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Kreg Whitehead

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Everything posted by Kreg Whitehead

  1. What mild steel are you using 1018-1020 or I think the junk stuff is a36....or something like that. I tried a san mai a year or so ago with the a36 or what ever it is.....it sorta stuck but not well enough to try and grind a blade. If I try again I am gonna use some 1018 or 20 and use kerosene initially/before going in the forge...and then borax after.
  2. I was able to finish 3 kydex sheaths over the weekend. My plan for a belt loop appears to have worked....but I think I am going to shorten one of them.
  3. I would like to see how you guys are accomplishing a belt loop. I THINK I have a plan...but haven tried it yet. If it works I will post a pic.
  4. I use a 24 grit 2x 72 pre and post quench....then a 50 grit...then a trizac 300,100,45,then 30. A scotch brite and a 2x 72 leather belt are on my to do list as well. Its been my experience that the coarser grits build heat less quickly than the finer belts. I leave my edge about the thickness of a dime prior to quench.....I don't see the point of going finer than 24 grit prior to ht/quench. On thinner blades like 1/8 stock kitchen knives I will go thinner.....but not so thin that I see a need to use anything finer than 24 grit. I don't hand sand or sharpen anything.....
  5. They usually get heated a time or 3 to get em straight....then I air cool em. I was letting them cool off in the forge....then was told on here you do NOT want to slow cool 5160. If there is a way to make them softer let me know. There are 5 paydays next month....unless life throws me a curve ball I am gonna pull the trigger on a plasma cutter. Until then I am gonna bribe a friend with another blade to cut 10 or so of em out for me.
  6. I scored a bunch spring steel last weekend =)
  7. Last weekend I scored a pile of leaf springs. I am getting tired of profiling with an angle grinder. I have been calling a few water jetting places and they are talking like 12-15 per blade....plus a set up fee. I am contemplating a plasma cutter. I have heard people talk about "heat affected zone" Is that really a concern if you still need to normalize,thermal cycle and quench a blade?? And if so are we talking 1/8"....1/4"??
  8. I was finally ready to bite the bullet and buy some Rockwell files a couple days ago. Called Jantz...the person there said they are 135.00....and we are out. I have access to a bunch of free hardened stainless circular saw blades. I have made a handful of filet blades for family and friends....and the guy that hooks me up with the blades. I wanna make a bunch and take em in for consignment...a local place has sold a few of my blades. I would really like to know what I am taking in there steel/hardness wise.....is anyone willing to let me send them a small piece to test. I did a snap test on a piece about 1" wide....and it passed that with flying colors. Does anyone on here do cyro…..would love to know how hard these blades are....and would love to know if the blades from it would/will benefit from cyro.
  9. How much are ya asking for the standard scales.....love spalted maple. Hopefully I am ok to ask that.
  10. Not sure what you are asking. He has pretty much everything. Straight burl....hybrid....straight alumalight. He puts everything in the alumalight from seashells,opal,malachite, copper flake, aluminum mesh for a lizard skin look ect. His chola cactus scales are some of my fav. At Zeb.....it looks pretty good to me. I am bored at work....I may edit in a few pics of Robs handle material on some of my blades.
  11. Go on facebook and look up Rob Carpet and RCI.....Rob Carper Industries. Fell free to tell him I sent ha if ya want.
  12. I have spent a small fortune on handle material. The last set of scales I got 4 handles for 50 bucks. But I have spent 25-40 per handle. My boy is working at a cabinet shop.....and has got me about 15 sets of scales cut out of walnut and white oak. The walnut isn't bad looking as is....but the white oak is beyond boring....to me at least. It blows my mind how my handle/scale guy can get the color...and I assume the "stabilizing agent" all the way through the wood. If there is an older/existing thread maybe someone can link it here for me. What equipment would I need to buy? I have pinecones coming out my ears.....can I just cast them in alumalight.....or do they need to be "stabilized" also.
  13. Thanks all.....wish it was a little closer....but I guess a couple hour drive wont kill me. Hopefully someone doesn't beat me to it. I asked her if there were any markings on it. She says its stamped either t37b....or t371.....not sure if that's helpful or not. I guess I need to figure Instagram out....I guess Timber Ridge knives that has some of my blades on consignment has some on there.
  14. Thanks guys....as far as the rebound.....maybe bounce a ball bearing. I have zero experience with anvils.....not sure I could tell with a hammer or not.
  15. Any insight on this? I am not crazy about its non traditional shape.....but its priced pretty good. 75Lbs and she is asking 150.00
  16. My first forge was angle iron....light weight fire bricks.....and a weed burner. Never tried to put any refractory cement over it.....but I assume that the bricks will become brittle and break if you look at them wrong in time....at least mine did without the refractory.
  17. I am pretty sure I have the one Joel mentioned. I thought it was going make my HT/Quench a "no brainer" It doesn't.....or at least it didn't for me. The best thing that ever happened to my HT was when my muffle turned into swiss cheese for being used so much. Now that the blade is just in the forge I can see decalescence much better. I heat the handle first then use my hot spots to try and evenly heat my blade.
  18. I tried to post a link...apparently I did something wrong. I don't own a stone.....every thing is done on a grinder and buffing wheel. I struggled until someone hooked me up with a youtube vid....How to sharpen knives so they are surgically sharp.
  19. I recently picked up a grizzly for around 700.00 if I remember right. It was the best priced one I could find. Welcome to the madness......
  20. I meant stainless in general......
  21. Anyone ever thin some fiberglass resin with acetone? Maybe a coat or 3 sanding between. I would need to use resin with wax so it doesnt dry sticky. Only reason I ask I am making a bunch of filet knives....and have a bunch of walnut laying around. Made one for the guy who gave me the wood. Just finished grinding one for the guy that gave me all the saw blades. My bro wants to buy one....and gonna make myself one. I would think the glass could be buffed once dry.......unless it builds too much heat
  22. It may not be impossible......but I dont think you are gonna heat treat any without an oven. Stainless is much more complicated than carbon steel.
  23. I think most will agree that stock removal is a good place to start. You can forge a perfect blade....then screw it up grinding. Think of it like learning to walk before you can run.
  24. I turned my buffer so the wheel is going away from me.....that way it it does get caught/tossed the blade going away and not coming at me.
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