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Jon Cook

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About Jon Cook

  • Birthday 08/17/1984

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  • Location
    Carlisle, Arkansas

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  1. So, paperweight. Good thing it was only two dollars.
  2. Dude, I've hiked up at Lost Valley many times. It's gorgeous out there. Oh, yeah, don't buy anything in Eureka. Maybe some fudge, but that's about it. Looking for interesting art and pretending you have enough money to buy it is where it's at. For the motorcycle thing, take the 412 down to Osage in something with good suspension and hang a left past the Clayworks Oh, and if you see a purple fox body on a bronco frame, please, please, take a picture?
  3. 4% of people affected. . . That's one heck of a gamble. If it work hardens anything like copper, it's probably a no with my equipment, I gather. Positive pressure air system, maybe?
  4. Wow, small world. I spent a big chunk of my life in Berryville. If you get the chance, pop on over to Eureka Springs and take a walk downtown.
  5. I picked up this little guy for $2 at the junk shop today. I was thinking I'd just scored a half pound of copper big enough to easily work into some blade furniture. A quick search tells me it's actually berrylium copper, which is cool, but I don't know if I can use it without getting cancer. What say you all? Will it forge, or should I let it go?
  6. Are you planning on peening the pins? I started with 1/8" brass on my last one, and peened them before cutting flush with the scales. They came out looking closer to 1/4". Could be a way to save weight? If you do end up swiss cheesing, I'd suggest cutting your pin holes first. Alignment on the others shouldn't have to be perfect. A drill press with a depth stop is great for doing the same on scales. I'm not quite a giant, but I feel your pain. It does add some extra challenges. And thank you.
  7. Looks like a solid design, overall. The handle might be a bit long, unless you're approaching giant proportions. So far, I'm shooting for about 1/2" longer than the width of my palm at most. I'm sure there are different guidelines for different use cases, but that seems a good generic size to me. You could round the butt at the spine to save a little weight, too. That, swiss cheese the tang, and let it be what it is. You've got a lot on your plate right now to get too worried about balance. Note how it feels in use, cogitate on possible changes, and push on to the next one. I'm building #3 right now, so bear that in mind. Reference shots are one of my biggest assets right now, especially not having much access to live models I can handle. Research, draw, redraw, build, test, repeat is the method. I should probably add a notebook detailing what I did to the mix, but I'm not that organized. Best of luck, and here's looking forward to seeing this one all finished.
  8. You've got me looking up papers on carbon migration in stainless to carbon steel welds. Then to figure out how to deal with the chromium oxides. . . I figure I can have a proof of concept in 5-10 years
  9. http://www.knifenetwork.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17740 There are some unorthodox ideas here. Might help you find the shape of the idea. I don't know that it was a good idea, but I used acid free paper soaked in epoxy as a liner in my last build. So I suppose it could just be paper.
  10. Current reference drawing with dimensions. My apologies to anyone who doesn't speak metric. I'm trying to improve my fluency, and millimeters seem simpler at this scale.
  11. @Gabriel James the teeth sounds like a great idea. Kind of like a zipper. Weight distribution is definitely a secondary consideration. I know everything I've built/am building so far is handle heavy by necessity. So, in the interest of not constantly dropping one and stabbing myself/the floor, I feel like I should make a nod in that direction. After I'm a few dozen in, I'll start working on balancing on the head of a pin. @C Craft good info in that thread. I like the idea of treating the prongs of the frame like a tenon, and that glue up jig is now on my to build list.
  12. I guess dimensions would be handy. I'mma go find my ruler and rectify that particular situation.
  13. The design as it stands now. Full flat grind, brass mekugi, hidden copper pins for the frame if I can manage, probably birch scales with ipe bolster since I quite liked that combo. I try to stick with what I've drawn as much as possible, but there is some improv. Mostly due to the fact that I don't draw very well, so things tend to look a bit different in 3D.
  14. @Joshua States I do have a to-scale reference drawing off camera. I traced a copy, glued it to the blank, and scribed around it in case the paper failed. I gather that if I try to do everything before the blade is done, I'll end up chasing good fit, and probably duplicating a lot of effort. On the tang width, I think I answered my own question trying to figure out how to phrase it. I'm not leaving enough room for pins, am I? Say my frame pins were 1/16", I'd want a minimum of 3/16" clearance at the ricasso? Assuming my fit at the guard is clean, does the frame need to follow the tang closely at the butt end, or can I get away with void space to save weight? My plan is to use a permanent mekugi with epoxy to fasten the handle.
  15. $75+ for a carbide faced guide. . . Angle iron it is! I'm doing everything past "get it close to the scribe marks" by hand, so it's only somewhat crazy.