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Everything posted by MacCrea

  1. Thanks for the kind words all! nsantella the "studs" are available at many leather supply stores, and are hammered together like a rivet. https://www.tandyleather.com/en/product/sam-browne-buttons-washers
  2. Thanks all! My most time consuming knife and sheath yet, but it sold in the matter of 8 hours. So I'm happy. I was hoping to pet it for a while but no luck there.
  3. I made 2 billets - 16 layers 15n20 and 1095 forged out octagonal. Twisted one clockwise and the other counterclockwise. Forge welded those two together after a bunch of grinding, and forged the blade from that. After final grinding, engraving, etc. The blade went back to the coal forge for normalizing and hardening, then onto the oven for tempering. More cleanup and etching then it was time to make up the steel guard, bolster, pommel, and the African blackwood handle. Hours and hours later the veg tanned sheath. Blade length is 8" and overall length 13".videoplayback-dagger.mp4
  4. I've made a 3 other knives from the cable alone and seems to hold a good edge. It is EIPS cable(if I remember correctly-lost the link I had saved on it). One of my last knives was a 1095 and wrought iron San Mai.
  5. Forged out a 6" x 1 1/4" cable to approximately 20" x 1" x 1/8". Debating 2 knives just cable, or possibly 3 san maybe- cable/ 1095/ cable. Thoughts?
  6. Both really beautiful knives! I really like the antler handled one. Nice work!!!
  7. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007EBXCTY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  8. Thanks guys! Yes it has a very nice balance. The pewter is cast in place. I carve the wood down so the pewter will act as a band to secure it, wrap area with a piece of index card and masking tape, and pour the pewter. It cools fast and will not burn the paper or the wood. Below is a picture of a pewter muzzlecap on a muzzleloader I built a while back.
  9. *6" cutting edge, 1/16" thick 1095 steel *11" overall length *Curly maple, pewter bolster & pommel, steel pins
  10. This knife has a 4 3/4" cutting edge and is 8 3/4" in overall length. The handle is curly maple from the firewood pile.
  11. Yes, UHMW polyethylene. The spring has steel bushings on each end and a rubber hose surrounding it. You can buy these plans for $35 (if I remember correctly) from Clay Spencer--- email- clay@tirehammer.com Plans do have a copyright. I believe he will send you a printed set of plans or pdf file once the payment has been made. I opted for the pdf file. He also has tire hammer workshops. Raymond Head (on youtube) has the rights for making parts as well as completed hammers. I did buy a good number of parts off him. Both Clay and Raymond were great people to deal with and happy to answer any questions that I had.
  12. Sorry about the video. I cannot get one uploaded. The guide tube has a high strength molecular plastic that the hammer runs against. I followed Clay Spencer's plans.
  13. Sorry. Only video I have at the moment...Technical troubles with my internet and my knowledge of video uploads.
  14. https://www.facebook.com/colin.maccrea/videos/1379598578811367/
  15. Tried sharing a video drawing out 1" square stock. My internet service is not good. I will try again later or at least get some photos up. Works great!
  16. Thanks all! Just followed what I've seen on this post. Squished 1" square steel down to 1/4" with drawing dies 5x in one heat. Pretty simple build. Found the foot pedal on Amazon for a little over $20.
  17. Finally got around to building mine. Works great! Thanks again Thunder for the inspiration!
  18. Thanks for the kind words all!
  19. 5 from 2017 and 5 recent builds. Seems like all I've been making since Thanksgiving is kitchen knives. More to follow- computer issues.
  20. Thanks! Yeah, not too many plug bayonets being made. I just made two..This one with a curly maple handle and another with stacked leather. Those into the blackpowder shooting sports are more interested in throwing them. Which is a concern with handle and tang construction
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