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Jeremy Blohm

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Everything posted by Jeremy Blohm

  1. I just weighed this thing and it's at 36.4 ounces and I'm glad you guys talked me down on heat treating it. I did a bunch more straightening and I'm draw filing the distal taper in some more and working on the fullers. Thank you guys for the help!!!
  2. Honestly face hardness can be what you want it to be. Me personally like to temper my hammers way back because I love my anvils. I usually temper my personal hammers to about 550°f which yields around 45-48 Rockwell. The hammers I will sell will be tempered at 475°f to get 50-53 Rockwell unless asked for higher or lower hardness.
  3. What hardness should I shoot for with 1080? Assuming it's close to 1080. Would 50rc be too hard?
  4. What does everyone think about water buffalo horn for the hilt and etched wrought iron for the fittings?
  5. I have a 1x18 hand held belt sander. Cant remember what its called. I looked into getting the "dragster" belt sander just because of the really small wheel.
  6. Yeah it will only be used for temperimg. I need to come up with a better way to temper things. The wife is sick of openig the oven to see my blades or hammers in it. I'm trying to think of how to make a divider of sorts to block off sections of the oven so I dont have to heat the whole thing for a hammer.
  7. There is also this one but I'm not sure if I like it or not.
  8. I have my quartz counter top that had a nice beveled edge that fits the fuller almost perfectly. Think it would work?
  9. Would this work https://www.harborfreight.com/Dual-Input-Contact-Thermometer-63980.html
  10. I thought about making a sort of burn chamber to try to keep it cooler. Where might I find a thermocouple locally?
  11. So I did a little playing with my design when Alex Middleton came and forged and I made 2 more hammers like the one I made him. Here is the 3 "types" of Japanese bladesmiths hammers. I call these type I type II type III Let me know which ones you guys like and I can make it to that particular style. Type I and II will have smaller eyes from here on out
  12. Nice I will have to get those. One question is would the burners be better above the blade so you dont get hot spots where the flame is hottest?
  13. This is what I came up with. I'm going to have to do the Jesus Hernandez's idea with the black iron pipe. I have some laying around somewhere.
  14. I got my big forge set to run in the vertical position.
  15. I've been looking at historical examples of all kinds of blades from viking to Arabian and a lot of the fullers aren't perfect. I've seen a sword with a triple fuller on each side of the blade and the two short fullers beside the long central fuller weren't square with each other. I mean not even close. So it makes me feel a little better about my fuller!!!
  16. This is the tempering oven I'm going to build. I got into this craft wanting to make Damascus swords and now it's been 5 years and I'm just now working on my first mono-steel sword! I started gathering all these materials 2 years ago and im finally going to build it. Here is the materials I have so far. This is on the big side but I wanted to be sure to have room for just about any kind of straightening jig I may need. In the metal box is ceramic fiber board and the cardboard box is kaowool. I have a Turkey fryer burner with a low pressure regulator (not good for a mi
  17. Thank you Joshua I have looked at that once before but never really sat down to comprehend everything. Thank you AJ. I will look into brass or bronze but my original plan was some Gnarly wrought iron I have for the fittings. I backed out of heat treating yesterday because I don't have a way to temper it yet except for the oxy-acetylene torch to do a flash temper. I've been gathering everything I need to build a tempering oven and last night I went to my brothers shop and picked everything up and today I will be assembling it. I will start a topic on that later today.
  18. Hey Alan would this 3 inch contact wheel work for what I wanna do? https://usaknifemaker.com/wheel-contact-wheel-2-10-1-2-bore-rubber.html
  19. I'm going to have to do that with my grinder!!! Tonight I'm going to heat treat this thing. I'm going to use my little venturi burner in my big forge set vertically. I got it straightened to the best of my abilities and ground as thin as I dare to go. Historically what kind of hilt would a sword like this have? All I'm finding is modern reproductions. What should I look for to get good references?
  20. Had to modify my quench tank to be able to fit the sword. With the heat rises affect can I heat the oil in just the upper chamber for heat treating knives and axes or high carbon hammers?
  21. Here is some pictures (crappy pictures) of the sword I'm working on. I will admit that the fuller is off and I'm trying to fix it. I'm grinding it in with the bottom 2 inch idler wheel of my grinder. I can see how a grinder that tips on its side can be very beneficial. Also I might have made the fuller about an inch longer than the oakeshott xiia? I will try to get better photos when I get some more daylight today. 33 inch blade Forged from railroad track (1080?) https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oakeshott_typology
  22. First test hammer with the new tooling. The top if the eye has this little defect which I believe came from driving the drift in through the top with the power hammer because of the angle of the eye it drove the drift twords the rear instead of driving it in straight. Today I'm going to make another one but in going to drive the drift through the top by hand.
  23. this reminds me of when my wife first brought up me getting a power hammer. I was looking into getting a BIG anvil and she asked how much more would it be for me to get a hammer. I LOVE MY WIFE!!!
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