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JenniferP

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JenniferP last won the day on February 3

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  • Gender
    Female
  • Location
    Rutland, MA
  • Interests
    All forging aspects. Primarily involved with the colonial period to present forgings. tools, hardware, knives, swords, Nin-gu, Hammers.

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  1. So this was started a few years back 2018 as the last demo of the year. There was a little time inbetween but I was lucky to have filmed it all. The ax swings great.. In this one I finish up the preform.
  2. thanks guys. Sadly was not as straight forwards because of the funky wrought iron but it sure was challenging and fun to forge. I have a felling ax video in the works that shows the method I usually use.. Alan, I film all larger projects in the hopes of putting out "How to" DVDs but then lose interest. The New shop is coming along so once its completed I'll look at it more seriously.
  3. Part 7: Hafting in this last series I fit a handle.. Explain my process some and why I do what I do. I actually prefer the hatchet black after heat treatment, but today it is very popular to etch for the contrast and since that is what is popular I etched it. Its neat seeing how coarse the wrought iron really is and also seeing the forged grain structure.. It shows a lot about how the grain and stranding is separated and sheared.. Kind a neat for sure.
  4. Part 5: Hand finishing.. Most of the items made are hand finished.. Not only do I enjoy hand work, but being the current shop is a portable demonstration trailer.. It has limited electric and well not much room. Part 6: Heat treatment Was interesting seeing the wrought iron and steel oxidize at 2 different rates..
  5. Part 4 Change in design... The wrought iron was so course it would not forge out worth a dang.. So, I had to wait to shape the cutting edge till the 5160 was fully welded in.. Doing this keeps the wrought iron from splitting up as the steel will help hold the fibers together.
  6. Part 3 Massaging the eye.. It's how I get such a great weld up at the eye seam.
  7. As many here know I am JLP Services Inc and have a YouTube channel. This past spring I wanted a new hatchax (light hatchet head on longer handle) so filmed the process. I started out with some mystery metal as the outside and figured it was wrought iron as I worked it. Very coarse stacked layup bar with a bunch of layers in it that were not solid. Once I figured out what it was I had to change the method I usually use and will be covered in a Felling ax build on some future videos. I started a thread on the Hatchet on BSF some time ago and the video was finally edite
  8. Depending on the size of the eye of the hammer you can just use a table saw to cut the groove from both sides then go in and clean it up. There was an article in the ABANA rag last time or the time before on this handle. I made and used one many years ago and didn't like the feeling in the hand. It feels springy and torqy around the center of the handle. A larger flat face will effect the bones of the hand more so then a smaller flat face (rounder etc, etc) since there is a leverage ratio coming into play. Any time you hit only a corner of something it will send more v
  9. Looking great. Can't wait to see it finished.
  10. I wanna say 3/4"X2" X 10" I had taken notes back when I started the project but I don't remember if it was the clip board or in the journal.. I can look tomorrow.. I know it was 3/4"X2" but not sure on length.
  11. Post up a photo of the broken axe if you can.. It might be repairable. Also if you don't mind me asking what were the weather conditions when it broke? Winter perhaps? I made this ax for heavy felling work.. With this said. the blade as explained before is designed for wear and the top, tip is always the wearing point with bad swings and such when a tree is on the ground and one is tired. This leading cutting edge is super handy for limbing as it gives just a little extra lead so leads to a slicing action. For overall size it's pretty light at only 3.75lbs head weight and
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