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Everything posted by Nflanders

  1. thats true, but the ability to order the box and slide it into a propane tank that is prepped would make it a lot easier to get started. I know that the hardest part for me was getting all of the refractory products for the forge... I know that you can order certain products through Wayne or other sites, but it would be nice to have a semi "turnkey" forge... and I will say that these guys do a great job with their castings. This is just an idea at this point, I have no idea what the price point would be or if it is even feasible. Also shipping would not be the issue since this is what they make and ship for a living.
  2. Alan, Does it matter if I attach the flare from inside of the forge? the guy that I ordered the burners from specified that is how he does it ( the flares and burner holders are both 1.5" )
  3. Good afternoon everyone, the store that I purchase my refractory from does custom casting of refractories, and after talking to one of the employees there came up with the idea of pre-cast forge liners. Is this the king of thing that people would be interested in? (the more interest, the cheaper it could be since they have to build a mold for the castings) I figure that the kit could include- 1- cast 3000 degree refractory cement cylinder (with a 2"hole centered for the burner) wrapped in 1" kaowool, and sized to slide into a propane cylinder forge 2- 2" thick piece of kaowool sized to go inside the bottom/ back of the forge 3- small container of IR reflective to coat inside of forge I am waiting on a quote for the cost per package, but I feel like this would be a nice simple setup for beginners, and god knows it isn't easy to find refractory products locally...
  4. Thanks, I was going for a semi- Bowie inspired look...
  5. That's the plan, I'll have to check out the connectors when they show up Friday, and work from there, I'd like to set up a shut-off so that I can run a single burner.
  6. Thanks Josh, Wayne, I've read it a few times, but I am more of a visual learner, so pictures tend to help me more.
  7. thanks Doug, I'm hoping that I can get the forge built, and lined this weekend, cure over the week, and put the IR coating on towards the end of next week, and be ready for use for the weekend.
  8. I had a handful of rusty old wrenches that I had sitting around the bottom of a toolbox I got at a yard sale last year... This was one of the more educational experiences for me, I forged it a bit too thin, so I cannot remove enough material to give a nice clean grind without compromising the integrity of the blade. Hot cut one side of the wrench off and forged it close to shape... I was able to stretch the finger hole to size by heating it and tapping it onto the back of a ball peen hammer... lining out the blade shape scale cleaned off, and deciding on the grind shape... surprisingly comfortable in the hand, just a little straightening to do, then quench this weekend... Hopefully it doesn't self destruct
  9. Afternoon everyone, I am starting the assembly of my forge this weekend once my burners show up, I was wondering what the simplest way to apply the Kast- o lite to the inside of the ceramic wool? I would prefer to apply it directly to the wool as opposed to casting a cylinder separately and putting it inside of the wool... Can I just dampen the wool and use my hands (wearing gloves obviously) to apply a few thin layers, and work it up to 3/8-1/2" or so?
  10. If you are intersted in trying inlay I would take a look at one kind of chisel to use, I used some made from exacto knives that worked great on mahogany, then self destructed when I tested them on purple heart wood... I know that some people shape hacksaw blades as well, but there are a bunch of options. Not very pretty, but if you look around you can get some flat copper wire to practice with since its significantly cheaper than the silver.
  11. his listing ( and after asking him ) he said that he literally uses brake lines to run his propane, he said to buy a 1/4" inverted flare line from an auto parts store. Would it make sense to get 1/4" copper line, and flare it/ solder it instead?
  12. Good afternoon, this may sound like a stupid question, but does anyone use brake lines to run propane for their forges? I found a set of burners for sale on ebay, but he says to use brake lines to run the propane...
  13. if it doesnt matter that it is a little oversized I may just do the 2" the burners will take a week or so to get here, and I wanted to get the forge construction started this weekend.
  14. When I go to mount the double burner (the seller says that the outer diameter of the burner flares are 1.5") would it be ok to use 2" pipe? or should I use 1.5" and make it as tight as possible?
  15. fortunately there is a refractory store not too far away that sells their leftovers/ small pieces, so I have enough Inswool and then some... I'm going to see if they can get me some Kast o lite tomorrow, and see if they have an alternative to ITC... if not I will most likely order some plistix or metrikote from you. As far as the volume the tank is a bit bigger than a propane tank, so I figure that I would need at least 20-25 lbs depending on the cost of shipping its probable about the same price for 25-30 lbs shipped or 55 bought locally.
  16. Good evening everyone, if anyone in the MA or RI area is looking for refractory products I will most likely be going up to Woburn to purchase some Kast o lite, and some IR coating, if there is anyone that wants to go in on a bag or 2 of either I should be travelling up there week after next. If anyone in Northern, MA or southern NH is looking for refractory check out Cutter northern refractory, they have a pretty good selection of products.
  17. Depending on the volume needed and shipping costs I will most likely order the kast o lite from wayne's site (along with whatever IR coating I decide on) worse comes to worst I have a decent refractory supply store that I pass every few weeks for work.
  18. Wayne, how much Kast-o-lite, and plistix or metrikote would you recommend? (around 450 square inches of surface area on the inside of the wool) minus whatever thickness the kast o lite takes from the diameter of the inside for the IR coating.
  19. Wayne, Is the metrikote ok to apply over the refractory? I've sir that I was reading said to only apply over the ceramic wool, not on bricks or refractory.
  20. Good evening everyone, I am getting ready to start a forge build this weekend, the body of the forge will be an 11 gallon compressed air tank ( I only chose this over the 5 gallon because I am hoping to work on some wider pieces that might not fit in the narrower body after insulating) My current plan is -a rectangular door in the rear with angle iron top and bottom so that I can slide a brick in to block the hole. -larger rectangular door on the front, also with angle iron so that I can close most of it off to allow higher temps. -I currently have 2" ceramic wool, 10 x 1/2 cut bricks, and hercules brand furnace cement (home depot's only refractory cement, but it is listed as a "3000 degree cement") The plan is to start with the wool, paint 2-3 thin (and thinned) coats of the cement, followed by a couple of slightly thicker coats (hoping for 1/2-3/4 inch?), and use a row of 1/2 bricks to line the bottom. Total should be around 540-600 cubic inches. I have looked at both of these double burner setups ( both from ebay ) as well as a ribbon burner ( I decided against the ribbon so that I am not tied to an outlet for the blower ) Any recommendations, suggestions, things that I am doing completely wrong etc... suggestions are appreciated. My other concern is, how necessary is an IR reflective coating? (plistex, metrikote, ITC100) Can it be added later?
  21. So this is pretty much the final write up for the knife, I feel that I have learned a lot from building this knife ( whether through luck, or some roll of fate the heat treat seems to have worked out, knife took a 3 foot fall off the bench onto concrete tip first, and no chipping or bending) Got this guy for $30, hoping it holds up for awhile, plenty of torque for what I need for the time being. Down to 800 grit, and a couple of coats of Tung oil ( I believe the handle is mahogany, but not 100% ) That wire snagging issue that was mentioned ( inlaid the wire before shaping/ sanding ) Had to cut and replace a 3/32 x 1/16 piece. Homemade kydex press ( definitely need a softer foam ) polished up and sharp, this is about the point that I decided I was finished... after 5 tries, and finding out my rivets were too short the sheath is semi done, just waiting on the clips, and chicago screws...
  22. Roughing up the inside of the grips for epoxy Making sure that the pins line up, and cutting to length... All epoxied and peened and clamped, now for the waiting game, then finally shaping the handles, polishing, and putting an edge on it...
  23. not yet, I have some shaping to do on the handles, and some fine tuning in the jaw shape.
  24. I'm sure I won't, picking up my first anvil Monday, and possibly a vise, my brother's propane forge shows up next week. Can't wait to start being able to do it more than one day a week!
  25. Started making my first pair of tongs as my forge starts to come together. Took some 1/2" round stock from HD, and just winged it... Also forged a punch to go with them to make the holes for the pins... Coming together pretty well, looking forward to finishing them up next week...
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