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JeffM last won the day on January 19 2018

JeffM had the most liked content!

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  • Gender
  • Location
    SW Minnesota
  • Interests
    Woodworking, Leather working, and of course knife making
  1. JeffM

    7" chef

    Is that mustard patina or did you stone wash the blade???
  2. JeffM

    Seax Start to Finish

    For the most part I agree Vern...having my own heat treat oven....for normalizing, heat treating and tempering does give me a much more controlled environment than simply using my propane forge though...plus I got a lot of drops with material certs for literally pennies on the dollar so I can afford a few mistakes here and there...someday I will have to post pictures of my scrap heap of warped cracked broken burned melted and useless test projects....
  3. JeffM

    Issue Building a 2x72 belt grinder

    I ran into the same issue a while back. I went to a local machine shop and had them turn a stub of bar stock down to press fit into the 30 mm bore...then drilled out the stub for a 5/8" dia bolt
  4. JeffM

    Seax Start to Finish

    The only gross oversight mistake that I made was putting a sharpening groove at the back edge of the blade...so it's not a historically accurate broke back seax Aside from that...critique away 1095 Steel with 303 stainless fitting and Brazilian cherry handle...leather sheath made from scratch and designed to be a dangler
  5. JeffM

    Origin of the "Modern" Puukko?

    Thanks for all the details on pukko knives....Looks like I'm gonna have to add this one to my list of must try projects
  6. JeffM

    Wish me luck

    Good Luck
  7. JeffM

    Kentish notch?

    Check Owen Bush's website last I saw he had an example picture there
  8. JeffM


    Thanks for the info Alan... Looks like I'm kind of riddled with little mistakes and new learning curves on this project...
  9. JeffM


    Hi Jeroen Looking thru that seax powerpoint presentation I have a question on the the handle area and the leather sheath... were there any instances of doing carving on the handles?? And looking at the sheath examples in the presentation it looks like the blades were carried in the sheath with the sharp side facing up or is that simply the orientation for the pictures... right now I'm thinking about a folded and nailed brass piece on the edge side of the blade where the welt would be...and a couple of small d-ring loops with leather straps rivetted to the opposite side of the sheath so that it can be worn on a belt...
  10. JeffM

    Heat Treat Foil

    309 easily available at McMaster-Carr...$51.49 for a roll 12" wide x 120" long 321 easily available at McMaster $23.80 for a 10" wide roll x 120" long 18-8 easily available at McMaster $14.54 for a roll 6" wide x 50" long
  11. JeffM


    Jeroen I may never be as talented as you are but so far I think these 2 are shaping up pretty nice(the first one has been fun so I sad what the heck and started a 2nd one as well)....everything dry fits together good but way more polishing to do on the blade portion before I do a final assembly. Looking at the picture a little more closely it looks like the bottom seax should have the rear end of the handle reshaped so that it tapers downward to keep everything more in line with the spine of the blade (any thoughts on this Jeroen???) then it will be onto making leather sheaths and I'm sure to have more pesky questions
  12. JeffM

    kiln Q

    Hello Kreg What grade of stainless steel were you using???
  13. JeffM


    Hi Jeroen Thanks for the link. One detail I can't tell from looking at the pictures is if there was a welt strip sewn into the leather on the blade edge side so the stitching would not get cut thru I have enough brass and copper on hand to fold over an edge band similar to the pictures but I also see that nails are mentioned several times. I'm not familiar with nailing brass or copper to leather. Do I peen the ends over to bind the nails or use cutler style rivets in either copper or brass???
  14. JeffM


    Thanks for the input guys...I can definitely reshape the handle area and shorten it up....Polishing I can do...so I'll work on making it look like a rich mans carry piece (LOL considering I'm a poor man this should be fun) Can't do much about the ricasso area at this point but I already have it filed away for the future not to do that again... (UNLESS i could slide the hand farther forward and bury the ricasso...gonna have to ponder that idea) I think I can even raise that grind taper higher on the blade so it is more of a flat grind the entire blade height AND then for the grand finale I'll have to do some reading and looking for pictures of what a typical scabbard or sheath might look like for this type of knife... Doug no worries about critique....keep on pointing away....you probably have more experience in your little finger than what I have doing this
  15. JeffM

    Heat Treat Foil

    Question for all the people that spend time heat treating stainless steel blades When using a foil wrap from what I see the niche seems to be using 309 or 321 SS 0.002" thick. What difference would it make if you used something a little more readily available like 17-4 or 18-8 stainless steel foil in the same thickness?