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Mason Simonet

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Everything posted by Mason Simonet

  1. Burnsville, right outside of Asheville. We will be in the mountains so it is cooler than most of NC. At least I will actually have a winter!
  2. I wouldn’t say that... if it’s got good rebound and works as it should, then it’s a good anvil! You don’t really need the brand to know if it’s good or not.
  3. 1080 steel, bocote handle, egg aged copper fittings. this will be my last knife for awhile due to us moving out of Florida up to North Carolina, Finally getting out of the heat!
  4. That’s pretty slick! Thank you for Your vids they have helped me a ton, I had no idea you were on this forum.
  5. I use a 42 oz estwing blacksmith hammer for everything (no I dident buy it just cause it said blacksmith) I bought it because I love estwing... yes it does have a fiberglass handle, but it has been great. with the sizes you already have, I would go with something a bit heavier.
  6. I have a 2x42 craftsman. All I did was jb weld a hardened peace of 2” 1080 steel on top of the old platen... it’s likely the platen on yours is mild steel, so you would need to eventually upgrade it to a hardenable steel anyway. If you want to keep it with the original platen, then it really depends on how rounded the edges are. slightly round edges will give you a nice rounded plunge line, although I prefer square edges then use a flex belt to round the plunges.
  7. I’m liking the lines of it, i wouldent ad a guard as it would break the lines like Joel said. It looks like a mini kukri, which kukris do not have guards either and are used for a lot more forceful tasks. they do however have the contours in the handle. i would not worry about slipping unless you plan on stabbing something or someone
  8. I usually don’t like mirror finishes, but that one is perfect! I never would of thought it would fit a spearhead that well.
  9. I use an old rim, you can find instructions online pretty easy. It’s basically the same as a brake drum forge.
  10. That’s exactly what I’m using right now, seems like it works well. they also have the charcoal replacement filters for more chemical fumes.
  11. Ok, I will definitely bid on it. Thanks for the response!
  12. I’ve been thinking of getting a more accurate way to test the HRC of my blades. At first I was gonna get one of those Japanese file kits... but then I found this on eBay https://m.ebay.com/itm/PTC-INSTRUMENTS-PORTABLE-STEEL-HARDNESS-TESTER-MODEL-316/142542828570?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908131621%26meid%3Dafe67070aba04cd784066cb3744878eb%26pid%3D100678%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D5%26sd%3D142542828570&_trksid=p2481888.c100678.m3607&_trkparms=pageci%3A5024fc9d-b813-11e7-b7f5-74dbd18027a4%7Cparentrq%3A4a2b54d515f0a9c56ba16ce1fffbd63e%7Ciid%3A1 i thin
  13. That looks pretty good! You did an awesome job on the bevel for your first blade. One thing I would do is wire brush the handle, it will give it a nice smooth matte finish.
  14. I’ve never worked with wrenches, but if it were me I would heat treat it like any simple steel... normalize by heating to non magnetic, let it cool to black color, repeat 3 Times. On the third time let it cool to room temp. Next heat the blade just over non magnetic and quench in veggie/canola oil. Next temper the blade in your oven two 1 hour cycles at 375-400 Fahrenheit. It’s probably not made of a great steel but why not give it a shot? It will be good practice for when you buy known steel. (Which will most likely to be a simple steel) it really doesent matter since it’s your firs
  15. Ohh ok, never had that happen to me. Thanks for all the info guys!
  16. It’s all good, all I need is the key word Could I have some more info on (blistering) if you mean right after heat treat, I have all kinds of scale buildup and decarb, but how do I identify blistering?
  17. Thank you. this is exactly the type of test I was looking for!
  18. Hey guys. I am always worried about one of my blades failing in a costumers hands, particularly snapping. of course I know the old file test, but I was wondering if there is any way to test if a blade was quenched to hot and is brittle. I know if the edge chips while sharpening that’s a clear sign so if the file skates and the edge doesent chip, then I’m in the right area in HRC, right? Thanks for looking!
  19. This is the guy I get my leather from https://m.ebay.com/itm/SLC-Natural-Veg-Tan-Cowhide-Tooling-Leather-Pre-Cut-Project-Piece-/112173155608?skus=Pre-Cut Size:12"x24"|Leather Weight:8/9oz&varId=412335028615 it’s great for the price and is very consistent in size. I would always go with 8/9 oz for fold over sheaths, and for layered sheaths I would try to get it the same width as the blade. You want it tight!
  20. I never got an even color until like last week, I cleaned the blade with alcohol, and got a oven thermometer (Seemed my oven is about 25 degrees higher) the blade came out a beautiful even straw color.
  21. lose the large gap like you said but then file the whole ricasso down to about the depth of your choil, with a smooth transition into the cutting edge. like this 2 more small things that catch my eye, the lanyard hole is a little to far up... and the cutting edge could start a little bit lower. other than that it's a very clean knife. Well done!
  22. Ahh, ok. I work with 1080 but thought 1095 was the same process.
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