Kreg Whitehead

I was able to finish 3 kydex sheaths over the weekend. My plan for a belt loop appears to have worked....but I think I am going to shorten one of them.

I would like to see how you guys are accomplishing a belt loop. I THINK I have a plan...but haven tried it yet. If it works I will post a pic.

I use a 24 grit 2x 72 pre and post quench....then a 50 grit...then a trizac 300,100,45,then 30. A scotch brite and a 2x 72 leather belt are on my to do list as well. Its been my experience that the coarser grits build heat less quickly than the finer belts. I leave my edge about the thickness of a dime prior to quench.....I don't see the point of going finer than 24 grit prior to ht/quench. On thinner blades like 1/8 stock kitchen knives I will go thinner.....but not so thin that I see a need to use anything finer than 24 grit. I don't hand sand or sharpen anything.....

They usually get heated a time or 3 to get em straight....then I air cool em. I was letting them cool off in the forge....then was told on here you do NOT want to slow cool 5160. If there is a way to make them softer let me know. There are 5 paydays next month....unless life throws me a curve ball I am gonna pull the trigger on a plasma cutter. Until then I am gonna bribe a friend with another blade to cut 10 or so of em out for me.

I scored a bunch spring steel last weekend =)

Last weekend I scored a pile of leaf springs. I am getting tired of profiling with an angle grinder. I have been calling a few water jetting places and they are talking like 12-15 per blade....plus a set up fee. I am contemplating a plasma cutter. I have heard people talk about "heat affected zone" Is that really a concern if you still need to normalize,thermal cycle and quench a blade?? And if so are we talking 1/8"....1/4"??

I was finally ready to bite the bullet and buy some Rockwell files a couple days ago. Called Jantz...the person there said they are 135.00....and we are out. I have access to a bunch of free hardened stainless circular saw blades. I have made a handful of filet blades for family and friends....and the guy that hooks me up with the blades. I wanna make a bunch and take em in for consignment...a local place has sold a few of my blades. I would really like to know what I am taking in there steel/hardness wise.....is anyone willing to let me send them a small piece to test. I did a snap test on a piece about 1" wide....and it passed that with flying colors. Does anyone on here do cyro…..would love to know how hard these blades are....and would love to know if the blades from it would/will benefit from cyro.

How much are ya asking for the standard scales.....love spalted maple. Hopefully I am ok to ask that.

Not sure what you are asking. He has pretty much everything. Straight burl....hybrid....straight alumalight. He puts everything in the alumalight from seashells,opal,malachite, copper flake, aluminum mesh for a lizard skin look ect. His chola cactus scales are some of my fav. At Zeb.....it looks pretty good to me. I am bored at work....I may edit in a few pics of Robs handle material on some of my blades.

Go on facebook and look up Rob Carpet and RCI.....Rob Carper Industries. Fell free to tell him I sent ha if ya want.

I have spent a small fortune on handle material. The last set of scales I got 4 handles for 50 bucks. But I have spent 25-40 per handle. My boy is working at a cabinet shop.....and has got me about 15 sets of scales cut out of walnut and white oak. The walnut isn't bad looking as is....but the white oak is beyond boring....to me at least. It blows my mind how my handle/scale guy can get the color...and I assume the "stabilizing agent" all the way through the wood. If there is an older/existing thread maybe someone can link it here for me. What equipment would I need to buy? I have pinecones coming out my ears.....can I just cast them in alumalight.....or do they need to be "stabilized" also.

Thanks all.....wish it was a little closer....but I guess a couple hour drive wont kill me. Hopefully someone doesn't beat me to it. I asked her if there were any markings on it. She says its stamped either t37b....or t371.....not sure if that's helpful or not. I guess I need to figure Instagram out....I guess Timber Ridge knives that has some of my blades on consignment has some on there.

Thanks guys....as far as the rebound.....maybe bounce a ball bearing. I have zero experience with anvils.....not sure I could tell with a hammer or not.

Any insight on this? I am not crazy about its non traditional shape.....but its priced pretty good. 75Lbs and she is asking 150.00

My first forge was angle iron....light weight fire bricks.....and a weed burner. Never tried to put any refractory cement over it.....but I assume that the bricks will become brittle and break if you look at them wrong in time....at least mine did without the refractory.