was punched round, then forged in to get an oval, then a mandrel was inserted.. This needs a mandrel to keep the eye from closing in on itself while the cheeks are forged. It's about 50% done.. Not sure of the final shape so it's been in limbo over a year. The hot chisel and the eye punch are just straight punched round with nearly no bevel as the handles are left straight with no wedges as they are held not swung.. Makes it easy to replace handles. The next set is for a domming hammer. I use for bowls, spoons and for Shuriken forging.
  10. Holland, Refflinghaus, Peddinghaus there is another anvil made in the USA that is 175lbs double horn London pattern. I can't remember the name but are cast 4140 IIRc. I own Refflinghaus, Peddinghaus, hay Buddens, Henry Wright, Amercian.. I like the double horn pattern and really enjoy the Refflinghaus about the best.
  11. thank you very much for posting a photo. I'm always curious about how people are finishing out their work.. (sockets, ax eyes, hinges). Thanks
  12. Fuller and split: https://youtu.be/fn5PoPkbRzA Chain tongs: https://youtu.be/u5ZcvmwIaV8
  13. So, this is the 3rd tester that will be in the teaching center. MHC Industrial Supply is what is on the instruction sheet. It's fairly heavy unit all cast iron case. There are a bunch of these sold by many different places though I think they are all made by the same company.. MSC is one such place so penetrators are pretty easy to find and can even get them on Ebay. This is a full on tester and came from a Machinist. No setup photos but these will have to do for now. HR-150A (2).pdf
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