JenniferP

I know this is an older thread.. The subject of Cutlers or File makers hammers are very limited. I have started making my cutlers hammer and was hoping you could post more detailed photos with measurements Perhaps.

Yes indeed, the inside radius is a razor.

this is a copy of an original.. it's wrapped mild steel and 5160 cutting edge and hook.. Works super mint. Started at the ABANA conference last Oct as a demo..

Thanks.. Yeah, I do all right in the metal moving department..

Hi Alan, It's my pleasure really.. Dick L.. has been so much fun to work with and to forge with.. We have been making tools in the styles I like so has been giving him a new tool, lesson and skills refinement.. He and my patreon supporters have helped fuel the videos.

So over the last few years I have been building the blacksmithing school. The gentleman whom has been helping me is also a forging person, and is into knives so it's been a great time. We have covered flat jaw tongs, and hot hardie. With knife making in mind we setup a time to forge a set of box jaw.. the most difficult type as well.. these are #2 in difficulty because of the small gap between the jaw pivot/boss and the jaw itself.

the J did come out ok.. The M washed out completely.. If I were to do it again I would use a special stamp that had a wider action. But welding the 15n20 and punching it in it sheared and was pushed down the amount of the character height. Not perfect but it can be seen from both sides.

Hi Charles, thanks.. Not actually sure where that one is going in terms of overall design elements.. It's actually bicycle chain and love how the pattern comes out.. All but the one that is getting finished were blades I forged at demos years ago and were thrown into the demo case.. I've decided to heat treat them and etch to help figure out where to go.. I'll post photos when the time comes around.. thanks

Here is an 20layer layup with lawnmower blade as the center section. Was an experiment to see if I could shear off 15n20 to get initials to stick around while forging. It worked partially, will take a little more but think I have it figured out.. Then a few I am working on over time. Still have to do the butt cap and nut.

Thanks Brian. I started my very early days as a bladesmith.. Was and interesting learning curve when I moved over to hardware and such. Please post back if you like the videos or not.. Feedback is much appreicated.

Thanks.. It was the only way I could come up with without doing a bunch more handle work. Having the bearing profile retained and inlet from the transition point being flat was fun.. Not as clean as I like, but for a prototype and time limit I'm a happy camper.

Thanks.. I think the person it's going to will get a kick out of it.. it's plenty sharp but has not had its final sharpening. I have 1 more clean up session and then it will get sent off. Sadly I have just 4 days to get to its home for the birthday person.. The copper rod came in today so was able to get them in.

I started this project a bunch of years ago and could not figure out how to get the "Timken ###### USA" on the front.. Dawned on me I could mount the steel on the outside of the wood.. While not my favorite way of doing it, this will work for a prototype build.. It's a gift. Bearing came out of 2001 F350 4X4.. Few things I will do differently next time.. The timken was upside down so had to move the riccasso and blade edge to the other side.. Lost a bunch of material that way. I wanted to make a smallish skinner but the sweep was not what I was looking for so had to change the design. I can't find my copper rivet bar to forge rivets.. So now on hold..