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  1. Thanks . It start as a survival/archeological experiment. Mild steel fleshing tools progressed to questions about making steel. You know the progression better than I do. Funny part was one fleshing tool ended up in England where they are going to conduct edge wear comparisons
  2. Approx. .25 x 6 inch. Started with clean steel. depth of hardness was maybe 1/16 inch or less. Guess it falls in line with some of the studies I read for time and carbon transfer per hour but easily less than half what i got with mild steel.
  3. Cap welded cannisters, threw in propane forge and was promptly rewarded with cannisters that swelled to point of popping pinholes in welds. Since the worries about dodging shrapnel was averted I continued to heat. Cannister 1 was a preshaped KSO Canister 2 was a piece of wagon wrought iron circa 1880/90s Soaked for about 1hr. 30 minutes. 2100 deg F. Pulverized ulverized lump oak Charcoal, pulverized, @20% crushed rock salt and @ 20% crushed oyster shells. Not very scientific. Canister 1, nice looking steel that had case hardening depth around 2-3mm. tempered at 400f for 2 hours. A file skates. Will do a final grind and maybe remember to a reasonable rockwell Canister 2, wrought iron, very little blistering but it looked promising. Thought I'd see more blisters since this isn't the best wrought quality however when cleaned and etched it was showing some hardening depth and nicer sparks. Going back in new can to see how it does with longer soak Overall an interesting experiment.
  4. Thanks for clarification. The CO retention fits with everything I'd read. The confusion came in after watching YT and someone specifically mention the hole for safety then another said weld up tight specifically for CO reaction. Figured I'd ask people with better reputations than YT cowboys
  5. Friends got me curious about making blister/shear steel and caburizing mild steel. I'm using steel container and can't seem to find an answer. IS the container is welded airtight or a pin hole left in it. Maybe I've missed it. Watched Rics, Kevin's videos and several others and I think i hear them saying weld it tight/ no airholes. On the other hand when I make canister steel I leave a small hole or drill one Just don't want a bomb in my forge Thanks
  6. I think we need to see we need to see some specs (thickness)on your metal and a complete drawing. The unique handle design gives me thought you have other unique design features you want. I'm thinking you want a stylized Rambo jungle knife
  7. You indicated that you wanted a quite forge and that i thought I was providing an valid option. Sorry if my input caused you distress and confusion.
  8. A ribbon burner doesn't need that big a fan to run efficiently. Mine is a 1/30 hp Dayton squirrel cage blower that'll fit in your hand with a water shut off value inline to adjust airflow. It's quiet enough to hold normal conversations.
  9. Heritage today article on amazingly well preserved bronze age sword. Handle is intricately designed. True artistry if real
  10. Unless you drown the billet in borax the forge floor should last while and the fire bricks are replaceable. Before I tried the no flux weld my floor lasted easily a year.
  11. Not sure about Eurocut brand but that style knife was mass produced by Solingin in 50/60s.
  12. I'd follow Timgunns advice of copying ur friends. U know it works. The 45 degree diffuser is needed on top fed ribbon burners to ensure fuel distribution. I made my Frosty style Rb with a side fuel entrance and it doesnt need a 45. I don't have a automatic fuel shut that some recommend as the when power goes out it acts like a Naturally aspirated burner albeit smaller flames. Never had the flame go out. As to jet size I'm using the .35 mig tip that came with my NA burner from High speed tool and refractory., took his burner, added a drop pipe with ball valve and blower like urs, tied in my ribbon burner, works fine so far.
  13. Just my 2 cents . I thnk you really need to rethink and do some studying on the technical aspects. I'm not saying a beginner can't do it but there are numerous obstacles to overcome. Mainly the temperatures required to weld 1095/15n20 and copper. If it was me, I'd weld the core, clean it and assemble the final billet that way I don't exceed the coppers melt temp when trying to forge weld the 1095/15n20 Good luck,
  14. That's one beautiful piece of work
  15. Kinda explains why basketball ball stayed on as a sport and the anvil toss died out years ago.
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