Zeb Camper

Thanks Wes. I'm not a huge fan of it now either I wish I had brought the lines from base of the handle all the way to the guard. Also, I wish I had radiused the wood where it meets the guard. But, just like anything... I'll get it next time!

You sure make a fine handle!

Really like your stitching in that leather.

Well, here they are sorry for the grainy cell phone pics.

I don't harden the tang. It gets work hardened when you peen it. You can only peen so much before it tries to slpit on ya.

I really like falcata #2!

I know you're probably getting tired of my 2 cents. But as far as constuction goes, how do you plan to keep the butt cap on? Peened through tang? A half tang with vertical pins going into the handle parrallel to the tang? Countersunk nut on the threaded tang? Drilled hole through the buttcap and tang with a pin ran through?As far as steel goes, I think I would do 1084, but that's just me. I am very good at heat treating the 10xx family, so I'm sticking to them. Honestly I think both steels are going to perform about the same on a blade of this stature. There's no way you could swing this thing hard enough to do any real damage to the blade (if heat treated correctly) so, I think the added toughness will not be noticed. Also, you're primarily cutting meat, so it doesn't need to be a wonder steel. But, if you have the steel, why not use it I guess? I admire that you're actually planning this out. I used to just try to make knives with no plan what so ever.

I really like the shapes, but it might be getting too big. We are now well within the territory of a deer hunting knife. I could see a less specialized knife like this being more handy though.

And I just read back through what I wrote. I needed to be more clear. when your hammering the tang below the ricasso with the base of the ricasso hanging off the anvil, you have to flip the blade often to keep the tang centered. Hope this makes sense.

The only tools I use for my hidden tangs are several hammers of different weights and the anvil. It is trickier this way, but you can do it to the same result as the fullering tool. I would have to write a book explaining how. I sort of did a while back. I just use the anvil edges.Here's the post I attemped to explain how to do it. A fullering tool will make it waaaay easier though. Just saying if you have no good access to scrap metal or a welder, this is a good alternative.

Good Idea about the choil getting in the way. It's just like me to throw any thought of practicality to the wind. Heres another thought towards practicallity: I had a guy want me to make him a bird and trout knife a while ago. I could tell he wasn't seriouse, and he ultimately flaked on the deal. But, he wanted a lanyard hole. He said when you are dressing the animal, it is easy to have the knife hanging from your wrist during certain parts where it requires both hands. He wanted the blade no longer than 2". I had a very hard time designing a knife that small to be attractive. Something to think about anyways.

wahh wah wahhhhh (<--- Sad trumpet noise). Here's my chickenfish 2.0 (I don't use numerical classifacations ). I added a topigraphical view of the extended handle. It's actually smaller than your design. I think It would be comfortable too.

I started just drawing the guard, but I could'nt help myself I finished the drawing. This Is how I would do it I think. Take whatever you want from this design (or take none of it I don't care). sorry for the crappy pic. I just got in the car.

Somehow I always log on right when you make a post. I like mk4. I think the guard is in need of some more shaping. I'll have to do a quick doodle of what I mean. Does mark 4 have a butt cap thing? Not sure If I can call it a pommel.

I just did this little adjustment on my phone. I think maybe ditch the finger groove and instead go for a very slight palm swell. So, contrary to my poor drawing it would'nt get bigger in the back, but sort of flow into the guard better.