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JeffM

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JeffM last won the day on January 19 2018

JeffM had the most liked content!

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    SW Minnesota
  • Interests
    Woodworking, Leather working, and of course knife making

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    ceitmfg@yahoo.com

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  1. I am a manufacturing manager for heavy industrial equipment by day...and a part time blade smith / leather worker. When I'm not hammering / grinding on steel or making the associated leather work I'm usually either working in my garden or hunting and fishing. I'm an avid reader with over 2000 books in my personal library...and last but far from least I am a devoted husband / father / grandfather....
  2. At first blush after reading this I would say you need to clean your steel from contamination....acetone rags and a scrub brush are your friend when you're starting your billets. the other thing I notice is you didn't identify which 2+ types of steel you are trying to forge weld together...not all types of steel play nice with each other
  3. I've run into this several times....the blades are NOT actually made in the UAE...they are imported to the UAE from Pakistan or China. Then in turn they are pushed thru the marketplace at lowball prices....You see the same thing with a lot of damascus blades shipping from England they also are imports from Pakistan and China... What it really comes down to is a cheap attempt at masking the point of origin for where the blades were made because it's widely known that Pakistan and China both use poor quality steel and in some cases they completely mis-represent what actual
  4. either O1 or D2 and I agree with Garry Keown scandi grind
  5. Picture in the middle is my 2nd knife ever made....the first is way too ugly to show.... the damascus knife on the left is my latest creation...and the one on the right is somewhere in the middle completed about 3-4 years ago
  6. either trace amounts of ferric chloride or acetone...degraded the rubber and made it gooey....been there done that....also wrecked a pair of steel toed boots that way...spilled some ferric chloride on the concrete shop floor....didn't really pay much attention walked thru it...and about 2 weeks later the rubber soles of my boots disintegrated
  7. just a heads up...A36 steel is low carbon steel and will not harden
  8. If you want to go the stock removal route D2 would work but as others have said....it IS a tough material for a beginner to work with....I burned up a lot of man hours in the shop with D2 simply because I had several hundred pounds of scrap to work with that didn't cost me anything...once I settled on only using D2 for stock removal my workability improved immensely...during your learning curve you might want to consider either 1084 or 1075...much easier and more forgiving materials to start out with...
  9. Something seems a bit off here....what I have done in the past is to preheat to 1500 degrees for 5 minutes then bring it up to 1950 degrees for 15 minutes Tempering I use 350 degrees for 2 cycles at 2 hours per cycle. I would start by reducing your preheat temp...it could be as simple as too much heat too fast caused excessive grain growth. Also after forging you should consider and equalization cycle of 1350 degrees for 4-6 hours before going on to heat treat and tempering. As a cross reference I just checked Alpha Knife supply and their charts are pretty close to what I just posted h
  10. Good looking work Conner....it's fun watching you progress
  11. For me it would be a tanto knife with a mosaic damascus pattern simply because I have not made one yet...
  12. Alve it doesn't get any better than that....outstanding job
  13. it's too small you should just send it to me and make a larger billet
  14. get a good healthy down payment up front before you start the work...it helps alleviate the scammy feeling...
  15. The wise guy in me says if you don't like the W...go for D2
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