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JeffM

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Everything posted by JeffM

  1. Alve it doesn't get any better than that....outstanding job
  2. it's too small you should just send it to me and make a larger billet
  3. get a good healthy down payment up front before you start the work...it helps alleviate the scammy feeling...
  4. The wise guy in me says if you don't like the W...go for D2
  5. Hi Gerhard The only consistent success I have had with walnut and walnut burl is to stabilize it first...then do the shaping and polishing.... I have also used boiled linseed oil and tung oil with results that wide spread and in some cases completely not what I wanted
  6. stabilized white oak makes some excellent knife scales...
  7. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Stark-0-to-99-9-Humidity-Tester-Digital-Wood-Moisture-Meter-2-Pins-14013/311022733?mtc=Shopping-B-F_D25T-G-D25T-25_1_HAND_TOOLS-Multi-NA-Feed-PLA-NA-NA-HandTools_PLA&cm_mmc=Shopping-B-F_D25T-G-D25T-25_1_HAND_TOOLS-Multi-NA-Feed-PLA-NA-NA-HandTools_PLA-71700000034127224-58700003933021546-92700049573927173&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI6rLWkY3S6QIVB77ACh341QA2EAYYASABEgLPFfD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
  8. set your sheath for a 45 degree carry and you should be able to eliminate the retention snap...Attached is a picture as an example
  9. how is the airgraver different than what I would normally use....(ie....dremel tool and bits)????
  10. Hate to be the bearer of bad news but that looks like paki-mascus...the hole in the middle is delamination from not being properly forge welded in essence you bought bad product...made in a foreign country...imported cheaply and not meant as a real cutting implement...
  11. starting with known variables is always best with un-stabilized wood...a good moisture meter is pretty much a necessity in my view...you can try making a small kiln drying box using a 100 watt light bulb to slowly remove excess moisture...I have also used a small convection oven set at 100 degrees with a thermometer set inside to slowly remove moisture...another thing to consider is was your epoxy fully 100% cured when you started shaping and forming....if not those little transitions you noted could be the result of your epoxy contracting as it fully cures out...
  12. With all the pandemic stuff floating around I decided to go back to old school knife making and after forging out a blank from 5160 I pulled out my long un-used file jig. Not really sure I like the butt end of the handle but I have plenty of time to revise and refine....I do like the way the false edge and blade profile are turning out. What changes and modifications would you guys make???
  13. Alan the guy in Arizona took hydroxychloroquine phosphate which is a sterilizing agent for aquarium tanks....he totally miss fired and ignored the phosphate part... Chemical information can be very tricky if you don't know all the ingredients....the sad part is he died from it...
  14. Just my 2 cents on this subject I would plan on localizing sales efforts knowing that down sizing is simply going to be a fact of life during this pandemic issue. Possibly diversify and write articles for online publications in addition to hands on work Network with every conceivable source to broaden your horizons to other avenues such as woodworking groups for sharp tools leather groups for not only sheaths but items like blacksmith aprons etc... Life has probably given you an abundance of knowledge that you need to dust off and apply to other areas as you diversify.
  15. Amazing work....if I was a sword collector I would definitely want that in my collection
  16. Looking at this test results I would say the wire you have is mild steel with a zinc coating / galvanized wire
  17. you could also use a combination of 304 / D2 tool steel with the high Chromium content D2 is normally referred to as a semi-stainless material
  18. Have you considered starting with a 3 layer san mai billet to get you feet wet with forge welding then work your way up into more layers???
  19. Alan with very punky slabs it's best to stabilize it add for additional color you can add some dye to the cactus juice. even with wood as soft as you have described it should be no problem to stabilize the wood... The spalted boxelder / cedar / spalted pecan scales were all so soft you could break them with your fingernail before stabilizing...now they are all hard as a rock almost like synthetic stone
  20. This weekend was all about leather work and getting caught up on some past due projects
  21. On a metal ironworker don't try to retrofit a manual ironworker unless you like metal parts breaking and flying around...on the hydraulic version you're limited by throat depth
  22. https://www.automationdirect.com/adc/shopping/catalog/drives_-a-_soft_starters/ac_variable_frequency_drives_(vfd)/micro/drive_units/cfw100c04p2s220g2 VFD similar to the link attached will do the job for you...single phase input
  23. what type of wood??? Also, before I stabilize wood I have it air dry for 8-10 months before I slice it into scales and stabilize the wood Shutting off the vacuum is what allows the cactus juice to go into the wood pores where air and moisture were eliminated during the vacuum cycle it is not like starting over Your process as described seems correct...but you must have a high moisture content in the wood or it is extremely porous soft wood
  24. Overall looks good minor tweaks based on personal preferences but the big question is how does it feel in your hand...can you reverse the knife direction comfortably without any loss of grip....and no less important are you happy with what it looks like....
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