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JenniferP

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JenniferP last won the day on January 25

JenniferP had the most liked content!

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  • Gender
    Female
  • Location
    Rutland, MA
  • Interests
    All forging aspects. Primarily involved with the colonial period to present forgings. tools, hardware, knives, swords, Nin-gu, Hammers.

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  1. I have mixed feelings about this video.. The first video was on preforms.. Great video.. the second video was a sorta Run and gun making a Dagger.. Kind of tough to do a run and gun on a symmetrical knife blade and show what run and gun is.. but again a decent video. And then this video while it shows true "Run and gun".. With such a small blade its really hard to hide any of the metal.. I do all the work by hand and I love to forge blades, and love to file them. they take a ton of time to do well. it takes me about 1-1.5 hrs to file the blade so it is ready for heat treatment.. All the cutting edges are brought down to about 0.030-0.035 in prep for heat treat.. Yes the decarb on the out skin of the knife is left in place and only the cutting edge is then sharpened. I do it all by hand.. LOL.. The reason I am saying this is because. This run and gun video would have been much better applied to a larger Kukri or combat fighter or Barong or the like.. On these you can literally forge to shape without the use of a preform because there are places to hide the metal.. You can leave a swell here or there and it can just be looked at as part of the design.. On a smallish blade like this one, all the metal has to be in place or it just looks bad.. The reason why I did not make a larger blade is the finishing factor.. I am sorta tired out of blade1, 2 and then my regular work. This knife will have a guard and a lanyard hole in the pinky drop.
  2. Nice work Matt. It is beautiful. it must be fun to swing.. Are you keeping it as a show sword or a user blade? any idea what the cutting edge hardened out to Hrc?
  3. Rob I think the work is amazing. Just went and looked at the photos again.. Brilliant. I'm not fond of round handles from an indexing standpoint.. I'm not critiquing your work.. Which is beautiful .. I just know from not only making knives for a long time but in martial arts as well.. Indexing and knowing blade position is important When you can't see the blade.. Again, I think it's stunning work.. Can you feel the weight of the edge easy enough for indexing?
  4. Rob Thanks for the info.. That is a fantastic looking blade, handle and sheath.. Do you like the round handle? Or should I ask.. Is it round? It looks round in the photos.. If it is round, do you find it hard to index properly? I'm not up on viking trends so don't know the style well in it's full splendor. I fully understand about time and counting the cases.. I'm just always curious.. it's part of the long term smith thing.. I'm always curious about time, materials and any special tools..
  5. That's great. Finding that balance of blade thickness to desired cutting performance is one of those neat things. It's always a comprise between strength, slip plain and geometry. I really like it.
  6. Nicely done.. How many hours do you figure you have into the whole build?
  7. Chris don't worry about this to much now. But just hone in on making a good taper to the blade edge on your normal single edge knives.. Once you can forge the taper in evenly on a single edged knife doing a dagger is not much different.. A solid understanding of where to hit it next is paramount in a Run and Gun type forging but with just a little guidance someone who can forge a blade outright from a preform would have no problem with a dagger from a preform..
  8. Thanks Bruno, it was fun.. Ah, editing.. Yeah.. LOL..
  9. I like it.. what did you end up with for spine thickness? it really is cute..
  10. Here are some follow up photos.. A Dagger to me should be sexy.. It should have lines that make it look like you don't want to touch it, but you have to.. There is no one definition for a dagger. But form myself it's usually what is shown in the photos.. The very tip is about 0.068 at the spine. I have maybe 20min more to clean it up and ready for heat treat. This as all blades made are by hand.. filed etc, etc.
  11. Here is a video on forging a dagger.. It is what I like to call "Run and Gun forging".. This means the blade is simple forged from stock as you go along and not use a preform.. I wanted to forge a dagger and sadly, A dagger because of the geometry and the blade profile is not a great "run and gun" example.. I had a very hard time not making a preform because Daggers are excellent when done as a preform.. ON a "Run and gun" forging session the blade width and shape are constantly being adjusted.. This adjustment occurs and then needs to be fixed again and again.. For many this is how they forge.. there is nothing wrong with this.. But, there are also ways which using Run and Gun can be applied like any technique to good value.. I love to forge daggers and my preferred method for daggers is preforms.. I had a really hard time not just switching to a preform.. The corrections in blade width and sexiness were constantly modified.. This leads to a longer forging session and I prefer to forge to finished shape.. Preform short video: https://youtu.be/s7CAzGyZWQE Preform long video: https://youtu.be/2GPFMQuMTBk and Forging a dagger, run and gun sorta..
  12. Alan, where ever you think it will do best for views.. I just want the info to get out there for people, so what ever is best..
  13. I find it varies for me on what I am trying to do.. If I have done the preform exactly 100% correct the metal is accounted for to get that crisp corner of the blade at the ricasso and choil. But I have also found it depends on the anvil I'm working on.. I have not figured out how to fully incorporate the side shelf.. Sadly in this video I have been having to preheat the anvil as it's so cold and I won't work on a cold anvil in fear of damaging it.. Not sure if you have seen the video on Tapers.. the 4lbs taper video shows a pulling motion and this can pull out this area really cleanly.. But, yes I am with you and usually teach using the peen for getting in there and doing a nice clean job. Thanks, I don't do many videos on knife making.. I was asked the direct question by another smith so this video ended up on the list. With this preform aspect and pre curves you could be all set with just a little bit of figuring out. Ooohh,, you are opening a whole discussion on keeping things centered on a blade profile.. that is a great subject.. Excellent, practice at applying this "preform " idea to your work.. You will find your forgings will go better with less finish work.. I forge my blade edges to nearly 1/16" but if you account for a little extra material you could stop shy of this, heat treat, temper and grind.. It would put you way ahead.. All of the videos I make are to teach a skill set.. they are all designed to be watched a couple of times. then go and forge something applying the information, then watch the video again. then forge again.. 3 or 4 of these watch and forge cycles and the person will have a very good grasp on the skill set.. All of the videos are designed to teach a skill. they are not really about the item made..
  14. they sure are... With preforms it can make nearly any shape possible in a very fast way.. I took my time on this blade as I wanted to get as much of the information in it as I could for a given heat.. But this process can be very fast.. Total time from start to finish was only 40 minutes.. Not filming makes it much shorter. Part 2 of the video will be filing, heat treatment, and finishing the blade. Well, I'm glad I was able to help out with this info then.. Steven, do you have anything to add, that i missed??
  15. I created a thread here on the site with both the short version of the video and the long version.. Your welcome. Yes, you can change the geometry and material quantity anytime before the edge is being applied..
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