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Chris C-S

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Everything posted by Chris C-S

  1. Chris C-S

    No. 4.

    Hi all, please see images of my 4th knife which is also a commission (swap for hammer) from a UK YouTube blacksmith. 1075HC 3.4mm thick 3"UK EDC legal cutting edge. West Australian Desert Snakewood/Ironwood. Please feel free to comment.
  2. Except it's not for my father, it's for my 8 year old son. But I guess it could work either way. Perhaps a 3 generation set.
  3. @Doug Crawford you know, that would make a pretty cool sword. No where near historical (to my knowledge) but wicked nonetheless.
  4. OK, i swore i commented on this one, but obviously not. Perhaps because i thought words wouldn't do it justice. Very nice looking piece. I love that subtle harpoon point, not too over the top and the symmetry with the pins.
  5. "OMG Beckky, Look at that Butt!" - Sorry from a song, hope you get the humour. That pommel is grouse, (aussie slang, look that up also). Well done and great work.
  6. Hi all, thanks for your input and suggestions/knowledge. Next time I'll get onto the slack belt and give it a go. Didn't have too much burning, more gumming of belts. Thanks again all.
  7. Hi all, So after completing my latest knives, i did most of the wood shaping by hand with rasps and sandpaper however I am chasing some advice on using my grinder for this task. Speed and type of belts in particular. I did a small project with my son on the weekend and used a 36gritceramic belt which shredded the wood (pine) but now the belt is burnt in appearance and looks useless. Hence the nature of this question. Any suggestions/help will be useful, thanks in advance.
  8. Those are very nice pieces. I also love the sheaths that accompany them. Leather is something i am hoping to get 'right' with my knives. Thanks for sharing.
  9. Lovely forging. Well done, and thanks for sharing.
  10. Brilliant looking knife. Well done. By hand press or power hammer?
  11. @Garry Keownjust watched a video of that technique, lol. I'll see how I get on. Thanks for the reply as always.
  12. Hey Garry, was not going to put a welt as no exposed knife edge. Was going more for a pocket/holster friction type fit. Have seen multiple YouTube's where they make two pieces the same size stitch and the wet, open and insert (seriously where's that coming from) followed by wet moulding. My question is whether or not 10mm high is too much to ask this leather to stretch, therefore should I make the top piece larger/mould first (stapling to Block of wood) and then fit the back piece. Hope that makes sense?
  13. No, it's copper connector but short on one side so the groove was already there. I just enhanced it.
  14. Beautiful. So lovely and thanks for sharing.
  15. Kudos, and welcome. Beautiful piece.
  16. 7oz leather. 2.5mm @DanM also the clasp knife is approx 10mm thick.
  17. Hi all, general question. I'm making a sheath for a clasp knife, practice before the Two sheaths for father son project. And I am making a two part sheath, see image. Wondering how much this will stretch or do I need to compensate and make top part larger?
  18. Thanks @Zebulon Camper I think that's easy enough to understand metric or not. Lol. I'll keep that in mind. Seems the common theme is the handle thickness.
  19. Thanks Karim. There are flaws, ones I which may not show on photo but I know are there. Clean is what I was going for. Thanks for the complement. Onto some skirts for these ladies now.
  20. @Alex Middleton well in that case the rings were totally deliberate lol... Thanks for commenting dude.
  21. Hey Dan, they are not bad to deal with however if your after 1075, try tharwa valley forge. I've found artisan supplies always out of stock, so ring to confirm. P.s. I'm in aus.
  22. Bugger. Try again huh.?! Continuing to watch with interest.
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