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Joe kemp

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  1. Thanks, all this was indeed very helpful in my endeavors to make my own knives start to finish and I will hopefully be getting some coal here very soon so I will be able to start making some forge welds. And if I can't figure it out I will try to find someone willing to teach my stubborn ass (I don't like to listen and I like to try and figure everything out on my own until I have come to an extreme point of defeat in which I will hang my head in shame and seek help).
  2. to extend on my previous comment i should also mention that the twenty mule team borax is actually a hydrated version of the molecule making it sodium tetraborate decahydrate. my comment on this could be that the water is being freed of the molecule and then under the heated conditions in the forge may be reacting with the sodium tetraborate molecule. I don't know this could have anything to do with this phenomenon but just something to think about.
  3. Now as I have come to find out the color of borax reacting with water in the air is green and yields the two compounds sodium metaborate and boron oxide. While the boiling point of borax is 2867 degrees F it highly unlikely that the borax is boiling but is possible that some of borax is steaming off, as previously stated that it is steaming when removed from the fire, similar to how water might be steaming when heated but not boiling. This vaporized borax is then reacting with water vapor in the air I can assume comes from the air being forced into the forge.
  4. I reference to S. cruse I think what your asking is that the heat from the is causing the wood to burn and produce a different color flame. However this color produced is actually the color of the steel burning. As we all know as you heat steel the hotter it gets the more scale or oxide is produced but once steel reaches it ignition temperature the oxide would no longer stick to the surface of the steel but it would fly off the steel and to the best of my understanding it would carry away the carbon in the steel as well and once it hits the oxygen rich environment outside of the fire which bur
  5. Yes so I reference to Alan I believe the blue tempering we as from cutting the pieces apart and also I do believe that the metal wasn't near hot enough to weld. In reference to JJ I'm actually interested in that notion of the changing color of flame from yellow I think I may have an inquiry into why that changes from my background in chemistry. Now you said that you were told that when the flame turns gold the metal is ready to forge weld. If I apply my knowledge of chemistry we can find out that the flame color of iron (Fe) is actually gold. This flame color would only occur when the iron in
  6. Yes that black stuff flakes right off. It is in no way stuck to the metal or I should say it doesn't appear to be the metal flaking. I do believe it is wood far as you said. I just picked up some hardwood charcoal with no added chemicals from the store today and while working on my machete project I did realize that the metal was getting much much hotter than it was with wood. I am also planning on lining my forge with fire clay mortar to contain more of the heat than the forge does now, is this a good idea and will it work? My goal is to make knives fairly cheap so I am using slot of material
  7. Yes I am planning on picking up a bag of charcoal to burn in my forge for the time being as finding a supplier for coal in my area is rather difficult. The nearest supplier is a 30 minute drive from where I am so it's not easy to just make that drive for coal. But sometime soon hopefully I will be able to go there and pick up a big bag of that.
  8. I would imagine then that it is the outer layers are losing to much heat too quick then and not maintaining a forge welding temperature?
  9. I do know that it is not stainless steel. But heat may be an issue. I have been burning would but I am trying to get some coal instead as it will burn hotter. Trouble is finding a supplier in my area.
  10. Those pieces were originally thicker. About one inch square and were pressed as tight as I could get them with my c clamps. I then proceeded to tack weld each corner once on the middle of each end and three more tacks on the longer edges. After I finished pounding it out I cut off the edges with an angle grinder I ground down the edges to see if the welds stuck but I saw lines on all of the edges. At that point I new none of the welds set. I then pulled the pieces apart and those pieces pictured are the inside edges of the pieces. Before clamping and tacking all pieces were ground clean and fl
  11. Here's what ive got as a result. These are just some pieces I have cut out of the overall piece.
  12. I was using borax and I had four pieces stacked.
  13. Hello, so I'm trying to forge weld some thinner pieces of steel that I have, I do know after spark testing that these pieces have a decent carbon content. I managed to get the metal up to a light orange color while fluxxed. I proceeded to hammer the pieces together at this temp but I could not get the pieces to stick. They were properly cleaned with a grinder before tack welded together. I will add some pictures of the pieces soon. But as for now does anyone have any suggestions or ideas as to why this is not working for me. Also should be noted that I am using a forced air wood forge.
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