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Kreg Whitehead

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Everything posted by Kreg Whitehead

  1. I have been using minwax wood hardener and "canning" them in mason jars. I can tell its penetrating because I can watch the liquid level go down over the course of a week. Edit.....note the wood hardener starts to boil way before the water. I guess you would call it boil....it starts micro bubble like crazy. Can hear the vacuum when I pop the lid.
  2. Here are a couple I am fond of. The damascus is alabama.....the hamon blade is some w2 I edge/brine quenched
  3. I have done quite a few brass and nickel bolsters.....never needed/used solder.
  4. I need to make the jump to leather. No matter what I do kydex marks my blades up after a few dozen times in and out. Is that just deco stamping next to the stitching....does that keep it from cutting the threads?? I need to search out some sheath threads. I just paid 90.00 ea. for 2 sheaths. I have never heard of that kind of wood. It looks a whole lot like a batch I bought out of south africa. The guy there is calling is peruvian pepper burl.
  5. I though it was gonna be the bees knees when I ordered mine.....I dont even put batteries in it anymore. Edit...I just have the thermometer....no P.I.D. Hind sight is 20/20. I wish I would have put my back burner about 3" further forward. It would make my forge heat alot more evenly. As it is now I have two hot spots and need to watch and move the blade around alot to keep things even. Will follow this....if I ever make a new forge I may look into a PID
  6. Maybe I missed it...but I am surprised no one has pointed out that the stainless wont be hard ...waaaaaaay different than your powdered 1084 or 1095 ect. I have heard/read the stainless to to high carbon steel is quite the challenge....not sure if the can will make that part easier or not. Edit; my bad...the post above me points out the 2 will have different heat treat parameters.
  7. I am way interested. I think I get it....would love to see a pic when you finish it.
  8. I am gonna wave the rookie flag here...what exactly is the stainless for? To make a stencil?? I gave up un the etching because I was only getting about 5 blades per stencil....but they were some kind of vinyl/plastic.
  9. I wanted to log on from home Saturday and say thanks for all the well wishes...but forgot my password. Was a pretty rough week last week. Got my 21 stitches out this morning. I think I am gonna make a foot doc appt. My right ankle is black and blue 360*...but my left one hurts most. I have a few blades ready for handles. Got some of my peruvian pepper burl on a cleaver I made out of some 52100.
  10. I got a bunch of killer burl from so africa a month or so ago. I have got it on one blade...still finishing the handle. I have 4 other blades ready for handles...hope to have some pics soon. The silver nickel bolster and pin material I ordered from Jantz should be at my house today. Last Saturday about 1;30 or 2 ish I started profiling a blade out of my last piece of 52100. By about 4 I had it cut out and ground ready for heat treating. I have never had any tongs....I use bailing wire through one of my tang holes...vice grips...and a metal bar for blade mani
  11. Good news for my wallet....it turned out to just be a switch. I had an old bench grinder laying around collecting dust that had a push/pull switch like the Griz. Swapped em out an she worky now. Thanks for the replies.
  12. I could be up in the night....but the switch doesnt feel right. I will get at least that far tonight. I lost a router last weekend as well. The motor still runs but the collar or what ever its called that holds the bit is toast. Trying to figure out what I can Frankenstein that into. lol
  13. My garage has 2 outlets .....have tested 2 of them with other tools....then plugged the grinder in to the same spot(s). I dont know jack about much of anything sparky. Gonna try and get it apart this weekend and see what I find. Will start by testing the switch.
  14. I am positive the box is live.....cord "appears" fine. What ever it is its been working up to this for a while.
  15. I guess I will pull it apart and hope for something obvious. I also had toyed with the idea of frankanstiening it for parts. Sucks I waited a month for a batch of wood from south africa.....now I finally have it and no grinder. lol
  16. A couple years ago I bought a grizzly 2 x 72 model g1015. For the last 6 or 8 months sometimes when I would pull the knob on it would start for a half second and then stop. Sometimes it would start back up by itself but I just got in a habit of shutting it off and back on real fast. Fast forward to sunday I turned it on and notta....no hum no nothing. My first thought was maybe its a switch. I called grizzly and they thought it was more likely the start capacitor...or possibly the motor =( Beeb asking around and have been told if it is the capacitor I should be
  17. Google recalescence decalescence vid...and better yet throw the name Wes in that search. I ended up stumbling on one Wes on here put up. For lack of a better way to describe it you chase dark out of the blade....and can kind of see it phasing(that also my not be the right term) Practice ...if you get it right the red steel will cool to dark...then the dark will be chased by more red. I dont notice it much when working with real thin steel....I suspect the cooling and reheating happens too fast to really see. Probably arent going to see it real well if its well lit.
  18. I also use the slack part of the belt applying some pressure tword the blade edge. I am a lot more consistent that way then the way he does in the vid with the belt. Depends a little on the blade. Once I get it to where I know it will throw a burl with 24 grit grinding edge first with a jig. Then freehand a300 then a 100 For the slack part I go trizac a 45 then a30...then medium scotchbrite...then buffer.
  19. His accent could have been Aussi.....at one point he says this is me favorite knife. Preaches a little at first about buffing and grinding safety, After that vid I turned my buffer around so the wheel is going away from me.
  20. My blades are razor sharp.....and I do zero by hand. All on the belt then buffer. I have put a vid up a few times on here and pretty much got crickets...not a vid of me but a vid I was turned on to a few years ago. I can try and dig it up again if anyone wants. Its on youtube under how to make blades surgically sharp or something along those lines.
  21. Thanks....I am going to make a pair of em….one for each of us. I wanted to but some 5160 but the barron was out completely. I ended up pulling the trigger on some .156 1084. The bevel height you posts is helpful also.....tnx as usual. Btw...as far as flexibility. Is that dictated by temper?? I know thinner= more flexible by nature but wondered what other factors there are/were.
  22. The main reason I am posting is my BFF wants me to make him a manchette. With my current set up 12 or 13" is about all I can HT length wise.(blade only not including handle length.) I would like to get some steel in the way. I was thinking some 3/16 stock...then it dawned on my I have never seen a manchette that thick at the spine. Also....I have never seen a "real" one....only the generic crap like at an ACE hardware. Would love to see some pics of what you guys have done.....
  23. I don't have a finished blade to show for it......but I got 3 or 4 " of just one end hot. Clamped the crud out of it in my vice. Once cooled I brought all of the cable but that spot up to temp. Pulled it out of the forge and put the opposite end in a vise.....and used the cool/flattened end to get some vice grips on.
  24. I am gonna be curious to the responses here. I am mostly a material reduction guy and love 1/8 and 3/32 for kitchen blades. I barely grind in any bevel before HT. I cant imagine trying to forge something that thin.
  25. I did a little research and my 2x 72 Grizzley was about 700 off memory. I have gave it the chevy stress test for sure. Keep in mind its not gonna do a hollow grind …..I guess anything is possible but its more set up for flat grinds.
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