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Everything posted by JeffM

  1. I am a manufacturing manager for heavy industrial equipment by day...and a part time blade smith / leather worker. When I'm not hammering / grinding on steel or making the associated leather work I'm usually either working in my garden or hunting and fishing. I'm an avid reader with over 2000 books in my personal library...and last but far from least I am a devoted husband / father / grandfather....
  2. At first blush after reading this I would say you need to clean your steel from contamination....acetone rags and a scrub brush are your friend when you're starting your billets. the other thing I notice is you didn't identify which 2+ types of steel you are trying to forge weld together...not all types of steel play nice with each other
  3. I've run into this several times....the blades are NOT actually made in the UAE...they are imported to the UAE from Pakistan or China. Then in turn they are pushed thru the marketplace at lowball prices....You see the same thing with a lot of damascus blades shipping from England they also are imports from Pakistan and China... What it really comes down to is a cheap attempt at masking the point of origin for where the blades were made because it's widely known that Pakistan and China both use poor quality steel and in some cases they completely mis-represent what actual steel was used to create the blade At several knife and gun shows that I attend there is always a lowball damascus dealer that sells cheap imports...I constantly hear comments about why are my blades 200-300 dollars for damascus steel when they can walk a couple booths down and buy a damascus blade knife for 85-100 dollars....constantly drives me nuts..... Just my two cents worth on the subject
  4. either O1 or D2 and I agree with Garry Keown scandi grind
  5. Picture in the middle is my 2nd knife ever made....the first is way too ugly to show.... the damascus knife on the left is my latest creation...and the one on the right is somewhere in the middle completed about 3-4 years ago
  6. either trace amounts of ferric chloride or acetone...degraded the rubber and made it gooey....been there done that....also wrecked a pair of steel toed boots that way...spilled some ferric chloride on the concrete shop floor....didn't really pay much attention walked thru it...and about 2 weeks later the rubber soles of my boots disintegrated
  7. just a heads up...A36 steel is low carbon steel and will not harden
  8. If you want to go the stock removal route D2 would work but as others have said....it IS a tough material for a beginner to work with....I burned up a lot of man hours in the shop with D2 simply because I had several hundred pounds of scrap to work with that didn't cost me anything...once I settled on only using D2 for stock removal my workability improved immensely...during your learning curve you might want to consider either 1084 or 1075...much easier and more forgiving materials to start out with...
  9. Something seems a bit off here....what I have done in the past is to preheat to 1500 degrees for 5 minutes then bring it up to 1950 degrees for 15 minutes Tempering I use 350 degrees for 2 cycles at 2 hours per cycle. I would start by reducing your preheat temp...it could be as simple as too much heat too fast caused excessive grain growth. Also after forging you should consider and equalization cycle of 1350 degrees for 4-6 hours before going on to heat treat and tempering. As a cross reference I just checked Alpha Knife supply and their charts are pretty close to what I just posted here but I didn't see any reference to an equalization in their data
  10. Good looking work Conner....it's fun watching you progress
  11. For me it would be a tanto knife with a mosaic damascus pattern simply because I have not made one yet...
  12. Alve it doesn't get any better than that....outstanding job
  13. it's too small you should just send it to me and make a larger billet
  14. get a good healthy down payment up front before you start the work...it helps alleviate the scammy feeling...
  15. The wise guy in me says if you don't like the W...go for D2
  16. Hi Gerhard The only consistent success I have had with walnut and walnut burl is to stabilize it first...then do the shaping and polishing.... I have also used boiled linseed oil and tung oil with results that wide spread and in some cases completely not what I wanted
  17. stabilized white oak makes some excellent knife scales...
  18. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Stark-0-to-99-9-Humidity-Tester-Digital-Wood-Moisture-Meter-2-Pins-14013/311022733?mtc=Shopping-B-F_D25T-G-D25T-25_1_HAND_TOOLS-Multi-NA-Feed-PLA-NA-NA-HandTools_PLA&cm_mmc=Shopping-B-F_D25T-G-D25T-25_1_HAND_TOOLS-Multi-NA-Feed-PLA-NA-NA-HandTools_PLA-71700000034127224-58700003933021546-92700049573927173&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI6rLWkY3S6QIVB77ACh341QA2EAYYASABEgLPFfD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
  19. set your sheath for a 45 degree carry and you should be able to eliminate the retention snap...Attached is a picture as an example
  20. how is the airgraver different than what I would normally use....(ie....dremel tool and bits)????
  21. Hate to be the bearer of bad news but that looks like paki-mascus...the hole in the middle is delamination from not being properly forge welded in essence you bought bad product...made in a foreign country...imported cheaply and not meant as a real cutting implement...
  22. starting with known variables is always best with un-stabilized wood...a good moisture meter is pretty much a necessity in my view...you can try making a small kiln drying box using a 100 watt light bulb to slowly remove excess moisture...I have also used a small convection oven set at 100 degrees with a thermometer set inside to slowly remove moisture...another thing to consider is was your epoxy fully 100% cured when you started shaping and forming....if not those little transitions you noted could be the result of your epoxy contracting as it fully cures out...
  23. With all the pandemic stuff floating around I decided to go back to old school knife making and after forging out a blank from 5160 I pulled out my long un-used file jig. Not really sure I like the butt end of the handle but I have plenty of time to revise and refine....I do like the way the false edge and blade profile are turning out. What changes and modifications would you guys make???
  24. Alan the guy in Arizona took hydroxychloroquine phosphate which is a sterilizing agent for aquarium tanks....he totally miss fired and ignored the phosphate part... Chemical information can be very tricky if you don't know all the ingredients....the sad part is he died from it...
  25. Just my 2 cents on this subject I would plan on localizing sales efforts knowing that down sizing is simply going to be a fact of life during this pandemic issue. Possibly diversify and write articles for online publications in addition to hands on work Network with every conceivable source to broaden your horizons to other avenues such as woodworking groups for sharp tools leather groups for not only sheaths but items like blacksmith aprons etc... Life has probably given you an abundance of knowledge that you need to dust off and apply to other areas as you diversify... Above all else make sure you focus on keeping depression at bay and stay positive....In time this will all just be a part of history... I suspect a lot of us will be enduring lifestyle changes and challenges going forward
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