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Jeremy Blohm

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Everything posted by Jeremy Blohm

  1. Just double checked and the dimensions of what I ordered and they are 3 ½" round x 2 ½" I was about to order the other one till I stumbled upon this one....oops
  2. And I heat treated this big hammer after a rough grind and then tempered it. Came out of the temper with a crack in one of the faces. I just ordered 2 ½ inches of 5 ⅜ inch round to make another.
  3. Thank you!!! I was having withdrawals!!!!
  4. @Alex Middleton came over and forged for a few hours about a month ago and he brought this 4140 die of some sort and left it behind....well today I started forging it into a BIG rounding hammer. I ran out of charcoal and I ran out of energy. This is by far the biggest piece if steel I've ever worked!!!!
  5. Viking camp axe Vs. maple And here it is after some grinding
  6. The bits seem easy enough to make. I have a power hammer. That would be all the machine I would need!
  7. In the 4 the picture I see a 3 ¼ stamp. Must be the weight?
  8. I have some Seymour hammer handles being shipped to me right now. I guess I didnt realize that. I plan to make an axe like this one and use the same welding methods.
  9. The way the body is inset into the bit Vs. the bit into the body. Look near the poll for any markings. This is my favorite handle maker. https://lamacaaxes.com/products/owens-axe-and-handle-replacement-handles
  10. I'm pretty sure that's a Jersey pattern Emerson & Steven's Co. Axe. Here is a video on how they were made.
  11. On my 60 lb hammer I built I originally had a hollow anvil and a 3/4 hp motor and was seriously disappointed. I then rebuilt it with a 500 lb anvil and a 1.5 hp motor, the difference was tenfold.
  12. The bell reducer on the end should be a step up not down in size. Also the bell reducer is not needed once it gets in the forge. The reducer on the end is disrupting the venturi effect is my guess. Can we get some more detailed pictures of the whole set up?
  13. Okay it was a big acid mess but no not in the kitchen....
  14. I cut and stacked the billet and forge welded it one more time to refine it a bit. Ended with a delam on one end but there is 14 inches of useable material. I didnt have any flux so I sprayed a little PB Blaster on it and kept it high in the fire. I'm etching one end to see what the pattern looks like. I had a little acid accident so I'm low on my etchant.
  15. Try something like this. W1 is excellent knife steel. https://www.metalsdepot.com/tool-steel-products/w1-drill-rod?gclid=CjwKCAjwwYP2BRBGEiwAkoBpAv7QErJqxb9xW3CywyZaWUhSNkl3z-40TNWqPvlpOUS3cppMBHnbXxoCEbwQAvD_BwE
  16. That is absolutely alright!!! Tonight after dinner with the in-laws I will fire up the forge and cut and stack this piece one more time to refine it a little more and I will forge it out into a bar but I will send you more like 12-16 inches worth of material so you have plenty to play with.
  17. What width, thickness and lengths would you like?
  18. No a vice wont give enough pressure and will actually rob the heat from the billet being welded. A hand hammer would be better than an vice. This is how hot wrought iron needs to be worked. This is a bar that I will either make an axe with or refine some more for you if you want it Conner!
  19. It's ok if you have a few sparklers with wrought iron. It likes the really high heat. Watch some of Joey Vandersteeg's videos on YouTube refining some iron bloom and he works a lot with wrought iron. He also has excellent cameras and you can really see what's going on.
  20. If you can get the entire parameter of the billet welded stainless should forge weld just fine to W2. Then grind off all the edges where the weld is. I can work some of this wagon tire down a bit to refine it so it's a little easier to work. I would though suggest working it in your coal forge. I personally like working wrought iron with charcoal.
  21. Using en45 you will get higher hardness in water than oil. Honestly I think you will almost always get a higher hardness using water over oil.
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