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Mark_Bartlett

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Mark_Bartlett last won the day on August 13 2017

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    Male
  • Location
    Tennessee
  • Interests
    Bladesmithing, hunting, guns, and guitars.

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  1. Dog Bone Quillon Dagger This is the dagger from the pinned WIP on this forum. Blade: 300+ layer 1080/15N20 ladder Damascus from Randy Haas at HHH Damascus.Guard and Fittings: 4140, mild steel, stainless steel. Hot blued.Handle: Mammoth ivory with stainless pins and escutcheon plate.Sheath: Leather and deerskin belt sheath by Tony Beard.Blade length: 10-5/8"OAL: 15-3/4"$2600 Shipped in the US. Outside the US, please message me.Prefer Paypal. Most other forms of payment accepted. Email moosetrax@live.com
  2. Aldo Bruno. Google New Jersey Steel Baron. He's hands down the best steel supplier in the country.
  3. Yea, I'm gonna have to watch this one. Great job thus far.
  4. Part of the mix will settle on the bottom. I leave mine in the pot and break it up with a piece of rebar before I light the burner and then stir till it's dissolved again.
  5. THIS IS A HOT CAUSTIC BLUING SOLUTION. WHILE IT WILL NOT HARM THE TEMPER OF YOUR BLADES, 275 DEGREE BOILING LYE AND FERTILIZER WILL MOST DEFINITELY HARM YOUR SKIN, EYES, LUNGS, HAIR, SINUSES, AND ANYTHING ELSE ON YOUR BEING THAT IT COMES IN CONTACT WITH. I ASUME NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR INJURIES INCURRED BECAUSE YOU CAN'T READ OR GRASP BASIC SAFETY MEASUREMENTS. PROPER VENTILATION AND PROTECTIVE GEAR (RUBBER GLOVES, SAFETY GOGGLES, GLASSES, FIRE EXTINGUISHER, ETC) IS REQUIRED. I mentioned toward the end of my dagger WIP that I'd make a separate thread on how I blued the fittings. This
  6. Finally gathered the cash and sent the dagger from my WIP thread to Jim Cooper. I'm still new and learning who does what and how and it was an absolute pleasure to send this to Coop. Thank you to those that followed along.
  7. Thank you everyone. This was a definite learning experience. Salem, Thank you. That stabby part was something that I've always liked. Like Cashen, not so fond of the blades that stay full width till they're 2" from the tip. Daggers need to push through stuff.
  8. Since the etching process is straight out of Nick Wheelers world famous WIP, I'll not bother with pics of the blade going in and out. The bluing process is another step that I'll do a separate post on because quite frankly while the info is available, it can be hard to find without ending up on an FBI watch list. So for now, I'll leave you with the all-but-finished pic of my first dogbone dagger and we'll wrap this up. Thanks for all the kind words through this project. The encouragement means a lot.
  9. And lastly, heres the final image for a while. I've got a half ton of cleanup and some other stuff to work through before this is finished. And while it's whole, it's assembled, and it's sharp, it's far from done.
  10. Now with the pins not being structural, because I like to be able to remove pieces right till the last time it goes together, I opted to go with something that I've seen from John White, and more recently Veronique Laurent and Jean-Louis Regal. Pin the ends... Some people don't agree with this and that's fine. I wasn't fond of the idea myself either. But with the tight tolerance of the guide pins (going back to the start where I brought up the necessity for good bits and accurate pin stock) the scales have to be pried off the frame as it is. So I no longer see as much of an issue with this. I
  11. Time for pins. I've been dreading this because it's not being done in the traditional method and even now, they aren't permanently attached, and I hate anything overly repetitive. Like 18 stainless button head rivets. But anyway, I took the pins, chucked them in the drill, and polished them. Then trimmed them to length and turned down an undercut behind the head to allow it to bend easier. Then the pin heads are bent over in a block that is only slightly steeper than the handle facets to account for the pins springing back.
  12. And now the escutcheon plate that almost made me throw things. Small piece of stainless, beveled edges, and two pins is the norm. once I have the bevels ground, I put two pieces of a 3x5 card on either side and set my big file guide down on them. when the guide is clamped to the plate, it leaves a few thousandths stuck up over the guide face. This is how I've been trying to go about this and had a makeshift one from when I did the push dagger. Works much better with this oversized guide. Then I soldered the pins to the back into some recessed holes. I located where I wanted the plate and marke
  13. Everyone knows about hand sanding so I won't spend much time here. What I will show you though is a little dimple in the ricasso. And how do you get it out without tearing up the world. I watched a video (highly recommend it too) of the gentleman at Greenfield guitars building custom acoustics. His apprentice was fitting some spalted maple pieces into a trim ring groove. While most of us would say flip the grinder on and ever so lightly bump the piece against a belt or disc, he was putting a little bit of pressure on the work piece and gently rotating the disc by hand with his other thumb. I'v
  14. Separate comment for this. I was asked over on facebook if I used EDM stones. Not really. I have a few odds and ends of diamond hones and rods and some ceramic and a few hard Arkansas stones and such that I use for the task of cleaning up plunges and such. But all my hand sanding is done with sandpaper and backing blocks.
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