Kreg Whitehead

I really wanna make a 2x 72...gotta ask what made ya not go that route? Thats a pretty wild lookin billet? It appears you are going to have some copper on the edge? Is that not a concern? Legit Q?...just curious. Looking fwd to what you make of this.

I will post a pic of what I end up with....thanks guys! Edit; also....what would your best guess be on these old hand saws I found for sale.

Sounds like I am getting it friday.

The title pretty much says it all. Do you think this is wrought iron?? Its not priced bad....she wants 20 bucks.

I tried the float test.....and its not ironwood. As far as smell....the walnut I was cutting had way more of an aroma than what ever this is. I dont really care for the smell of walnut. I guess I am gonna roll with some kind of teak. Google is calling this one plantation teak. Also....this HAVE been hit with BLO...but arent sanded real well.

I have been wanting to try this also. I have to ask....rather than try and stack and forge weld....I am wondering why it cant just be melted down in a crucible to a puck. Forgive my terminology if I am off the mark with any of that.

Thanks guys....I will try the sink test....and maybe get some more pics up. I have enough of this stuff to make 100's of blades.

Maybe santa does exist =) Friday I was cleaning the shop and getting rid of the table my grinder was bolted to. About 2 sledge hammer swings into tuning into fire wood and I noticed it was pretty nice looking with out the black stain. Sooooooo I have a grip of this stuff and would like to try and sell some or possibly trade for other material. My best guess was maybe Malaysian teak or some other teak. Someone on facebook thought it was mango.....another said ironwood. It seems a little light and orange to me for ironwood......I know ironwood can vary quite a bit.

I am not positive of anything....but I am pretty sure this wasnt cracked right after I pulled it out of the brine. I made the mistake of grinding it before the temper. Kinda bummed cause it has a great hamon. Do ya think whats left can be made into a folder? I realize the bolster holes arent ideal for that. Can anyone recommend a link or a book for that? Does Jantz or someone make like a premade frame that I can just attach the blade and toss some scales on? Or would that be waaaaaay too easy. I tried to get a little better pic of the grain but everytime I try t

I agree totally with the how you get there is less important than getting there part. At the end of the day I could care less what you or anyone thinks of the way I do it....and I equally dont care how you do it. I am not to smart to learn anything so maybe you can spell it out for me how the way I am doing it isnt going to let me get any level finish I want? For discussion sake lets say we are talking 120 grit.....the belt that you start your finish grinding with...because if we are equal to that point the rest of it is pretty irrelevant I would think. I grind with 24....I

I suppose there is more than one way to get there. He was mentioning having trouble with a final sharpened edge. When I take it with 24 grit and get a burr that looks like this ....I know my finished edge is going to be sharp AF. I harden with my edge at least as thick as a dime. I personally cant see any reason not to go at it with the 24 until you get to this point Takes longer....uses more belts.....more overheating risk using finer belts for longer periods. I hear of guys hand sanding to 400 grit before quenching....again I just dont see the point. To each his own

Been seeing some of this over on fb. This particular ad reads something like"fordite from a kenworth. This stuff is seldom in slabs like jeep fordite" I get that its handle /bolster material....but exactly wth is it? I think this guy wants 90.00 a pound and the pieces dont appear to be to be big enough to do an entire handle....at least in one piece per side.

My plates are large enough I can do a couple larger blades or 3 or 4 smaller without stacking. I will be following this one.

I do all my material removal to get my edge where I want with 24 grit....then 80 to get rid of the 24 lines...then go to the trizac 300 to get rid of the 80 grit lines. I guess if the point I am attempting to make is things are going to get alot hotter alot faster the finer grit you use. I only use them the minimal amount needed.

You will break some blades....but w2 is hard to beat for a hamon. The last few I have done clayless in saltwater. On the above steels mentioned only 1075, 1095 and W1 are decent for hamon's....and I like w2 more than both of those. Edit;....not a good pic but the blade on the left in this pic was a W2 salt water victim.