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Everything posted by JenniferP

  1. Thanks.. I think the person it's going to will get a kick out of it.. it's plenty sharp but has not had its final sharpening. I have 1 more clean up session and then it will get sent off. Sadly I have just 4 days to get to its home for the birthday person.. The copper rod came in today so was able to get them in.
  2. I started this project a bunch of years ago and could not figure out how to get the "Timken ###### USA" on the front.. Dawned on me I could mount the steel on the outside of the wood.. While not my favorite way of doing it, this will work for a prototype build.. It's a gift. Bearing came out of 2001 F350 4X4.. Few things I will do differently next time.. The timken was upside down so had to move the riccasso and blade edge to the other side.. Lost a bunch of material that way. I wanted to make a smallish skinner but the sweep was not what I was looking for so
  3. So this was started a few years back 2018 as the last demo of the year. There was a little time inbetween but I was lucky to have filmed it all. The ax swings great.. In this one I finish up the preform.
  4. thanks guys. Sadly was not as straight forwards because of the funky wrought iron but it sure was challenging and fun to forge. I have a felling ax video in the works that shows the method I usually use.. Alan, I film all larger projects in the hopes of putting out "How to" DVDs but then lose interest. The New shop is coming along so once its completed I'll look at it more seriously.
  5. Part 7: Hafting in this last series I fit a handle.. Explain my process some and why I do what I do. I actually prefer the hatchet black after heat treatment, but today it is very popular to etch for the contrast and since that is what is popular I etched it. Its neat seeing how coarse the wrought iron really is and also seeing the forged grain structure.. It shows a lot about how the grain and stranding is separated and sheared.. Kind a neat for sure.
  6. Part 5: Hand finishing.. Most of the items made are hand finished.. Not only do I enjoy hand work, but being the current shop is a portable demonstration trailer.. It has limited electric and well not much room. Part 6: Heat treatment Was interesting seeing the wrought iron and steel oxidize at 2 different rates..
  7. Part 4 Change in design... The wrought iron was so course it would not forge out worth a dang.. So, I had to wait to shape the cutting edge till the 5160 was fully welded in.. Doing this keeps the wrought iron from splitting up as the steel will help hold the fibers together.
  8. Part 3 Massaging the eye.. It's how I get such a great weld up at the eye seam.
  9. As many here know I am JLP Services Inc and have a YouTube channel. This past spring I wanted a new hatchax (light hatchet head on longer handle) so filmed the process. I started out with some mystery metal as the outside and figured it was wrought iron as I worked it. Very coarse stacked layup bar with a bunch of layers in it that were not solid. Once I figured out what it was I had to change the method I usually use and will be covered in a Felling ax build on some future videos. I started a thread on the Hatchet on BSF some time ago and the video was finally edite
  10. Depending on the size of the eye of the hammer you can just use a table saw to cut the groove from both sides then go in and clean it up. There was an article in the ABANA rag last time or the time before on this handle. I made and used one many years ago and didn't like the feeling in the hand. It feels springy and torqy around the center of the handle. A larger flat face will effect the bones of the hand more so then a smaller flat face (rounder etc, etc) since there is a leverage ratio coming into play. Any time you hit only a corner of something it will send more v
  11. Looking great. Can't wait to see it finished.
  12. I wanna say 3/4"X2" X 10" I had taken notes back when I started the project but I don't remember if it was the clip board or in the journal.. I can look tomorrow.. I know it was 3/4"X2" but not sure on length.
  13. Post up a photo of the broken axe if you can.. It might be repairable. Also if you don't mind me asking what were the weather conditions when it broke? Winter perhaps? I made this ax for heavy felling work.. With this said. the blade as explained before is designed for wear and the top, tip is always the wearing point with bad swings and such when a tree is on the ground and one is tired. This leading cutting edge is super handy for limbing as it gives just a little extra lead so leads to a slicing action. For overall size it's pretty light at only 3.75lbs head weight and
  14. its a rather old commercial way of doing it. While I weld the eye closed using the scarfs before inserting the steel which then leaving a gap for the steel to sit in in a separate welding heat. Using this method when perfected the steel and eye weld can be completed at the same time. thanks, You are right on the bevel and rounded out center section of the blade.. It does help to keep the blade from sticking and leverages out of a cut easier. I am often dismayed today that most axes and hatches made are flat bladed.. Not really great for deep cuts with little stic
  15. Thanks Rob, She swings real nice. Thanks,, It is fun to finish a feller and get to makes chips for sure.
  16. I want to apologize to the group for my comment about not caring what people say or offer as opinion.. Lots of smart peoples here and sharing ideas is crucial for understanding and growth.. The reason why I phrased it the way is i fell into a trap of sorts. When I was a young smith I spent time messing around with suggestions of what was hot, or new idea, etc, etc.. Took me a long time to come back to understand I had to find what shape worked for me and every person I have met since has a handle shape that they like.. Ideally i don't want others to fall into the same trap I
  17. The only important aspect of any hammer or handle is "How it fits the user".. I personally don't care what anyone thinks about anything if it works for me.. It doesn't mean I need to be unpleasant about someones comments.. but many times things have been done on purpose, a particular way without a person knowing that.. With this said.. " Keep in mind "they" are not you and might not have the same physical problems, muscle mass, etc, etc." The only way I know if a handle is good or not is to spend time with it.. Preferably over a few days to a few weeks. (usually I will k
  18. Nice work Chris.. When you start working larger stock it does change the process some.. I have found over the 40+ years that the process/skill set does not change much only the time it takes to do the same operation.. This is true working with bigger materials for sure.
  19. You bring up some very interesting points.. Non Destructive testers are really neat with no deformation at all of the surface.. Your lucky to be able to work with such items. Metallurgy on a whole is very interesting and can see why you feel the way you do and your point about " Hardness" and "rebound rates" being different for different materials of the same Hardness is a great point. Gary, I'd say it was a deal.. But with this said.. they stopped making them some time ago so not easy to come by. (ebay find after a friend of mine purchased one).
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