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Jonas Liebel

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About Jonas Liebel

  • Birthday 10/30/1997

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Germany
  • Interests
    sharp things

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1,295 profile views
  1. Jonas Liebel

    Three unique Kiridashis

    Hi there,I'm offering three beautiful unique kiridashis, each has it's own distinctive style. They are made from 4.5mm (0.178'') 1095 steel, all hair popping sharp.All prices already contain international shipping. First up we have a kiridashi with red tsuka ito and a delicate swedge. Due to my crappy photo setup I couldn't capture the full beauty and activity of the hamon...It is yours for $120 Next up we have the "Raven's claw", with carved ebony scales. Yours for $180 Last comes the "Harpune", a little tactical kiridashi with G10 scales, mosaic pins and a hardened glass-breaking tip at the end. $125 Thanks for looking! I had a lot of fun designing and building these three knives. Greetings from Germany, Jonas Last edited: 1 minute ago
  2. Hi there,I wanted to use my propane tank gas forge for the first time and started to slowly heat it up, but apparently I didn't let the cement dry long enough, resulting in a loud "bang", a huge flame and a hole in my cement walling. First of all, do you think the big flame that shot out of both ends of the forge was caused by the cement coming off or the other way round?Second, how do I fix the holes? Should I just put some new cement into them and hope that everything bonds together nicely? I'm a little bit lost, so any help would be greatly appreciated Jonas
  3. Jonas Liebel

    2018 Project WIP

    Great project! May I ask you how you did the Handle inlay, did you cut it out with a router or by hand? Or do you know any good tutorial for handle inlays by chance?
  4. Jonas Liebel

    Reducing vibration on my belt sander

    It has been like that since the beginning I think.
  5. Heya, My belt sander is making a lot of noise. It causes the entire workbench it sits on to vibrate, which is the main problem i think. Now I have tried rubber mats and foam mats as an underlay, but that didn't help. I propably should insulate the workbench from wall and floor to stop the vibrations from spreading further, but I dont know how So if anyone has a useful tip on what to do in this situation, I am welcoming every bit of advice! I have added a few pictures to give you an idea of the situation. Cheers! Here you can see the workbench's attachement to the wall, should i somehow insulate something / create space to the wall here? The Legs are locked in place like this, maybe i should insulate something there too?
  6. Jonas Liebel

    Some concept drawings

    Thanks guys! Don't worry Doug, I have practiced my butt off
  7. Jonas Liebel

    Some concept drawings

    Good day gentlemen, I just wanted to share some concept sketches that I drew over the last few months. May they provide some inspiration for a future handle sculptor... (The point where I actually build these Is coming near) I hope you like what you see
  8. Jonas Liebel

    Arctic Fire Backup Blade Finish

    Fantastic! I don't know if this is a stupid question, but I'll ask anyhow : I watched the 2013 Arctic Fire episode, but are there other / new episodes that I missed? I'm craving them...
  9. Jonas Liebel

    Installing a thermocouple inside a forge

    I understand, thanks a lot for your help Gary!
  10. Jonas Liebel

    Installing a thermocouple inside a forge

    Whoops, I see. Its something like this:
  11. Jonas Liebel

    Installing a thermocouple inside a forge

    Hey Gary, my burner sits in a 45° angle. Thanks!
  12. Jonas Liebel

    Installing a thermocouple inside a forge

    Thanks for your advice guys!
  13. Heya, I'm about to finally finish my propane tank gas forge, and I want to install a thermocouple for temperature control. Now my question is, how, ahm, do i stick it in? My Forge will consist of a layer of ceramic wool and a layer of furnace cement. The termocouple's diameter is 3mm. Now my rough plan is to drill a 6mm hole and weld a 6mm tube into it, sticking the tube as far inside as the cement layer will later go. Then I should obviously stick the thermocouple into the tube and I'm done. Does this make sense? And most importantly, how deep should i put the thermocouple into the forge? Thanks guys
  14. Happy new year everyone! I finally get down to ask you about something that's been on my mind every time I look at some of my knife designs - Is there a range of blade sizes that is useless? I'm talking about EDC / Outdoor / Bushcraft knives here. The way I see it, from comparing sizes of well-established bushcraft knives, the size for a practical little knife of this kind should be about 9.5 - 11.5 cm (3.75 - 4.53 '') . Something like the Fallkniven F1 or the ESEE 4. The next step are the bigger Bushcraft / Outdoor knives that are made to baton and to chop off branches etc. Blades of popular models like the ESEE 6 start at about 14cm. (5.6'') (Please correct me if I'm wrong in any of my thoughts) So there are roughly two sizes of (Bushcraft) knives, the little, EDC-like with 3.75 - 4.53 '' blade length, and the big, chopper-like bushcraft knife with 5.6'' + That being said, what about knife blades falling into that gap between 4.5'' and 5.5'' ? They seem to be too long for a practical edc knife and too short to baton or chop with them. I have a few unfinished blades in exactly that size range that I made before looking at the sizes of succesfull and proven knives. How do you think about this? are there any popular 5'' knives and what are they used for? Please note that I am basing all of my assumptions on data I found online, I have not much experience of using blades bigger than my swiss army knife's. Greetings, Jonas
  15. Jonas Liebel

    Heat treating with a gas forge - some questions

    Thank you guys! Hehe, well, I haven't build the forge yet, I'm still waiting for the insulation material to arrive. I'm planning to build a venturi burner, but I have not yet decided which one to pick of the hundreds of tutorials and how-to's that are out there. It is really confusing for a beginner. Another question arose about heat treating 1095, I'll just ask it here if that's okay: Is it really essential to give every blade a 10 minute soak at 800°C / 1475 F ? Because saving that time was the main reason I wanted to get a bunch of blades in there at the first place. Also, is there any difference in that soaking time if there is clay on the blade? I'm sorry, but there are so many things I haven't really dived into yet...
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