Jeremy Blohm

Yeah but there is potential and when its all done would essentially be an old/new anvil

http://www.jnjonlineauction.com/detail.asp?id=654734&n=9550P33-HUGE-ANVIL

jnjonlineauction.com just search anvil and you will find it

There is and anvil on an online auction site and it appears to be a discarded anvil due to a defective casting. There is a line that travels from the back of the anvil by the base and goes accross the face, up the horn and down the front to the base. The face appears to three different heights and the tip of the horn is defective also. There is no visable markings. There is a notch out of the back base, not a square handling hole but a square notch. There is a hardie hole but no pritchel. It appears to be around 100 to 125 pounds and cast steel. Im going to check it out in person tomorrow and i will bring a scale and take pictures to post. My question is would it be worth trying to get and having the face milled down and the horn ground into shape. And being it is a discard has it been heat treated or is that something that is done later in the process. Any answers would be appreciated the auction ends thursday so i have a few days for you guys to make up my mind. Thank you!!!

Check out Danocon's power hammer build and watch some of the final videos he posted and it vaguely showes his forge and that seems like a traditional japanese forge. Its really a neat set up he has. He is truly a talented feller. The title is Tire/Japanese Spring Power Hammer Build I found it by putting tire in the search engine and it was about half way down the page or it's in the tools and tool making section on the first page

If you are interested in making a propane forge, type in "weed" in the search engine of this forum and you will see my post about the burner i made. It is really simple and it is possible to bolt on the flat stock versus welding it on. And as far as the forge chamber itself it can be made with fire brick from tractor supply instead of the kaowool. The best part of my burner is the fact that it only uses 3 parts aside from having to buy the weed burner. And you dont have to build a fire, you can work inside with good ventilation, no need for a blower, you stay fairly clean, and you dont have to breath all the nasty crap. I ran a coal forge for a long time and i wish i would have put all that time and money into propane. And i agree with chris. There is alot of info floating around you judt hsve to figure out how to reach ok ut and grab it.

Yes sir. I am not using a regulator just the needle valve on the torch. And this burner set up is fully capable of welding also. I have welded several times with it and had no trouble getting to temperature as long as you are hooked up to a 100lb cylinder or have a full 20lb and even then you are sucking so much from the tank it starts to frost and you have a huge loss in pressure when that happens.

Ok i tried posting pictures directly from the camera and no luck. I will take it to the library and upload from there or I will make a YouTube video and post a link. Sorry for taking so long to post pictures but i have been a so occupied with building my power hammer I've lost sight of everything else. I will start another topic on that if i can figure out how to post pictures.

So i got pictures of everything and now i cant figure out how to upload here from the gallery on my phone. Any help wiuld be appreciated. Otherwise i will attempt to post pictures directly from the camera.

Sound's like you might be onto something. When i first looked into the cost of all the lining's and parts it take's to build a forge that would actually last a while and withstand the flux from welding and all the other things we abuse or forge's with and it just seemed like it was going te be endless, turns out i was right. But what your talking about here would be a great way for someone to get started. And maby, just maby it could turn into a realy money maker.

So i have been looking around on the internet for info on people using a weed burner/roofing torch for there forge and people have been but with terrible results. I figured it out and decided to share with everyone here since nobody has shared there discovery if anyone has actually done this. First off you need a harbor freight roofing/weed burning torch. But you need the one without the igniter or anything similar that the bell/burner can be screwed off. 1 1/4 pipe 12 inches long. Threaded on one end. 1 1/4-2 inch bell reducer. 1 inch wide flat stock. Tools include a drill, welder, 5/8 drill bit, grinder with grinding wheel So here comes the difficult part. Cut the flat stock the width of the 2 inch end of the bell reducer. Drill your 5/8 hole dead center in the flat stock. Grind some off the sides of the flat stock to make for more air flow. Weld the flat stock to the 2 inch end of the bell reducer with the hole directly over the center. Now screw the bell reducer to the 1 1/4 pipe and the burner is complete. The flat stock can be drilled and tapped into the sides of the bell reducer if you dont have access to a welder. And the flat stock can be drilled and tapped for the weed burner to screw into. But these are all things that can be improved upon. It works perfect the way i have it set up. Now all i did was set up a post next to the forge so you can zip tie the hose if the weed burner to it and with the end off the weed burner set it in the hole of the flat stock pionted directly down the burner pipe. This is basically the same concept as the Ron Reil burner just uses different parts. I happend apon this design by chance. One day i was in the mood for a change and i wanted to make the big transition from coal to propane so i did my research and found a burner i liked. So i go to the hardware store and i get to the pipe fittings and the shelves are almost bare. The wheels started turning. So i gather an arm full of stuff and decide i will start tinkering. Well nothing was going right from grabbing wrong size fittings to drilling offset holes. So i started getting frustrated. I start going through all the drawers in the shop looking for all kinds of stuff i know we dont have. Thats when i looked up and seen the torch hanging on the wall. The wheels started turning again. Anyways it wasnt more than an hour later i had a functioning burner. I will get pictures of everything and post in a day or two!!!

Hey there Alan, Any idea is a good idea until proven otherwise! I guess the fire brick is hard then. But i did get about 75 12"x12" fire board that is about 3/4 of an inch thick and a bunch of other sizes too. I got all of this from a place called Hawken Energy. It was an out door wood boiler manufacturer that just recently went belly up. And lucky for me it is anout a mile away from my house. So the day they had the open veiwing before the online auction i went there and took a stroll around. And came across the pallet of max wool. Then came auction time. Come to find it wasn't just the pallet but the rack and bricks and a bunch of other stuff. So i won the auction at $107 and after tax and fees it came to $128. I went to pick up said items and there was another customer there getting his stuff and he offers me $50 for the pallet rack it was sitting on so i took that offer real quick like. All i wanted was the contents so i recouped some cash without having to lift a finger.

Thanks for the info. The fire brick is Insulating. The same stuff they sell at tractor supply for 2.49 a brick.

I was just making sure it will hold up to the temps. Even if i have to replace it a little sooner than the HTZ i just picked up 17 boxes of half inch thick 48 inches wide and 300 inches long and a pallet of fire brick at auction for $80. So hopefully i have a lifetime supply of both.

Has any one used the nutec max wool hps for there forge lining? If so what do you think off it? Dose it last? How much did you pay?