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Mark_Bartlett

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Mark_Bartlett last won the day on July 24

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About Mark_Bartlett

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    Male
  • Location
    Tennessee
  • Interests
    Bladesmithing, hunting, guns, and guitars.
  1. How about another Work In Progress... Forged W2, stainless, brass, and Koa. At least that's the plan as of now.
  2. Finally gathered the cash and sent the dagger from my WIP thread to Jim Cooper. I'm still new and learning who does what and how and it was an absolute pleasure to send this to Coop. Thank you to those that followed along.
  3. Thank you everyone. This was a definite learning experience. Salem, Thank you. That stabby part was something that I've always liked. Like Cashen, not so fond of the blades that stay full width till they're 2" from the tip. Daggers need to push through stuff.
  4. Since the etching process is straight out of Nick Wheelers world famous WIP, I'll not bother with pics of the blade going in and out. The bluing process is another step that I'll do a separate post on because quite frankly while the info is available, it can be hard to find without ending up on an FBI watch list. So for now, I'll leave you with the all-but-finished pic of my first dogbone dagger and we'll wrap this up. Thanks for all the kind words through this project. The encouragement means a lot.
  5. And lastly, heres the final image for a while. I've got a half ton of cleanup and some other stuff to work through before this is finished. And while it's whole, it's assembled, and it's sharp, it's far from done.
  6. Now with the pins not being structural, because I like to be able to remove pieces right till the last time it goes together, I opted to go with something that I've seen from John White, and more recently Veronique Laurent and Jean-Louis Regal. Pin the ends... Some people don't agree with this and that's fine. I wasn't fond of the idea myself either. But with the tight tolerance of the guide pins (going back to the start where I brought up the necessity for good bits and accurate pin stock) the scales have to be pried off the frame as it is. So I no longer see as much of an issue with this. I drilled 3 of the 5 spacers so that the dowels would butt against the #2 spacer and leave plenty sticking into the scales. Then put the spacers back on the handle and drilled the holes into the ivory. I used the Grobet handpiece with a 1/16" bit because The hand piece can run considerably slower than my drill press with the foot control that allows me to stop it without fumbling for a switch if something goes wrong. Then something similar for the end cap under the finial except for that part I made a sacrificial plate that I used to transfer the holes perfectly to both the butt and the cap.
  7. Time for pins. I've been dreading this because it's not being done in the traditional method and even now, they aren't permanently attached, and I hate anything overly repetitive. Like 18 stainless button head rivets. But anyway, I took the pins, chucked them in the drill, and polished them. Then trimmed them to length and turned down an undercut behind the head to allow it to bend easier. Then the pin heads are bent over in a block that is only slightly steeper than the handle facets to account for the pins springing back.
  8. And now the escutcheon plate that almost made me throw things. Small piece of stainless, beveled edges, and two pins is the norm. once I have the bevels ground, I put two pieces of a 3x5 card on either side and set my big file guide down on them. when the guide is clamped to the plate, it leaves a few thousandths stuck up over the guide face. This is how I've been trying to go about this and had a makeshift one from when I did the push dagger. Works much better with this oversized guide. Then I soldered the pins to the back into some recessed holes. I located where I wanted the plate and marked the holes for the pins. Filed the excess solder off the back, and heres where things took a turn. The plate warped in the soldering process and refused to sit flat. So I had three choices, Leave it with a gap, break off the pins and flatten and try it again, or, screw it... Yes, screw it. I found a #48 drill bit, drilled the holes all but through the plate, and threaded them with a 2-56 blind tap. Then counter bored the back of the holes, flattened the back of the plate, and put two stainless 2-56 screws in it. and I'm done for the night. I'll play with it some more tomorrow.
  9. Everyone knows about hand sanding so I won't spend much time here. What I will show you though is a little dimple in the ricasso. And how do you get it out without tearing up the world. I watched a video (highly recommend it too) of the gentleman at Greenfield guitars building custom acoustics. His apprentice was fitting some spalted maple pieces into a trim ring groove. While most of us would say flip the grinder on and ever so lightly bump the piece against a belt or disc, he was putting a little bit of pressure on the work piece and gently rotating the disc by hand with his other thumb. I've found it's easier and less likely to screw something up if I hold pressure on the ricasso against the platen and with the drive belt off, roll the belt by hand, repeatedly checking progress. I left it with just a slight mark that is all but gone now after hand sanding the blade.
  10. Separate comment for this. I was asked over on facebook if I used EDM stones. Not really. I have a few odds and ends of diamond hones and rods and some ceramic and a few hard Arkansas stones and such that I use for the task of cleaning up plunges and such. But all my hand sanding is done with sandpaper and backing blocks.
  11. Next comes cleaning up the guard spacers. I took the whole stack to 400 with the belt running really slow. Then to 800. Then, the accent rings... This is about the only real side load work I'll do in my drill press. I keep the drill running wide open and cut light so the chance of damage from side loading the bearings is minimal. I've got some small knife edge cratex wheels I'll clean them up with later. Then the same thing for the finial spacer. And lastly cleaning up the plunge of the frame and spacers with a small tapered cratex bit. And here we have the newer, cleaner, more elegant profile of the guard.
  12. Started friday afternoon with finish fitting the spacer to the ricasso. Got it even with just a slight 5 thousandths or so lip. I left it just over so the transition wouldn't look jagged with the blade etched. Then I scribed a grind to line on the ends of the guard and started thinning them down and tapering the guard. Nothing looks worse than a blocky guard on something like this. After that was a whole lot of sanding and polishing. I've got a few places to touch up but it's finished for the most part.
  13. Parks is kind of an oddity. It actually slows when you heat it. Some believe that if you heat it it gets faster, but it doesn't. And some even the opposite that if you heat it, it slows enough to quench slower quench steels which is also incorrect. I had a brief conversation through emails with Kevin Cashen about it and he told me that while slow quench steels like 52100, 5160, 80CrV2, and O-1 will harden in Parks 50, they won't be as tough.
  14. And lastly for today, the whole thing assembled. Now i've got a lot of cleanup, hand sanding, filing, twisting, and finishing to do. All those little details that keep good from being great.