Jump to content

Mason Simonet

Members
  • Posts

    245
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    3

Everything posted by Mason Simonet

  1. I figured what forum y’all were talking about. and sure enough, I found the thread. the whole thread I was gritting my teeth with anger. now I am all about safety, but they are truly safety nazis. i use a brut de forge Knife in the field for preparing raw meat, you wanna know what I clean it with? Some water and a pad of palmetto fluff. I’ve never had a problem with it. I’m not gonna take soap with me in the field! i took a screenshot of something ironic in that thread. After you politely asked for people to stop condemning you about a truly personal opinion, Steve came back and said this and then after you said this small very true comment, guess what? Glenn decided It’s Time to shut down the thread!!! That’s why I love this forum, even when there is a need to speak up about something potentially dangerous (for the record this Knife is not dangerous) we do it in a very polite way. Mason
  2. The 1x30 May be better, but I would not call it a good investment. The 2x42 that Alan mentioned would be far better, but unfortunately I can’t find it on eBay anymore ill search around a bit more and try to get you a link to one.
  3. Thanks guys. Yeah Joël they are great gifts, I wish I would get invited to a wedding that handed out knives!
  4. A friend of mine got me to make 3 hunting knives for groomsmen gifts at his sons wedding. Im pretty happy with how they turned out, it was my first time Making close to identical knives. All three are 1084 steel with bocote handles. Thanks for looking. Mason
  5. You can use that stuff on leather too, as a black dye replacement. It gives it a nice even finish That won’t come off on your handles like dye does. If it’s not potent enough it will just turn the leather grey. edit: just remember it will smell like vinegar!
  6. Alright, I think I lost ya. What do you mean by the top wheel? Why would it not go up?
  7. The stock platen has round corners and is too wide. The extra steel will give you sharp corners and will be the same width as the belt. No need for a welder, JB weld is just a type of epoxy.
  8. Vern is correct, just leave the guards off. Another thing for these that you might want to do is upgrade the platen. the stock platen does not give you the ability to make nice plunge cuts. all I did to mine was JB weld a piece of 2” wide hardened 1080 steel to the existing platen, it’s not the best steel for this but it’s what I had.
  9. Cool. That’s the exact size of my new shop, I’m pretty happy with it.
  10. Not sure if this helps, but I have similar anvils. So here’s my set up It started out as just 2 common scrap wood stands, each made specially for the type of anvil. Both were too light and by the time I was done forging they would have moved a foot or two! So I decided to attach them together. Works great now, no movement at all. Mason
  11. This is a great video comparing different leather finishes https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=zyTg_hfpNUM I use acrylic resolene, it gives it a nice shine and it’s pretty good with waterproofing.
  12. I’m really digging this knife, Love the pattern.
  13. Aldo has 1080 square bars http://newjerseysteelbaron.com/shop/1080-square-bar-2/
  14. This is this is about the best you can get for $150 https://m.ebay.com/ the only thing you really need to do to it is upgrade the platen, and then it’s suitable for grinding bevels. btw the knife is looking good.
  15. Here’s a better picture. thanks to everyone for the kind words. Mason
  16. I just finished up sharpening it. I’m using king water stones. I have the 220–800 stone and the 1000–6000 stone. I start by sharpening the first side with 220 until there is a burr on the other side. then I sharpen the other side until not just a burr forms but until it looks even with the first side. Now I move up to 800, I sharpen each side until a burr forms. then I repeat with 2000. now I repeat with 6000. After I have a burr form on each side, I finish it by passing it over the stone rotating once on each side. I do this about 10 times per side. now it has a shaving sharp edge, I would show some proof but I’m running out of hair on my legs I’ll post some better pics maybe tomorrow if it’s not raining. thanks for looking!
  17. Thanks again Wes. Ill still be posting up some pics of the sharpening process. So, stay tuned!
  18. Alright, I finally finished this sheath. im going to start by burnishing the edge. I hade 2 burnishers so I took one and cut down the end to fit in my drill, it actually works great. Way faster than doing it by hand. I’m using the same method as before. Using water first and then gum trag. after the gum trag I go over it by hand with the burnisher. This gives it a smoother finish. Now I rub some beeswax on the edge, and then go over it again with the handheld burnisher. This waterproofs the edge. Then I will buff out the edge with a cloth, to remove any excess wax. And here’s how it looks. now I can put the finish on the sheath, but first I buff off any excess dye. I’m using acrylic resolene for the finish, It gives great waterproofing and a nice shine. I’ll put as many coats as needed until I achieve the desired shine. then I’ll put a coat on the belt loop and the inside of the sheath with a wool dauber. and here it is all finished. Now all I have to do is sharpen the blade. thanks for looking!
  19. A guy taught me how to saddle stitch a long time ago, and since then I’ve forgotten. Actually Just the other day I was thinking about looking it up to learn how again. thanks for the advice Wes.
  20. It’s time for fitting. it’s not fully dry yet, but it won’t hurt anything. I wanted to get this done tonight so I could finish it tomorrow. first I wrap the knife in plastic wrap, I’m using one of those roles you use for moving. Then I run the sheath under the sink, once on the front side once on the back side. You don’t want it too wet or it won’t hold it’s shape. and then I hang it up to dry, now it will be ready to finish tomorrow.
  21. I got the larger sheath back where we left off. I went with a little bit different shape on this one. after being glued up, I take it to the belt sander and level the edge out. Sorry I forgot to take pics, I thought I posted pics of that with the last sheath, but I guess not then I will start grooving for the stitching, I’ll go over the same groove 3 to 4 times to make sure it’s deep enough. I like to put double stitching just at the top. that’s where the most pressure will be, especially on the first fitting. Now I will mark the holes with this tool (whatever it’s called) hole marker? after marking the hole I will poke them with an awl, this helps the drill bit find its spot. then I can start drilling the holes out with a rotary tool. after drilling, I clean up the back side with a damp cloth. Then I’ll groove the back side, I just free hand it between the holes. Now I can start stitching it up. I use the same stitching method as I used on the belt loop. at the end, I’ll pull one thread back 2 holes and the other thread back 3 holes, So that the burned threads will be on the back side. then I will bevel the edges. Now it’s time to be dyed, I use dye prep just like before, but this time I use it on the rough side of the leather as well. after being dip dyed, I’ll hang it up to dry. it may be ready for fitting tonight. thanks for looking!
×
×
  • Create New...