Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


JeffM last won the day on January 19 2018

JeffM had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

75 Excellent

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    SW Minnesota
  • Interests
    Woodworking, Leather working, and of course knife making

Contact Methods

  • Yahoo

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. either O1 or D2 and I agree with Garry Keown scandi grind
  2. Picture in the middle is my 2nd knife ever made....the first is way too ugly to show.... the damascus knife on the left is my latest creation...and the one on the right is somewhere in the middle completed about 3-4 years ago
  3. either trace amounts of ferric chloride or acetone...degraded the rubber and made it gooey....been there done that....also wrecked a pair of steel toed boots that way...spilled some ferric chloride on the concrete shop floor....didn't really pay much attention walked thru it...and about 2 weeks later the rubber soles of my boots disintegrated
  4. just a heads up...A36 steel is low carbon steel and will not harden
  5. If you want to go the stock removal route D2 would work but as others have said....it IS a tough material for a beginner to work with....I burned up a lot of man hours in the shop with D2 simply because I had several hundred pounds of scrap to work with that didn't cost me anything...once I settled on only using D2 for stock removal my workability improved immensely...during your learning curve you might want to consider either 1084 or 1075...much easier and more forgiving materials to start out with...
  6. Something seems a bit off here....what I have done in the past is to preheat to 1500 degrees for 5 minutes then bring it up to 1950 degrees for 15 minutes Tempering I use 350 degrees for 2 cycles at 2 hours per cycle. I would start by reducing your preheat temp...it could be as simple as too much heat too fast caused excessive grain growth. Also after forging you should consider and equalization cycle of 1350 degrees for 4-6 hours before going on to heat treat and tempering. As a cross reference I just checked Alpha Knife supply and their charts are pretty close to what I just posted h
  7. Good looking work Conner....it's fun watching you progress
  8. For me it would be a tanto knife with a mosaic damascus pattern simply because I have not made one yet...
  9. Alve it doesn't get any better than that....outstanding job
  10. it's too small you should just send it to me and make a larger billet
  11. get a good healthy down payment up front before you start the work...it helps alleviate the scammy feeling...
  12. The wise guy in me says if you don't like the W...go for D2
  13. Hi Gerhard The only consistent success I have had with walnut and walnut burl is to stabilize it first...then do the shaping and polishing.... I have also used boiled linseed oil and tung oil with results that wide spread and in some cases completely not what I wanted
  14. stabilized white oak makes some excellent knife scales...
  15. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Stark-0-to-99-9-Humidity-Tester-Digital-Wood-Moisture-Meter-2-Pins-14013/311022733?mtc=Shopping-B-F_D25T-G-D25T-25_1_HAND_TOOLS-Multi-NA-Feed-PLA-NA-NA-HandTools_PLA&cm_mmc=Shopping-B-F_D25T-G-D25T-25_1_HAND_TOOLS-Multi-NA-Feed-PLA-NA-NA-HandTools_PLA-71700000034127224-58700003933021546-92700049573927173&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI6rLWkY3S6QIVB77ACh341QA2EAYYASABEgLPFfD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
  • Create New...