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JeffM

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JeffM last won the day on January 19 2018

JeffM had the most liked content!

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    SW Minnesota
  • Interests
    Woodworking, Leather working, and of course knife making

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    ceitmfg@yahoo.com

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  1. If you want to go the stock removal route D2 would work but as others have said....it IS a tough material for a beginner to work with....I burned up a lot of man hours in the shop with D2 simply because I had several hundred pounds of scrap to work with that didn't cost me anything...once I settled on only using D2 for stock removal my workability improved immensely...during your learning curve you might want to consider either 1084 or 1075...much easier and more forgiving materials to start out with...
  2. Something seems a bit off here....what I have done in the past is to preheat to 1500 degrees for 5 minutes then bring it up to 1950 degrees for 15 minutes Tempering I use 350 degrees for 2 cycles at 2 hours per cycle. I would start by reducing your preheat temp...it could be as simple as too much heat too fast caused excessive grain growth. Also after forging you should consider and equalization cycle of 1350 degrees for 4-6 hours before going on to heat treat and tempering. As a cross reference I just checked Alpha Knife supply and their charts are pretty close to what I just posted h
  3. Good looking work Conner....it's fun watching you progress
  4. For me it would be a tanto knife with a mosaic damascus pattern simply because I have not made one yet...
  5. Alve it doesn't get any better than that....outstanding job
  6. it's too small you should just send it to me and make a larger billet
  7. get a good healthy down payment up front before you start the work...it helps alleviate the scammy feeling...
  8. The wise guy in me says if you don't like the W...go for D2
  9. Hi Gerhard The only consistent success I have had with walnut and walnut burl is to stabilize it first...then do the shaping and polishing.... I have also used boiled linseed oil and tung oil with results that wide spread and in some cases completely not what I wanted
  10. stabilized white oak makes some excellent knife scales...
  11. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Stark-0-to-99-9-Humidity-Tester-Digital-Wood-Moisture-Meter-2-Pins-14013/311022733?mtc=Shopping-B-F_D25T-G-D25T-25_1_HAND_TOOLS-Multi-NA-Feed-PLA-NA-NA-HandTools_PLA&cm_mmc=Shopping-B-F_D25T-G-D25T-25_1_HAND_TOOLS-Multi-NA-Feed-PLA-NA-NA-HandTools_PLA-71700000034127224-58700003933021546-92700049573927173&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI6rLWkY3S6QIVB77ACh341QA2EAYYASABEgLPFfD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
  12. set your sheath for a 45 degree carry and you should be able to eliminate the retention snap...Attached is a picture as an example
  13. how is the airgraver different than what I would normally use....(ie....dremel tool and bits)????
  14. Hate to be the bearer of bad news but that looks like paki-mascus...the hole in the middle is delamination from not being properly forge welded in essence you bought bad product...made in a foreign country...imported cheaply and not meant as a real cutting implement...
  15. starting with known variables is always best with un-stabilized wood...a good moisture meter is pretty much a necessity in my view...you can try making a small kiln drying box using a 100 watt light bulb to slowly remove excess moisture...I have also used a small convection oven set at 100 degrees with a thermometer set inside to slowly remove moisture...another thing to consider is was your epoxy fully 100% cured when you started shaping and forming....if not those little transitions you noted could be the result of your epoxy contracting as it fully cures out...
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