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MacCrea

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MacCrea last won the day on September 5

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About MacCrea

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    http://cmacsflints.blogspot.com

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    Andover, NY
  • Interests
    Flintlock rifles & knives

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  1. Still much work to be done but I'm slowly gaining.tire hammer1.htm
  2. My brother just sent me this link- http://www.survivorlibrary.com/?page_id=1014 Tons of information on here! Check out the smithing section and pdf's
  3. Thanks! Always liked the crackled look of giraffe bone. Never had any to work with, but found some at Jantz to use on that one. Hard and dense stuff really despite the crackled look and the quick growth rate. Nice blades you've got there! I've seen a lot of Winkler blades, most years ago. Any recent ones where smaller fixed blades or folders.
  4. Awesome thread! Going to have to build one! Here at Harbor Freight, the top 2 ton air hydraulic jack salesman almost 10 years in a row goes to Thunder! Thanks Thunder!
  5. In the 18th century longhunters where market hunters that would supply meat and hides to towns, cities , and forts. Many where known to spend time in Indian territory and would carry knives such as this. Unlikely a cable blade though.
  6. This is the 3rd cable knife from the same 1 1/4 x 12" piece of cable. It measures 16 3/4" overall with a 12 1/4" blade, and 1/8" at the thickest portion of the spine. The guard, pommel, and scabbard band where formed from mild steel. The belt clip 1095, and the pins are a copper tube with a solid brass center. Leather is an 8 ounce vegetable tan.
  7. Some good information here... http://www.unionrope.com/Resource_/TechnicalReference/2536/WireCoHandbook_Form 1001M-low res.pdf
  8. More info. on the fastenal stuff.... https://www.fastenal.com/content/product_specifications/WR.IWRC.IPS.EQR.pdf
  9. I found mine through a guy on facebook, but its the same as this I believe... https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/45546?r=~|categoryl1:"601922 Lifting and Rigging"|~ ~|categoryl2:"601946 Cable and Accessories"|~ ~|categoryl3:"601947 Cable 9and Wire Rope"|~ ~|sattr04:^Steel$|~ ~|sattr01:^1-1/4"$|~ 1 1/4" is plenty large. For most knives you could get away with less. Keep away from rusted stuff unless you have some kind of chemical that might remove it.
  10. These are the other two from the same billet for those that may have missed the prior posts.
  11. I was told to avoid rusty cable- mine was rust free. I was also told the oils will all cook out of it. Well, to avoid filling my fresh coal fire with oil and all. I heated the cable with a torch just to clean it up. Then went to the forge, heated, untwisted, and fluxed. Back to the forge and back to the vice tightened twist back up beyond where it was originally. More heating, FLUXING, and did 3 full length weld passes (probably only 4" at a time due to coal forging). Once I had a billet I cleaned it all up and etched it to see what I had or didn't have. All was well so I started hammering the blades out.
  12. Thanks! I am pretty new to forge welding. I've done a few low layer blades and as far as the welding goes I thought the cable was easier, and I had fewer weld voids with the cable. I was expecting more voids which is why I chose to weld up the whole piece in one shot instead of cutting it and doing smaller pieces. I don't have a power hammer up and running yet, and this was all done with a coal forge. This was a lot of hammering but from one 1 1/4" x 12" cable I made two 9"+ full tang knives and one 12" blade with a through tang. It hardened up well and threw wicked sparks on the sander. To me it's hard to beat a good 1084 or 1095 blade, but so far I'm impressed with the cable.
  13. This blade was forged from the same 1 1/4" x 12" cable as the last 2 knives posted. It measures 9 3/8" overall, and has a 5 1/4" blade. The handle slabs are giraffe bone with combination brass/copper pins. The sheath is my usual 8 oz veg. tanned cowhide.