Jump to content

vlegski

Members
  • Posts

    73
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Reputation

22 Excellent

Recent Profile Visitors

470 profile views
  1. I concur with the handmade aspect of this object. As for a bayonet they usually have two points of attachment . That Kso has no barrel attachments either on the quard or butt of handle. Even as modified as it is It would not pass any standards test required by militaries for bayonets or cutting tools. And as pointed out earlier it looks to be a file converted to a tool.
  2. FYI, Forged in Fire did these knives in one of their shows. Contestants used different techniques/ approaches. If I remember one used the technique suggested by Alan, the other used a one piece approach. You can probably find the show on internet.
  3. Brings back memories of a FIF where they gave them 3 inch 52100 balls. Biggest problem encountered was working material too soon. Participants were working material before interior metal was to temp, and taking too big a bite on initial forming. lots of cracking because of that.
  4. Still too much blue flame indicating incomplete burn of fuel. Dons mentioned most of the usual problem factors. 1. I'd do a burn test outside of the forge. If it burns right than your forge is problem. It might be too air tight. 2. If you can try removing the front and back of forge to allow more air flow. 3. Check you wind direction. Sometime a light breeze can blow those oxygen depleted fumes back over the burner intake. That can cause similar burn problems
  5. 1. Try more on line research concerning coal forge construction. You might try looking into I forge iron,, or anvil fire. Read! Tons of material on line. More variations of coal forge than you think. Maybe try to make Jabod forge. 2. You mentioned you were stressing. DON'T, based on your age you've got a life time to learn. Before asking a question try researching you question first. Its not that I want to discourage questions. But your questions have been answered on more than one site.
  6. Try the folkes at High temperature Tools and refractory.
  7. That sure looks like the one i have but its not the same name. Mines now relegated to a wall ornament. Shoot the walls of the forge and its shows 1900 f shoot the steel it says 1850f. But eyes are saying its welding temp. Right now I'm looking into the.. infurider yf 1500 c. Saw it last week during my time with a Master bladesmith. Seemed accurate Just my 2 cents.
  8. Nice knife, nice inlay. Well done! Ditto on the Fiebings. I cut mine 50/50 or more with rubbing alcohol. Allows me to walk the color in with multiple applications. Also the feibings gets darker when a finish is applied.
  9. 2 cents! FYI, if you buy one be careful when you do your initial cut. All the ones I've cut seem to be under tension, so when you cut it pinches the saw blade and when cut through tends to spring together and over lap. Also grain runs with the rim circumference.
  10. Have you thought about finding a someone who makes folders in your area an getting a class. Might save time an money in the long run.
  11. You're on the right track. Use mystery steel test. Rather than making a whole blade just cut a small rectangular piece, heat to proper temp, quench and break it. Bends its not good , breaks you got something to play with.
  12. Ditto what Alan said on temps. Way, way to hot. Personally I use miod steel cans, 52100 bearings, 1080, 1084 or 1095 powder with a small percentage of nickel powder to add contrast. No nickel, Not much contrast. Heat to 2290/2300F and soak for at least 15 minutes or longer depending on my patience. Longer is better. Also try to darken room while heating so I can see color of metal. BUT since I never use stainless cans I don't know how the colors would look. Good luck
  13. RLOL. THANKS for the wrapping bricks suggestion. I'm a bachelor so I never gave that a thought when telling married friends about heat treat in ovens.
×
×
  • Create New...