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Everything posted by vlegski

  1. Kinda explains why basketball ball stayed on as a sport and the anvil toss died out years ago.
  2. Just an aside. FYI ... A gentleman ( Frosty) on the I forge iron forum, built what he calls a naturally aspirated ribbon burn, NARB. I don't remember if he got welding heat from it. It's an older thread but he details his build. It might be of use in your search for a ribbon burner. I use his burner head details with a small blower in my forge.
  3. If no one on this site comes up with info you might try another site called Blade forums. I saw where at least one person in their Sword section on that sight seemed fairly knowledgeable about such swords.
  4. I concur with the handmade aspect of this object. As for a bayonet they usually have two points of attachment . That Kso has no barrel attachments either on the quard or butt of handle. Even as modified as it is It would not pass any standards test required by militaries for bayonets or cutting tools. And as pointed out earlier it looks to be a file converted to a tool.
  5. FYI, Forged in Fire did these knives in one of their shows. Contestants used different techniques/ approaches. If I remember one used the technique suggested by Alan, the other used a one piece approach. You can probably find the show on internet.
  6. Brings back memories of a FIF where they gave them 3 inch 52100 balls. Biggest problem encountered was working material too soon. Participants were working material before interior metal was to temp, and taking too big a bite on initial forming. lots of cracking because of that.
  7. Still too much blue flame indicating incomplete burn of fuel. Dons mentioned most of the usual problem factors. 1. I'd do a burn test outside of the forge. If it burns right than your forge is problem. It might be too air tight. 2. If you can try removing the front and back of forge to allow more air flow. 3. Check you wind direction. Sometime a light breeze can blow those oxygen depleted fumes back over the burner intake. That can cause similar burn problems
  8. 1. Try more on line research concerning coal forge construction. You might try looking into I forge iron,, or anvil fire. Read! Tons of material on line. More variations of coal forge than you think. Maybe try to make Jabod forge. 2. You mentioned you were stressing. DON'T, based on your age you've got a life time to learn. Before asking a question try researching you question first. Its not that I want to discourage questions. But your questions have been answered on more than one site.
  9. Try the folkes at High temperature Tools and refractory.
  10. That sure looks like the one i have but its not the same name. Mines now relegated to a wall ornament. Shoot the walls of the forge and its shows 1900 f shoot the steel it says 1850f. But eyes are saying its welding temp. Right now I'm looking into the.. infurider yf 1500 c. Saw it last week during my time with a Master bladesmith. Seemed accurate Just my 2 cents.
  11. Nice knife, nice inlay. Well done! Ditto on the Fiebings. I cut mine 50/50 or more with rubbing alcohol. Allows me to walk the color in with multiple applications. Also the feibings gets darker when a finish is applied.
  12. 2 cents! FYI, if you buy one be careful when you do your initial cut. All the ones I've cut seem to be under tension, so when you cut it pinches the saw blade and when cut through tends to spring together and over lap. Also grain runs with the rim circumference.
  13. Have you thought about finding a someone who makes folders in your area an getting a class. Might save time an money in the long run.
  14. You're on the right track. Use mystery steel test. Rather than making a whole blade just cut a small rectangular piece, heat to proper temp, quench and break it. Bends its not good , breaks you got something to play with.
  15. Ditto what Alan said on temps. Way, way to hot. Personally I use miod steel cans, 52100 bearings, 1080, 1084 or 1095 powder with a small percentage of nickel powder to add contrast. No nickel, Not much contrast. Heat to 2290/2300F and soak for at least 15 minutes or longer depending on my patience. Longer is better. Also try to darken room while heating so I can see color of metal. BUT since I never use stainless cans I don't know how the colors would look. Good luck
  16. RLOL. THANKS for the wrapping bricks suggestion. I'm a bachelor so I never gave that a thought when telling married friends about heat treat in ovens.
  17. Sorry. I didn't mean the forge heat I meant the the heat at the interior of the billet. If you have those cracks/defects in the center of the bullet you arent letting it soak long enough. If your pyrometer is reading true the 2400F is plenty hot for welding Alan hit on packing the can, compaction dies, and not taking too big a bite on initial compactions.
  18. Me, I'd count it as a loss. I suggest cutting it in 2 at the large crack and check the interior welds. No expert here but I suspect the interior wasn't hot enough.
  19. If you havent watched it, take a peak at Jay Nielsen (forged in fire, master smith ) web site. Hes got a good video of making canister damascus. Nice explanation of process
  20. I've had similar issues when using thin wall tube for canisters and thin pieces for the end caps. What are you using for dies? I use a pyrometer but also my eye. When it goes white hot I let it soak for at least another 15 minutes. Avoid temptation to try and compress to much on the first few compressions small even compressions along full length, until u feel it firm up.
  21. Never done a rasp. However a little search showed that heller rasp can be finicky. Some are only case hardened. Old topic on another forum revealed problems. Matthew FYI. Just a heads up. Daggers can be illegal to own in several states. Not that it ever bothered me.
  22. Jarons got some good advice. I found my toaster oven ran 20f high.. Ive found that my damascus does well at 425 f in my oven.. I use 1080/4 and 15n20, the occasional 1095. I get good edges with nice edge retention in those temp ranges.
  23. Don't confuse the colors your steel achieve during an oven tempering or even in a forge with tempering by as they say running the colors. Steel oxidizes as its heated and any contamination on the steel causes different colors. If you Tempered it again and the colors would change. As far as hardness that's going to depend on the tempering temperature, the type of steel. Was this steel you made, or did you buy an unknown steel online? Did you use Fahrenheit or centigrade. Too many unknowns to give a answer.
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