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Grant Saxman

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Grant Saxman last won the day on April 12 2018

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  1. Hi everyone! I've got a nice new kitchen knife that I just finished up and am ready to show, hope yall like it The blade is san mai with wrought iron cladding, a pure nickel shim, and a W2 core. I gave it a dark etch in ferric chloride for some really great contrast. The blade itself is a beast, coming in right around 270mm. Despite its length, it is relatively light and features a smooth distal taper from 3/16" at the handle down to just under 3/32" at the end of the spine. the blade is just under 2" tall and my XXL hands easily clear the cutting board when chopping and slicing wi
  2. Nice looking blade, especially for your first! For your heat treat, a 400 degree temper should bring your O1 to a good level of hardness for a kitchen blade. Ideally, your temper cycles should be longer than 1 hour (usually 2 hours), because 1 hour is the minimum amount of time required for tempering to fully resolve in most steels. And you should definitely be doing 2 tempering cycles for O1, your first tempering cycle will convert all martensite to tempered martensite, but upon cooling to room temperature (or lower), retained austenite in the blade will be converted to untempered marte
  3. Straight razors are very technical blades. They 100% can be done entirely from damascus, if you are having the different layers react differently mechanically, then you most likely haven't gotten the heat treat down perfectly, or you did not allow enough time/heat for carbon migration (unlikely except in very low, thick layer billets). It's possible that the alloys you are using in Damascus aren't ideal, but i don't think that should be a big deal. I would also not underestimate the importance of the grind! Most makers use small wheels for a hollow grind that goes almost all the way to the spi
  4. Has the black palm been stabilized? I personally would never use that stuff without stabilizing it first. Even when stabilized it is a pain to work with. Make sure to watch out for warping as well, I've had a lot of issues with some of my stock warping in moisture and temperature changes, occasionally enough to break epoxy bonds on the handle. The knife looks great though, I really like the color scheme and am totally digging the bolster, nice execution there.
  5. Looks to me like there's some carbon migration there that's causing the halo. Same kind of effect that you get on stainless san mai if you hold it at high temp for long enough. This theory is supported by the fact that the halo is widest and most visible on the outside of the rods where they are touching all that high carbon steel, but not so much on the inside where they are touching each other and there isn't so much of a carbon concentration gradient. Very cool! And the blade looks absolutely stunning right now, that's a brilliant pattern, can't wait to see it finished!
  6. That's good to hear. I've got an idea for a themed yari that I wanna try out over the summer, and it uses inlay pretty extensively
  7. Hi everyone! I'd like to show you a project I've been working on and off on since the end of summer. It's not a knife, but I originally started this project in order to learn inlay techniques that I would then be able to carry over and use on knives. I figured I might as well start with a massive project and then get some tips and feedback from the very talented makers who frequent this forum. The project itself is a custom mahjong table. For those of you have never played or heard of the game before, it's a tile based game that originated in China. My friends and I play a Japanese bra
  8. Thanks for the input Steve. The handle was a bit hard because it's not a very typical handle and I didn't have anything to really model it after, so I just drafted it up on paper as best I could and went from there. But I can definitely see what you mean. And the wood is definitely one of the coolest pieces i've ever used! Visually, it looks like it would be really rough, but the stabilization allows it to be polished up like a stone. I chose a piece without too much spalting because I didn't want it to be too busy, but I've seen some pieces of jatoba before with some of the craziest spal
  9. Thanks for your input, I appreciate it. I didn't end up making a sheath, once I finished the blade I was trying to decide whether or not to do a stand or a sheath, and I ended up going with the stand because I thought it would be unlikely for someone to carry a long dagger like this around their belt. Although it is 100% functional, it just seems more like a display knife than something you'd carry around, and stands like this are pretty often used for double edged daggers. It also helps that if, in the future, I decide it needs a sheath I can still make one for it!
  10. Hello everyone, I am very excited to show you my latest knife! This one is an Eastern fusion dagger. I took a very Western blade style, the double edged dagger, and used a variety of Eastern techniques and materials to give a unique spin on a traditional blade. Hope you enjoy! First, a little bit of info on the blade:The blade is hand forged out of W-2 and was differentially quenched with clay, leaving a subtle, icy hamon down its length. The habaki and guard are made from nickel-copper mokume gane, hand forged by me, ~36 layers. The habaki has a bias ground pattern and the guard has a very ti
  11. Yes, keep in mind scotch bright is an abrasive - wood is not. Think of it like this: you start sharpening a knife on stones, working your way up in grit. 1000 grit, 4000 grit, and then a 6000 grit hone. After this the blade has a great edge, but you then proceed to finish honing on a 500 grit stone. The sharpness of the edge will now reflect that last 500 grit stone you used, despite having honed on a 6000 grit stone prior to that. That scotch bright pad is no different from a low grit stone, it will abrade and alter your edge. Wood, on the other hand, is not particularly abrasive and will not
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