Kreg Whitehead

I get all my scales from RCI Industries on FB.....Rob Carper. He has some killer stuff. More than once have I bought scales and not even had a blade in the works. lol Edit; I guess it Rob Carpet Industries now. He does alot of hybrid stuff like this.

The blade there is mine. I ended up not caring for it and sanded it off.....so I can tell ya anything about durability. I dissolved an old wheat cent as mentioned in the other thread.....no electricity or current was used at all.

Thanks for the links.....if I ever get a tax return I think I am gonna have to grab one.

I think I may have to have one if my tax return ever comes......I wonder if it has a big brother. I was thinking of going to the 250-300 dolla range.

Unless you have some parks 50 I would go with something other than 1095 or w2. Its not impossible to harden 1095 in canola....but I dont think your going to get a blade as strong as say 1084 I just redid a 1095 blade I orig hardened about a year ago. Although it skated a file pretty well after canola. There was a noticeable difference after the parks 50.....mostly the sound the file made on the edge....if that makes any sense.

I have successfully fixed a few warps while tempering. I over correct the warp slightly by sammiching a coin between a the blade and a piece of angle iron. If I dont get it all in the first temper I use a thicker coin or add another. I am sure the 3 pin deal can work....but I am sceeered I will snap a blade.

Here is a shot with the burners off....I consider this more than a small area of heat. To each his own.....I use my hot spot as a tool...not a hindrance to me at all.

Hind sight is 20/20. When it comes time to re line my forge I am gonna move my back burner forward a few inches to attempt to make one large hot spot....you can see in the vid right now I have two separate ones. I do a good amount of moving the blade around in there to try and heat things even. I get the handle red before putting the knife in blade first.

Its an old propane tank I had lying around. I was trying to find a pic of the blade I was heating up to quench...after the quench. It had some scale but it was easily knocked off with one scrape of the file.

KVID2807.mp4

I will try and post it from my phone.....I have a hard time navigating from my phone on here but I will give it a shot.

https://www.facebook.com/kreg.whitehead/videos/2310637222302175/ Not sure if that link is gonna worky.....let me know. I love my 12;00 burners. I know nothing of hells forges.....but at 10 or 8.75" that awfully small....a handle is 5"

I am about to have 8 or 10 filet knives water jetted out of some stainless saw blades I acquired and was going to use some walnut that was given to me(in trade for a filet knife) Maybe I will pick up some Tung oil. I was kicking around the idea of thinning some fiberglass resin with some acetone...painting that on the handle....then sanding it after it dries. Any one ever tried something like that?? Hopefully thats on topic here. I was going to start a thread and ask.....but figured I would throw it out here.

I like the hot spots.....I am getting Much better watching for the phase change. I usually heat the handle first. I am not sure how you guys can even heat a blade with out one(hot spot)......tip is gonna get to critical way before the thicker part of the blade. Like you said.....personal preference. As far as the chimney dealio....my lines have quick disconnect couplers so thats a non issue unless I am to dumb to unhook em.

I think burner position is more of a preference. I have 2 burners at 12.00.....my only regret is not putting them closer so it would make one larger hot spot instead of 2. When it comes time to reline my forge I am gonna bring the back burner forward about 6 inches. If I read your post right....you are saying having them at 12;00 is dangerous?!?