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Mark_Bartlett

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Mark_Bartlett last won the day on May 14

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About Mark_Bartlett

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    Male
  • Location
    Tennessee
  • Interests
    Bladesmithing, hunting, guns, and guitars.
  1. Parks is kind of an oddity. It actually slows when you heat it. Some believe that if you heat it it gets faster, but it doesn't. And some even the opposite that if you heat it, it slows enough to quench slower quench steels which is also incorrect. I had a brief conversation through emails with Kevin Cashen about it and he told me that while slow quench steels like 52100, 5160, 80CrV2, and O-1 will harden in Parks 50, they won't be as tough.
  2. And lastly for today, the whole thing assembled. Now i've got a lot of cleanup, hand sanding, filing, twisting, and finishing to do. All those little details that keep good from being great.
  3. Last few things for the day cut a notch in the tang for the stud. I use high temp 40% silver solder for this. Flux the tang and stud and then heat with a small oxy/propane torch. It'll have to get up around 1100 degrees I believe before the solder starts to flow. Once that's cleaned up, I put the guard in my bending fixture and hooked the ends of the guard. Had to go back and tweak one end over slightly but it's straight now.
  4. I finish the bevels with a file. When I did the push dagger, I tried to hand sand them in and almost ended up remaking them. The files give a much more consistent cut. Darken the center rib with a pencil. The pencil lead will not stain the ivory like a marker would and provides a nice contrast to work with. Then it was a small 1/8" round file to touch up the plunge and some hand sanding with a rounded tip micarta stick and some 220 paper.
  5. Lets start with the handle. I use this little micarta wedge to pry apart scales from the frame and liners when they're on dowel pins. The pins are tight. Just the way I want them. Once I had them off the frame, I marked across the head of the frame to locate center and drilled a 3/16" hole to allow the stud to slide through. Then it was time to reassemble the handle and put it on my little rotation jig to layout the lines where the bevels would be ground to. With those drawn out, I flipped my big D2 file guide over and squared the shoulders up in the guide to set the initial plunge of the handle bevels. with those ground in, it's on to the grinder. I set the adjustable platen at the same angle I used to grind the spacers and started off hogging it away with a new 60 grit AO belt. Then to a scalloped 220 J-Flex to keep from digging into the plunge.
  6. There is no commercial quench oil that is capable of yielding maximum hardness in those sorts of steels except for Parks 50. If you're using Parks 50, DO NOT HEAT IT. Parks has a much lower flash point than most quench oils and actually provides better results at room temperature. Manufacturer recommendation for initial temp is from minimum 50 to a max 120 degrees F. It's one of only a few oils that it's not recommended to heat. And it's the only one I'll recommend for 10XX and W series steels.
  7. Old Nicholson files. If they're American made, they're either C10130 or 1095. If you got full hardness on one shot and not on the next, my guess is going to be that you're testing a spot of decarb. Check the edge with a file (and not another one of those old Nicholsons, some from the early years will cut full hard 1095) If the file is skating, then it's likely just decarb that is throwing the rockwell readings off. Rockwell testers read a puncture hardness where a file will give you a rough idea of the whole edge surface. Then get an oven thermometer. Ignore tempering color. Color is a guess and can be skewed by contaminants on the blade such as quench oil, finger prints, etc. Most ovens will be 10-15 degrees hotter than what they're set at and will often overshoot the temperature coming up. And 450 is too high for 1095 to begin with.
  8. This is new territory for me. I'm getting away from commissioned work because I enjoy more making what I like to make. So this one is up for grabs, Specs: W2 blade, 9.5" long, 14.5"OAL. Ancient bog oak frame handle with wrought iron frames and copper liners. Wrought and copper guard and spacers. This is the first time I believe that a frame handle has been made split in half with a middle liner. All fasteners are hidden. Sheath is leather and alligator skin by Tony Beard. Knife ships with a USB drive loaded with all of the Work In Progress images as well as the full resolution image by Caleb Royer. $2000 including shipping and insurance in the US.
  9. Yea, I mentioned that. #2 and #14. Mom has #2 and #14 was a rare occurrence. I finished the knife, had the sheath made, and delivered it without taking pics. Was a nice little lacewood handle hunter.
  10. Just so there's no confusion. I'm a novice. I've been making knives for three and a half years. At this point I'm about to pay my dues and rejoin the ABS and start back on the track to getting my JS stamp. (long story short, frustration led to a hiatus) What you're seeing in these pictures is research in action. Some guys want the answers laid out for them every time they ask a question. I chose to read. I've read through countless WIP threads and filled in the blanks. I've learned from the best even if only through pictures. And others I've had the blessed privilege of talking to in person and over the phone and messenger. I've picked up tips upon tips from amazing people that saw that I was putting forth an effort and not just begging for the secrets of the world. So when you see something that you might have done different, I'm all ears. This is Work In Progress as well as Learning In Progress as this is the first time I've ever attempted a full sized dogbone like this. The bowie I posted last week was my 27th knife. All the rest are in this little photo except for two of them. I'm nobody, but this should serve as an example. If a nobody can do it, what are you holding back.
  11. Let's hear it... tame may be the way to go to prevent screw ups. Or not. I'm by no means an expert. I'm just a little patient, a whole lot of stubborn, and Mike Quesenberry told me I'm a glutton for punishment. But I am open to suggestions.
  12. The plunges are easy... a few round and teardrop shaped stones and a lot of time. The guard spacer (I've been told it's technically a western habaki) is going to take some patience. The plan is to radius one edge of one of my old sanding blocks and knock it down flush with the ricasso while at the same time finishing the hand sanding of the ricasso. Just takes time. There will still be a slight lip anyway because the blade is damascus and when it's etched there will be high and low spots. But it'll be as close as I can make it.
  13. Now of the ivory. Some nice clean mammoth pieces. I marked the profile and then cut in the bandsaw without touching the lines. This gives me a bit of room to have to grind down. There were a few small places in the back of the scales that had thinned out where the core of the ivory and the outer section met that had a bit of separation. I flooded those areas with water thin CA glue. Then sanded them back off flat. Missed the pics where I cut the center out of the frame and lined lined up the frame and guard spacers and marked the pin placement. But it's very similar to how I marked the guard. (and still very rough cut) Then I put the blade up on the little mag chuck and found the height of the center rib of the blade and marked that line on the tang to give a reference to make sure the handle lines up. Now, with everything together, I wrap some thin pinstripers tape around the frame. The last layer is a different color and when grinding the scales down to the profile, grind down till the belt removes the first layer and with a few wraps left under it, it gives you about .025" of a buffer to grind to with the 60 grit that keeps you from getting into the frame. Then some final trimming and hand sanding on the flats and truing up the radius in the flare at the butt. Next is going to be grinding the bevels into the handle.
  14. Ok. Time to get to the frame. I chose to use alignment pins separate from the pin holes for the domed pins. (we'll talk about why later). I drilled these holes and used them to line up the liners. Same principal as the spacers. Then I went to my handy plunge grinding jig and flattened off the liners to match the frame. This is one of those "go slow" times. Take your time. Remember, the lines on the handle are already crisp. no need to screw them up by rushing.
  15. Let's see if this confuses someone. The frame handle was actually 4 frame sections and 4 liners. All screwed together from the inside.