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About Markku

  • Birthday 07/08/1978

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    Blades, blacksmithing, hunting, cars

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  1. Thanks guys. Making this I learned a lot. Most importantly that there is so much more to learn. Recently because I'm lacking a forge and grinder I've been making other things. Leathercraft, jewellery and woodworking. Even tried tanning marten fur Doing other things that you're used to is a real eye opener. I didn't think too much of my own abilities before, now even less. But this gives more hunger to learn and adapt those things to blade making. Hopefully that makes me a better bladesmith in the future.
  2. Sorry this is not knife related but my forge is useless at the moment and time is limited so I had to figure out what to do at late evenings when kids are finally in bed. I needed a new wallet so thought it would be good practice at leatherwork to make one. What I noticed making this was that I need to buy a few tools. A swivel knife and stitching groover would be nice.
  3. Just a few points from my limited knowledged. Puukko type in first picture is very common. Mostly without fuller for what i have seen. I've had few of those. Maasepän puukkos are older. I have seen those lying around in farm my mother was born. Almost always without the sheath for some reason. I think i have seen one or two bark sheath over there. Don't know if you know this already but maasepän puukko means puukko made by village blacksmith. Like said edc made by blacksmith not bladesmith. Used for pretty much everything you can imagine. As an example i'm a tile setter and conc
  4. That is a very nice blade. Reminds me of knifes my grandpa used for woodworking, eating, skinning hares etc.
  5. Beautiful piece. The handle meets the blade perfectly. Nice job on the pic too. The background is well chosen.
  6. Very nice knife. Clean lines. That patina is awesome.
  7. This is really nice. I think you captured the wolf perfectly. And thanks for the WIP. Got to try this method myself.
  8. This took a little longer to finish. I have a bad habit of starting new blades before finishing what I've been working on. I decided to stain the handle with the same red brown leather stain as the sheath. Sheath is veg tanned leather 2,5 mm thick. Carved raven skull and some knots.
  9. I'm just a beginner myself but i have noticed just what Brian said. Its much easier to weld bigger billets. I've had success in coal forge without using flux. I don't think its necessary using solid fuel.
  10. This is something I've been working on lately. It's giving me a headache cause this is very challenging for my skills. Sorry about the picture quality. I am not good at taking photos. Blade uhb20c brass guard spacer and pommel made out of some unknown iron birch bark spacers between iron and wood curly birch handle. It's hard to take pics when you're forging so none of them sorry. First is after some sanding and filing the guard and front spacer. Second's roughing out the handle, blade is rust blued. Picture 3 is the handle roughed out and desinging
  11. Thank you I did some more grinding and the result was just like you said. Looks more like H's. But learned a lot from this. Billet was way too small to start with. Maybe twice the size would be better. This was my first real shot at pattern welded blade. I was suprised how "easy" it was to weld proper steels together. And that the welds did hold as long as the temperature didn't get low. Some simple pattern would have been smart to start with. Great day even at some point I swore never to try this again. Got to try this again next weekend with a bigger billet or two twisted bar
  12. Hi everyone I finally got the courage to try a star pattern welded blade today. Steels are UHB20C/15N20. Start billet was 6 layers, 20x20mm, 50mm long. I think I got the welds to stick. Folded it once and draw into maybe some 15mm square, just over 100mm long. Then the twisting part what scared me the most. Suprisingly it didn't tear the welds. The billet is rather small and I didn't want to ruin the pattern with too much forging so I decided to make a razor blade out of it. I forged the tang and widened it a little. Here's a picture of the blade after very rough
  13. Thanks for the answers. The edge is entirely file steel. Tip of the blade is quite thin so I think I just cooled the tip like you said Jeroen. Its winter and my forge is outside. I should've kept it in the forge longer. Saw blade I used is from a diamond blade used for cutting concrete. Asked about it over here and it seems to be no good for cutting edge material. I welded file steel between strips of the saw blade when trying to learn how make sanmai blades.
  14. Hi, Tried for the first time to forge sanmai blade out of a old file and a circular saw blade core had lying around. The blade is much smaller than I planned due to problems in welding. Now I know better how important it is to clean the steel properly before trying to weld it. Anyways with this blade I had some really hard time in HT. First attempt went ok but the tip was not as hard as the rest of the blade as tested to glass. Quench was in oil. Then I tried it again in water. Even worse. These were done in my new gas forge which is the devils invention It heats the steel much too
  15. Thank you. That's what I thought too. I'll ht it and see what it looks like. Propably it's a waste of time. It's 2mm (0.08") thick. That's why I was thinking of using it in welding. And actually I just tried welding it with some angle iron I had around. It did weld without flux and got contrast just by etching with citric acid. That was my second welding attempt so I really can't tell was it good or not.
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