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VernonCooney

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VernonCooney last won the day on January 11 2017

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  1. Just got a Sodenfors Dannems24 built in 1925. It has 103 stamped in it and the #12. Can anyone give me info on this anvil?
  2. Tried HSS, titanium and cobalt bits and nothing works with 1080 and 01 tool steel. Steel is not hardened. Suggestions??
  3. Thanks for the detailed responses. This all gives me a better understanding of making knives. I will just stick with handmade as a term. I think I am attracted to more rustic processes as in bowmaking but no stone tools.
  4. I really just wanted to know if there was a more defined term for not using machines in the direct production of a knife. In now way am I trying to define knife making as the variety it offers brings out all sorts if skilled people to do any combination of what works for them and is what they like to do. I get it that many people in the public are more fundamentalist thinking but I would hope that knifemakers equally respect each others work and individual skills. In a nutshell to stand up for each other in the public eye. As a traditiobal bowmaker who does not use machines I am trying to match the same with knives to someday sell them together as kind of a matched pair. Thanks and sorry for stirring up bad feelings.
  5. If one makes knives without the use of machines how would one differentiate in referring to this method from handmade with the assistance of machines?
  6. I bought some Bosch cobalt drill bits and tried to drill thru my 1084 partially heat treated knife handle. It clearly did not work. It worked on part of the handle that was not heat treated just fine. Anyone with similar problems?
  7. These are my first 2 knives. 1st is 1080 steel and rosewood handle and 2nd is 1084 and purpleheart.Both are between 8 and 10 inches long. Purple heart knife is quite thin and not suitable outside the kitchen I think. Rosewood one is heavy and durable... I think? I forged them, hand filed and hand sanded them. I think the purpleheart was as hard to sand as the steel. Sanded with 120/220/320/400. Did not buff. What is good for hand buffing?
  8. I have forged about 6 knives and I am not having much luck at bevelling. I think they are too thin or my question is this, is it usual practice to not bevel forged knives that at tapered? Is bevelling more prevelent for stock removal? Thanks
  9. Thanks guys good advice. I have an Atlas Mini forge which heats to about 2000 degrees and a railway track.I hand file and sand.
  10. I have forged a few knives from 1080 and 1084 steel. I was considering 01 tool steel. What would I have to do differently with that steel and would this be advisable? Thanks
  11. I have been forging over 2 days for about 2 hours each day in my garage I noticed that my nose was a dirty (black)when I sneezed. Does anyone where a dust mask or resperater when forging? Is there any health concerns with forging high carbon steel? Thanks
  12. This is the process I have derived for my first knife using 1080 steel. Does this seem reasonable and specifically are the filings positiined in the right place? -Forge 1,500F-1,900F(orange 1,800F; orange yellow 1,900F) -Normalize(nonmagnetic)1,500F-1,600F(full cherry red 1,600F) then air cool -Annealing 1,500F-1,600F then place in sand overnight -File steal down -Austentize until nonmagnetic)1,500F-1,600F (cherry red 1,500F;full cherry red 1,600F) then quench to Martensite in 130F canola oil -Temper -400F for 2 hours for 60-61 HRC -450F for 2 hours for 57-58 HRC -File down, sand & polish
  13. I thought that the thicker the better if forging. Should I have gone with 1/4 inch instead? Pros cons?
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