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  1. Nice knife, nice inlay. Well done! Ditto on the Fiebings. I cut mine 50/50 or more with rubbing alcohol. Allows me to walk the color in with multiple applications. Also the feibings gets darker when a finish is applied.
  2. 2 cents! FYI, if you buy one be careful when you do your initial cut. All the ones I've cut seem to be under tension, so when you cut it pinches the saw blade and when cut through tends to spring together and over lap. Also grain runs with the rim circumference.
  3. Have you thought about finding a someone who makes folders in your area an getting a class. Might save time an money in the long run.
  4. You're on the right track. Use mystery steel test. Rather than making a whole blade just cut a small rectangular piece, heat to proper temp, quench and break it. Bends its not good , breaks you got something to play with.
  5. Ditto what Alan said on temps. Way, way to hot. Personally I use miod steel cans, 52100 bearings, 1080, 1084 or 1095 powder with a small percentage of nickel powder to add contrast. No nickel, Not much contrast. Heat to 2290/2300F and soak for at least 15 minutes or longer depending on my patience. Longer is better. Also try to darken room while heating so I can see color of metal. BUT since I never use stainless cans I don't know how the colors would look. Good luck
  6. RLOL. THANKS for the wrapping bricks suggestion. I'm a bachelor so I never gave that a thought when telling married friends about heat treat in ovens.
  7. Sorry. I didn't mean the forge heat I meant the the heat at the interior of the billet. If you have those cracks/defects in the center of the bullet you arent letting it soak long enough. If your pyrometer is reading true the 2400F is plenty hot for welding Alan hit on packing the can, compaction dies, and not taking too big a bite on initial compactions.
  8. Me, I'd count it as a loss. I suggest cutting it in 2 at the large crack and check the interior welds. No expert here but I suspect the interior wasn't hot enough.
  9. If you havent watched it, take a peak at Jay Nielsen (forged in fire, master smith ) web site. Hes got a good video of making canister damascus. Nice explanation of process
  10. I've had similar issues when using thin wall tube for canisters and thin pieces for the end caps. What are you using for dies? I use a pyrometer but also my eye. When it goes white hot I let it soak for at least another 15 minutes. Avoid temptation to try and compress to much on the first few compressions small even compressions along full length, until u feel it firm up.
  11. Never done a rasp. However a little search showed that heller rasp can be finicky. Some are only case hardened. Old topic on another forum revealed problems. Matthew FYI. Just a heads up. Daggers can be illegal to own in several states. Not that it ever bothered me.
  12. Jarons got some good advice. I found my toaster oven ran 20f high.. Ive found that my damascus does well at 425 f in my oven.. I use 1080/4 and 15n20, the occasional 1095. I get good edges with nice edge retention in those temp ranges.
  13. Don't confuse the colors your steel achieve during an oven tempering or even in a forge with tempering by as they say running the colors. Steel oxidizes as its heated and any contamination on the steel causes different colors. If you Tempered it again and the colors would change. As far as hardness that's going to depend on the tempering temperature, the type of steel. Was this steel you made, or did you buy an unknown steel online? Did you use Fahrenheit or centigrade. Too many unknowns to give a answer.
  14. Smart man! Gremlins are strange creatures. Sometimes all it takes to satisfy them is a short coffee break. Other times its best to walk away for a day, maybe more. My theory is they need to borrow the shop to sharpen tools or make a knife. Give them the time they need and things go right. The bigger their project is in direct proportion to the trouble they create.
  15. Just my 2 cents. Never had any trouble with Njsb.
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