Jonas Liebel

Thanks a lot guys!

Hm, does it work now? Thanks @CCraft!

Last edited: Jul 1, 2018

Last edited: Jul 1, 2018

Hi there,I'm offering three beautiful unique kiridashis, each has it's own distinctive style. They are made from 4.5mm (0.178'') 1095 steel, all hair popping sharp.All prices already contain international shipping. First up we have a kiridashi with red tsuka ito and a delicate swedge. Due to my crappy photo setup I couldn't capture the full beauty and activity of the hamon...It is yours for $120 Next up we have the "Raven's claw", with carved ebony scales. Yours for $180 Last comes the "Harpune", a little tactical kiridashi with G10 scales, mosaic pins and a hardened glass-breaking tip at the end. $125 Thanks for looking! I had a lot of fun designing and building these three knives. Greetings from Germany, Jonas Last edited: 1 minute ago

Hi there,I wanted to use my propane tank gas forge for the first time and started to slowly heat it up, but apparently I didn't let the cement dry long enough, resulting in a loud "bang", a huge flame and a hole in my cement walling. First of all, do you think the big flame that shot out of both ends of the forge was caused by the cement coming off or the other way round?Second, how do I fix the holes? Should I just put some new cement into them and hope that everything bonds together nicely? I'm a little bit lost, so any help would be greatly appreciated Jonas

Great project! May I ask you how you did the Handle inlay, did you cut it out with a router or by hand? Or do you know any good tutorial for handle inlays by chance?

It has been like that since the beginning I think.

Heya, My belt sander is making a lot of noise. It causes the entire workbench it sits on to vibrate, which is the main problem i think. Now I have tried rubber mats and foam mats as an underlay, but that didn't help. I propably should insulate the workbench from wall and floor to stop the vibrations from spreading further, but I dont know how So if anyone has a useful tip on what to do in this situation, I am welcoming every bit of advice! I have added a few pictures to give you an idea of the situation. Cheers! Here you can see the workbench's attachement to the wall, should i somehow insulate something / create space to the wall here? The Legs are locked in place like this, maybe i should insulate something there too?

Thanks guys! Don't worry Doug, I have practiced my butt off

Good day gentlemen, I just wanted to share some concept sketches that I drew over the last few months. May they provide some inspiration for a future handle sculptor... (The point where I actually build these Is coming near) I hope you like what you see

Fantastic! I don't know if this is a stupid question, but I'll ask anyhow : I watched the 2013 Arctic Fire episode, but are there other / new episodes that I missed? I'm craving them...

I understand, thanks a lot for your help Gary!

Whoops, I see. Its something like this:

Hey Gary, my burner sits in a 45° angle. Thanks!

Thanks for your advice guys!

Heya, I'm about to finally finish my propane tank gas forge, and I want to install a thermocouple for temperature control. Now my question is, how, ahm, do i stick it in? My Forge will consist of a layer of ceramic wool and a layer of furnace cement. The termocouple's diameter is 3mm. Now my rough plan is to drill a 6mm hole and weld a 6mm tube into it, sticking the tube as far inside as the cement layer will later go. Then I should obviously stick the thermocouple into the tube and I'm done. Does this make sense? And most importantly, how deep should i put the thermocouple into the forge? Thanks guys

Happy new year everyone! I finally get down to ask you about something that's been on my mind every time I look at some of my knife designs - Is there a range of blade sizes that is useless? I'm talking about EDC / Outdoor / Bushcraft knives here. The way I see it, from comparing sizes of well-established bushcraft knives, the size for a practical little knife of this kind should be about 9.5 - 11.5 cm (3.75 - 4.53 '') . Something like the Fallkniven F1 or the ESEE 4. The next step are the bigger Bushcraft / Outdoor knives that are made to baton and to chop off branches etc. Blades of popular models like the ESEE 6 start at about 14cm. (5.6'') (Please correct me if I'm wrong in any of my thoughts) So there are roughly two sizes of (Bushcraft) knives, the little, EDC-like with 3.75 - 4.53 '' blade length, and the big, chopper-like bushcraft knife with 5.6'' + That being said, what about knife blades falling into that gap between 4.5'' and 5.5'' ? They seem to be too long for a practical edc knife and too short to baton or chop with them. I have a few unfinished blades in exactly that size range that I made before looking at the sizes of succesfull and proven knives. How do you think about this? are there any popular 5'' knives and what are they used for? Please note that I am basing all of my assumptions on data I found online, I have not much experience of using blades bigger than my swiss army knife's. Greetings, Jonas

Thank you guys! Hehe, well, I haven't build the forge yet, I'm still waiting for the insulation material to arrive. I'm planning to build a venturi burner, but I have not yet decided which one to pick of the hundreds of tutorials and how-to's that are out there. It is really confusing for a beginner. Another question arose about heat treating 1095, I'll just ask it here if that's okay: Is it really essential to give every blade a 10 minute soak at 800°C / 1475 F ? Because saving that time was the main reason I wanted to get a bunch of blades in there at the first place. Also, is there any difference in that soaking time if there is clay on the blade? I'm sorry, but there are so many things I haven't really dived into yet...

Thank you very much Tim for your detailed explanation of this great idea - but it's nothing for me, as I want to use my forge also for - well - forging, not only to heat treat. Also, @Al Massey, you are right. I've dropped my idea of wanting to throw a bunch of them in there at the same time. But I still have a question about heat regulation: Should i rather check the forge's heat with a thermocouple and try to aim for the right temperature inside needed for quenching, or should I rather check the heat of the blade itself by taking it out of the forge and measuring it's temperature with a hand-held-temperature-measuring-device-thing? (i might add that I do not know the name in english ^^ )

The design and flow of your knife are outstanding. The only thing that caught my eye was the sheath, I think that burnished edges would look much cleaner Oh, and, what is that type of sheath called? I have to try this mix of folded and stacked leather as well!

Yes, I think i should stick to exactly that. Thank you for your insights guys, they are very valuable to a newbie like me.

Thank you Alan and thank you Brian for your warning, it might save me from some moment of stupidness. I have an idea about several 5x2 cm steel tubes stacked together to get several blades hot at the same time, would that be a possible thing to do? Or does it only work with pipes? (Excuse the quick sketch, I hope you get the point)

Thanks everyone for your information. I see, hot spots are going to ruin my initial idea. About the blade-inside-a-tube-thingy , would I dunk the entire thing into my quenchant? I'm also kind of worried about the tube removing my precious clay outline Once the forge is heated up, how long does it approximately take to heat up a medium size blade (moving it around inside the forge to prevent hot spots)? Of course this varies from forge to forge, but a rough guess is better than nothing.

Heya folks, I am currently building a propane tank gas forge like the one in the picture below. I am also planning to increase my knive production rate to be able to make a little money with my stuff, but I do not yet want to invest several thousands of dollars into a heat treating oven. Now i was asking myself the following: Is it possible (and reasonable) to use my soon-built forge to harden several blades at once? Can I control the heat in there by sticking in a thermocouple sensor and adjusting my burner? I am mainly going to work with 1095, and Im going to stick in a lot of clay-covered blades for hamons. So, for example, would there be any problem with the following scenario: I put 5 clay-covered 1095 blades into the forge (using one of those blade-racks), heat the forge up to 800°C (which is, as far as i know, the temperature to harden 1095 at) and then try to let the blades soak at that temperature for 10 minutes by regulating the heat via the burner. I hope someone can give any advice on that topic Cheers, Jonas